Archive through January 18, 2009
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junderwood
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- John Underwood
Art,
I second Matt's suggestion. Drill a hole a little bigger diameter than the slot is wide. This will reduce the stress riser at the end of the slot and should keep it from trying to crack. Looks like a nice fix though.
I second Matt's suggestion. Drill a hole a little bigger diameter than the slot is wide. This will reduce the stress riser at the end of the slot and should keep it from trying to crack. Looks like a nice fix though.
Matt S
The starter generators were painted yellow because they were supplied installed on the engine, by Kohler, and were painted yellow by IH when the engine was painted. When IH "discovered" they could buy the S/G from Delco cheaper than paying Kohler to buy them (about the wide frame model era), the S/G color was black as received from Delco, and was installed on the IH painted, yellow engine.
Andrew Coffee
The 70, 71, 72, 73 all originally came with a K-161 7 hp engine.
Art
I am interested in how that steering arm mod holds up over time. In the past it has always been frowned upon to use a bolt in the arm rather than the coiled spring pin, because the bolt caused increased wear to the hole in the spindle - something to do with the lack of tension that was present when the spirol pin was used, that one of the engineers on here will have to explain.
The starter generators were painted yellow because they were supplied installed on the engine, by Kohler, and were painted yellow by IH when the engine was painted. When IH "discovered" they could buy the S/G from Delco cheaper than paying Kohler to buy them (about the wide frame model era), the S/G color was black as received from Delco, and was installed on the IH painted, yellow engine.
Andrew Coffee
The 70, 71, 72, 73 all originally came with a K-161 7 hp engine.
Art
I am interested in how that steering arm mod holds up over time. In the past it has always been frowned upon to use a bolt in the arm rather than the coiled spring pin, because the bolt caused increased wear to the hole in the spindle - something to do with the lack of tension that was present when the spirol pin was used, that one of the engineers on here will have to explain.
kide
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- Gerry Ide
Art:
For others considering the same, a thin kerf cutoff wheel on a die grinder would be a good tool to consider for making the slot... I agree with Matt on drilling a hole at the end of the slot in the arm.
This mod changes the arm to being dependent on the clamping force rather than the shearing resistance of the roll pin, so a grade 8 bolt and nut torqued to the max would seem to be mandatory, since any slippage of the arm on the spindle will put you back in the current situation.
For others considering the same, a thin kerf cutoff wheel on a die grinder would be a good tool to consider for making the slot... I agree with Matt on drilling a hole at the end of the slot in the arm.
This mod changes the arm to being dependent on the clamping force rather than the shearing resistance of the roll pin, so a grade 8 bolt and nut torqued to the max would seem to be mandatory, since any slippage of the arm on the spindle will put you back in the current situation.
JERRY B. - Don't know if I'd say I have an "IN" @ MWSC but I have called & talked to Julian & His Wife a couple times ordering parts. He really knows His Cubbies.
On the vibration of anb out-of-balance engine...Yes, the ball main bearings in the Kohler will survive but the rest of the tractro may not. The K301 in the 129 when I got it was missing 3-4 of the 12 fins on the flywheel when I got it....all in a row. It vibrated a LOT. It wallowed the threads out of the alum. oil pan where it bolted to the frame, and the four bolts that attached the steering colume to the frame, the metal fatiqued and I had to have Dad braze on some reinforcing plates. New flywheel, blower housing, etc and all was fine.
On the vibration of anb out-of-balance engine...Yes, the ball main bearings in the Kohler will survive but the rest of the tractro may not. The K301 in the 129 when I got it was missing 3-4 of the 12 fins on the flywheel when I got it....all in a row. It vibrated a LOT. It wallowed the threads out of the alum. oil pan where it bolted to the frame, and the four bolts that attached the steering colume to the frame, the metal fatiqued and I had to have Dad braze on some reinforcing plates. New flywheel, blower housing, etc and all was fine.
hello guys we got about 6 inches of snow last night i got to try out my snow blower it is a lot of fun works great i have the blower on my 126 an i did the driveway a lot faster with the blower the with the plow an the o the o is gonna be my back up now even thoe its only a 36 inch cut it works great i see what you guys mean by the blower a lot nicer
mstetar
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- Matt (Diesel Creek)
i thought the S/N on the O in the ad said "67", which would make it the lowest s/n i've herd of, but wait wasnt there a #1 original found in a crate in a shipping container a while back??? Kraig do you know what im talking about? i think someone said it had a hand made dash tower
Went to a farm show here in Florida and picked up another Original. I was shopping for a mower deck to go with my green one, which I plan to restore in the red and white, and found the yellow one. Runs good and even has fenders. The mower deck is in pretty poor shape. The spindles seem to be pretty good though. I have a friend that can bend up the new metal for the deck, so it should be mowing before summer hits.
I am also looking for the front cover that goes in front of the mule pulleys and two sets of factory type stickers. Where can I get these?
I am also looking for the front cover that goes in front of the mule pulleys and two sets of factory type stickers. Where can I get these?
Sorry, but the "O" in the ad is not one of the test tractors, and there were only 25, not 100. The hole in the pedestal is down where the steering box is, and appears someone made it to allow adjusting the steering. The hour meters on the test tractors was near the center of the pedestal, similar to what is shown in the pictures of S/N 510 (w/hr meter) and 518 (w/out hr meter). If he has an offer of what he says, he should take it and run. It just appears to be a run of the mill Cub Cadet "O" to me. IH started the S/N's (of everything) at 501, or 401 in the case of some prototypes, and the Cub Cadet test units were S/N 501-525. S/N's 526 to 589 were built to get the assembly lines up and running to to establish piecework prices, and production began with S/N 590. Cub Cadet S/N did not start over with 501 at each model change, but ran consecutively.
There was some pictures of a first model Cub Cadet in a shipping container at I believe Navistar International, but it was just an Original, and was not the first one or S/N 501 as was first reported, but had a much later S/N. I cannot remember what S/N it was right now, but I have it some place and will try to find it. I believe the pictures came from Hank Will.
There was some pictures of a first model Cub Cadet in a shipping container at I believe Navistar International, but it was just an Original, and was not the first one or S/N 501 as was first reported, but had a much later S/N. I cannot remember what S/N it was right now, but I have it some place and will try to find it. I believe the pictures came from Hank Will.
fcurrier
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- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
I led friends in Connecticut to the site and promised them a pic of current, 4th in a row day of record low temps.
Not a mosquito or blackfly in sight!
Anybody need a trailer load of snow?
Not a mosquito or blackfly in sight!
Anybody need a trailer load of snow?
Brennan,
Nice O.2 of them huh nice!!
Frank,
Ill take that truck load of snow!!!!Kids would love it.
Is a 3 point lift the same on the 70 as the on the 123??
They look the same,numbers seem to be the same in the parts look up above.I get 384674 R91 for the part# for the "kit" for the 70 but cant find a part# for the "kit" for the 123.
I just wanted confirmation from the experts!!
Thanks
Nice O.2 of them huh nice!!
Frank,
Ill take that truck load of snow!!!!Kids would love it.
Is a 3 point lift the same on the 70 as the on the 123??
They look the same,numbers seem to be the same in the parts look up above.I get 384674 R91 for the part# for the "kit" for the 70 but cant find a part# for the "kit" for the 123.
I just wanted confirmation from the experts!!
Thanks
PAUL - Couple other first serial numbers IH used were 7501 for 1206's I think it was, 70,001 for LVL Super M's, made from FARMALL supplied parts, and Super M-TA's used a different starting number but I can't remember what it was right now, amy have been 60,001. Like EVERYTHING about IH, They were inconsistent in their consistency. But You still gotta LOVE what they did!
I agree with You on that early CC, If He has a $5600 bid He better sell it and FAST.
I agree with You on that early CC, If He has a $5600 bid He better sell it and FAST.
Well darn!
The picture that I'm looking for is prolly on my work puter. I'm looking for the pic that shows the dimensions needed to cut the fender brackets and the seat bracket to allow for a rear PTO lever. Does anyone have that pic or dimensions?
I could prolly figure it out on my own, but I thought this would be easier.
Of coarse I'm talkin' about a roundy fendered Cub Cadet.
The picture that I'm looking for is prolly on my work puter. I'm looking for the pic that shows the dimensions needed to cut the fender brackets and the seat bracket to allow for a rear PTO lever. Does anyone have that pic or dimensions?
I could prolly figure it out on my own, but I thought this would be easier.
Of coarse I'm talkin' about a roundy fendered Cub Cadet.
The ser# for that original is 630.Is this a rare one???It is a low one,but from reading what paul wrote below the #s started at 501.And 401 if its a prototype,So its not a prototype???
I Emailed him and asked!!He actually promptly returned the Email,maybe he dosent quite understand what he has??Or maybe its just worth "that much" to him!!
I Emailed him and asked!!He actually promptly returned the Email,maybe he dosent quite understand what he has??Or maybe its just worth "that much" to him!!
cleaned up the dash for the 70 a bit , boy does that metal get thin over the years!!
I got the new frame for the #1 123 a few weeks ago.It is in beautiful overall shape compered to the original frame.Except during shipping the frame rail near where the engine is bolted was tweaked ever so slightly,easy fix with a rubber mallet!!The tweak exposed a crack where the support for the front axel mounts to.You cant realy see the crack now that Ive knocked the frame back.
Have any of you welded this type of crack?Any suggestions? the crack is on both sides of the support bracket and a bit across the top. Thanks Guys
I got the new frame for the #1 123 a few weeks ago.It is in beautiful overall shape compered to the original frame.Except during shipping the frame rail near where the engine is bolted was tweaked ever so slightly,easy fix with a rubber mallet!!The tweak exposed a crack where the support for the front axel mounts to.You cant realy see the crack now that Ive knocked the frame back.
Have any of you welded this type of crack?Any suggestions? the crack is on both sides of the support bracket and a bit across the top. Thanks Guys
