Archive through January 06, 2009

[dtanner]

Wes H, thanks is what we are doing.we have half the pin out and we driving a nail to clear the hole out.A cotter key is what i was going to use lol, i don`t have a supply of roll pins yet. Thanks for putting me on the right track.

Roger M ,BTW, the S/G is 15 amp according to specs and the ammeter is only 10 amp.
Now is the time to use one of the boxes above and get a rebuild kit for the S/G, but thats just my .02 Later Don T
who said this pin would be hard to remove. What a bear it is. Have to take breaks to keep from useing the BIG hammer

 

[dtanner]

Roger M , we all break , even a s/g . you have to start somewhere. Have a great day Later Don T

 

[rmunro]

Ron.

The S/G was a rebuilt I bought last May. And, the fluctuations were there before and after installing it. The old S/G had the rear bushing and end plate messed up.

Yes Ron, the winch is wired directly to the battery.


The reason I was wondering about the ammeter, is that the only connection I can see from the regulator to the battery is through the ammeter.

I also noted that once the ammeter never moved when I turned the ignition on, and it does normally. The 2nd time I tried it it did.

 

[rmunro]

Doug.

Yes, I have tested voltage, and when charging runs just over 14.

It could well be the brushes, that was a thought I had. I will check them.

To you and Ron, and Don. Thank you kindly for your advice. much appreciated.

 

[dtanner]

You guys are great.the 149 now will plow snow. a galv nail will do until i order some pins.Later Don T

 

[kwarwick]

Hey guys.Is there a difference between the hydro drive in a 1250 abd a 1450?.Is one heavier or stronger?.Thanks-Keith W.

 

[rrschmitt]

Keith W,

The basic transmissions are the same. A 1450 would have a ported hydro pump for the hydraulic lift feature which was a standard for both the 1450 and 1650's. A 1250 would have a non-ported hydro pump unless the hydraulic lift was added as an option.

 

[fcurrier]

Jared Carson: (from Wantin'/Lookin') I used one of these from Motion Industries. Under $10, if I remember right.

 

[sstanton]

Martin, you need to post "for sale" stuff in the classifieds

 

[sstanton]

Tomorrow I will: Get the plow on the right way, do the rear tires air pressure, and not worry about friday, till friday!

 

[mstetar]

Don T. do you ever use your O??? in every pic of your shop I've seen it always has junk piled on it.... I bet he feels neglected!

 

[aschmidt]

Trunion repair parts are done. here are the steps.


1. Remove fenders. Mark line at 1.20" from the outside

2. Cut at line

3. Position new part and springs in position. Good time to contact Charlie and get osme new springs right away.

4. Tack into place - making sure part is level with tractor.

5. Final weld on top side.

Ive made a good bunch to start. contact me if you need one or ten! Of course you could do this out of the tractor, this is the simple and quick way. Next one I will tig weld on top and bottom.

 

[thoffman]

Art,
OK here's the big question.............How fast did it go????

 

[rchristensen]

Aaron S. I don't want to rain on your parade, but I don't see the benefit of cutting off the bracket and welding on another piece.

You still need to weld the bracket and wind up doing more welding than if you just weld in the worn places and file down.

Just my .02 cents, I may be missing something.

 

[fcurrier]

Richard: I don't weld. (Well, maybe a little JB now and then). To me, this will allow guys like me to do the prep work, probably with the tractor already on a trailer, take it to the nearest available welder, zip, zip, he's done so fast he'd be embarassed to charge me anything!

 

[aaytay]

Tom-
I'm not telling....

 

[aschmidt]

By the way, once the fenders are off, it took me 8 minutes to mark, cut (with a grinder), line up and weld. You can do this without taking the hydro cam bracket off and not heat up the springs if your careful. Its just my solution to a quick fix and your done. One i fixed by welding in the worn areas and filing down with a file and it took me forever. The new parts are a little thicker than stock so they will last longer, and because they are laser cut, they have a small amount of heat treating around all the edges.

 

[kwarwick]

Thanks Ron-I think I will go for the 1450 because I may need the hydraulics later.Keith W.

 

[cmastin]

What was the last year/model a hor. shaft gear drive cub cadet was made with a cast rear?

 

[dtanner]

Matt Stetar (Mstetar),
Don T. do you ever use your O??? in every pic of your shop I've seen it always has junk piled on it.... I bet he feels neglected!
Matt S .i have 2 Originals and a total of 8Cub Cadets as stated in my profile. I use the O that you see for mowing grass , so this time of year it just sit in my heated garage waiting for spring so i can put a restored deck on it and use it for mowing again.i have bought head lights and a tail light to install and a decal kit but have other Cubs that come first for repair and paint.the only thing my O needs is the clutch disk resurfaced and i just had the removal tool made last week. The O will get her turn as will all i hope.



what you see is the rear fenders for my 129 loader since the O will be painted also i`am not worried about a scratch. I`am sanding the fenders to smooth out the sand blast areas before paint.
my shop is 28x30 and as you can see (you can`t build a shop that is big enuf) LOL later Don T