Archive through January 16, 2012

[kshultz]

Richard W.
Nevermind!

I read the other posts below.

 

[dfrisk]

RICHARD T. - re Neil M's timing problem. You're probably correct, the soft aluminum points push rod would wear shorter in use causing the points to not open as much effecting engine timing. The OEM push rod was aluminum to prevent wearing a groove in the lobe on the camshaft. Even with wear on the push rod and a little wear on the cam lobe you should be able to get a Kohler timed correctly.

Resetting the point gap or replacing the points & condensor, and probably the spark plug (Chanmpion H10C or equivalent) should get his K301 running good again.

Many different ways to set point gap & timing on a Kohler in a Cub Cadet. I installed a new set of points & condensor in my K321 last summer, set the engine at the timing mark, slipped the .020" feeler gauge between the points contacts and installed them. Then started the engine and checkied timing with my timing light and the timing was spot on the mark. Now on my Onan B48G in my 982 there isn't even timing marks you can get to without engine removal so point gap is the only way to time them.

 

[kfreeman]

Richard W.,

Thanks for the pics!

Does the 1-1/2" tubing fit? I am sure that my muffler outlet is smaller than that.

 

[lpalma]

Jeremiah,
Here is what I have,as you can see the qa pins are bent outwards.The distance between the holes in the mule drive are 10.250

 

[dtanner]

Jeremiah Chamberlin
All the Cubs I bought had sub frames for there mower decks. I hope I will have no issues when my 125 has the 42" deck put on to mow grass.If it does not work I will have to get hold of the brick layer lol.

Well Kraig

I hate the 125 !

. I`am putting the steering box back into it and well I did connect the rod for the neutral rod that gets neutral when the brake is applied before I install the steering box.I see I won`t be restoring many narrow frames !

. my hands are way to big and there ain`t much room there to move around.I`am thinking this 125 will take over for my craps man that now has piston knock and has 16 years mowing behind it. I have to take off some parts to get the bolt tight on the inside steering box (Brake rod).This 125 is not going to get the refurb I think it deserves, because I can`t do it any more .bummer

 

[aaytay]

Don-

Quote: "I hate the 125!"

'Nuff said! LOL!

 

[kmcconaughey]

 

[dpbauer]

I need a clarification: does the cc123 and cc125 hydro tranny have a creeper gearset or not? What exactly does the adjustor lever (right side, small arm poking out of frame, held in place with metal flat plate) attached to the tranny DO? When would I need to flip it and which direction (up or down)?

sorry for the newbie question but there is a MIRE or misinformation out there in and amoungst the web! Thanks peoples, danWI

 

[dfrisk]

DAN - No "creeper" needed with a Hydro like the 123 & 125.

The lever on the side is the release lever for the check valves so you can push the tractor around. Typically the hydro tractors are VERY hard to push because the wheels are running the hydro gear train fast. Releasing the check valves makes them easier to move.

There's all kinds of cautions for pushing/towing hydro's in the operator's manuals. As a general rule, Don;t push/tow very far or very fast.

 

[dtanner]

Dan Bauer

Only gear drives would have the (a creeper gearset ) .

the small arm is for the hydro release vales so you can push the tractor when it is not running.

Denny is to fast for me. What denny said Dan

 

[dpbauer]

Don-

Thank you so much! It appears then my shifting problem is elsewhere. I'll keep looking, danWI

 

[dtanner]

Dan

No problems ask away ,thats is what this place is here for.


In all there wisdom IH could have moved the hydro neutral lever just a bit so I could get a wrench on this bolt a little easier lol.

Well I just had to vent! lol

 

[dfrisk]

DON - That's not even a HARD bolt to get to. You ever tried to install/remove the capscrews for the front foot rest mounts on a 70/100/71/72/73? Think they're 5/16" NC cap screws about an inch long. With the bottom lip of the frame you can't use a combination wrench, a short socket is too short, and a deep well socket is too long. Craftsman makes a "mid-length socket I haven't tried yet but I think it would work.

DAN - What kind of hydro problems are you having?

"Shifting" hydro is pretty simple but there's lots of pieces involved, and on a NF like a 123 & 125 you'll have DON's problem, working from underneath the tractor.

 

[dtanner]

Denny
The 125 is sitting on four wheels now.some times a longer nut comes in handy,and I replace them as necessary . I have a full set of Craftsman sockets that I bought years ago , sum 240 piece set std metric in each single hex and both leg th .good tools are worth the money.I`am awful lucky I guess with all these great tractors. I love to give my friends some seat time when they are over, next time they come over they get yellow fever . You can see it in there eyes . They ask to take a tractor out for a run.I usually have 6 with batteries and running. Carb cleaning is a bitch to keep them running when I can`t drive them all and have a few favorites lol.

 

[cpellenz]

Hello all,
Im new to the forum and wanted to say hello and introduce myself. My name is Chris from central NY near Syracuse. Im somewhat of a tractor head and kinda new to the IH Cub world... I have 7 Allis Chalmers built 3 and 400 series tractors with many implements... tiller, revitalizer, composter, sickle mower, moldboard, cultivator, multiple mower decks and snowblowers...

My dad is an IH guy from way back... and currently has a red 1282 that my grandfather originally purchased on trade from his previous IH cub and likely one before that as well....

Im quite interested in his machine and expanding its capabilities. I have a good amount of experience with the K series engines...

Hopefully Im posting in the right place...
my understanding is that the 1282 is a garden tractor and I believe it is an "early" serial #
with the cast rear end... if im in the wrong place please help me out... Im sure Ill eventually get it!

Initially, Im interested in what blowers would fit on this tractor then learn what other specific implements were designed for this tractor... as well as rear pto and rear hitch
info as well...

If there is a reference section here Id appriciate the heads up as I dont wanna waste questions that are redundant.

so, HI ALL!!

Chris

Ill get a pic of the 1282 for you... but here is a pic of my first GT... AC310 w/ tiller...

 

[astrawderman]

Hi chris, nice allis chalmers

 

[jchamberlin]

Chris: I think the place to post the Allis-Chalmers is in the OT Tractor section, the Forum moderator, Charlie Proctor, I'm sure would take exception to posting it here, although I think moderator Kraig McConaughey has an Allis-Chalmers like yours.

Also, the main forum is reserved for Pre-81 Cub Cadets, whether or not they have cast iron rear-ends; your machine might need to be posted in the CCC/MTD section.

Finally, our main reference section around here is the FAQ accessible from the top of the page. From there you will find a link to a second FAQ page which has some really valuable, technical, information. You might also want to check out the Machine Shop thread.

I hope you survive the "initiation" period and post regularly, we need all the enthusiasm we can get.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Chris P., WELCOME!

The 1282 was built by CCC not <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT>, so posts regarding it should be in the CCC and MTD Machines & Equipment forum area.

The Allis Chalmers that I have is a 1973, model 620 with a loader and rear CAT-0 3 point.

 

[thoffman]

Chris "P",
Don't be scared away from her. Once you figure us out (I'm still working on it) we're all pretty good guys

 

[nbartee]

Just wondering, what physically happens when you do push/pull a hydro?