Archive through January 05, 2014

[nbextermueller]

Holy Crap Dennis!

Thanks for that. I'll have to remember to get that SAE 30 out of my engine for winter. That stuff was like cold tar!

5w-30 full synthetic, here I come!

I wonder what Hytran locks like at -35 C* ( like -10 or so F*)

 

[kmcconaughey]

Denny,

 

[kfreeman]

Here is the engine oil specification table from the 1975 Quiet Line Operator's Manual. Why does IH recommend against multi-grade oils above +32 degrees?

Wouldn't a full synthetic 10W-30 be a good year round oil? I don't see using the tractor below +20 degrees.

 

[dtanner]

I did get something tractor related for Christmas .

This will sit on my shop come spring. To cold now to mount it lol.

 

[dkirk]

Ken,

The reason 10W-30 was not recommended by IH (and Kohler) for operation above 32 deg F was an increase in oil consumption. The temperature-viscosity relationship with modern synthetic oils is much more "honest" than that of older, multi-vis oils. Thus the answer to your question is yes, you can safely run a 10W-30 full synthetic year-round if the coldest temperature you encounter is +20 deg F. This is exactly the situation I have with my Cub, stored in an unheated, attached garage.

Denny,

Thanks for the great ESSO videos!

Kraig,

Thank you for the recommendation!

Dave

 

[dschwandt]

Nic, better refigure that....X3!!! -35C is -31F!!!

 

[dfrisk]

KEN F. - The multi-weight oils of 35 yrs ago left a lot to be desired.

Here's an updated Kohler service manual with more current info; http://www.kohler-engine-parts.opeengines.com/pub/TP-2379.pdf

Yep, Kohler still recommends 30 weight above 32 degrees.

But if you go back in the archives about 8-10 days, you'll find a post from Dave Kirk who has worked for several engine manufacturers, some making small air-cooled engines and some making engines, water-cooled, the size of a full size pickup truck... and he recommended Mobil 1 full sythetic 10W-30 oil for year-round use if I remember his post correctly. He's used it for many years in his Killer Kohler. I've used 10W-40 of a couple brands for many years, and 17 yrs ago switched to 15W-40 Rotella in all my engines. I do run 5W-40 Rotella synthetic in My Killer Kohler.

Oil consumption may be slightly higher with a multi-vis. oil than with a straight 30 weight.

I would pay more attention to the latest recommendations than a 40 yr old one. Both IH and Kohler revised their recommendations as oils improved. I would hope NOBODY is still using non-detergent oil in their 1939 FARMALL H or M. My Dad stopped using that stuff back in the 1950s.

 

[sblunier]

Let's just say I wasn't thrilled about firing off the 782 (M18) when it was below zero last night with ANY oil weight in it, but I was sure glad it was 10W-30 Motorcraft semi-synthetic and not straight 30wt.

This 782 is a little on the worn side, not really using oil, but smoking on start-up and I have always been a bit afraid of dropping all the way to 5W-30, given most of my snow removal happens above 0 deg (usually 20-30 deg.).

I do have an oil pressure gauge on the 782 and watched it like a hawk as it started. It jumped right up to 30# when it started (usually runs max 35-40# and min 20# hot at WOT) and held there as it warmed up....a comforting sign, at least the oil was making it throught the filter/bypass and to the galleys in the block.

I usually run 30wt Valvoline in the summer, but may look into the Mobile 1 10W-30 for year round use in my "fresh" engines. I never really got too worried about it, as I always figured they needed an oil change in the fall and should have the gas washed oil from the winter changed for good measure be fore they are pulled hard in the spring. Following that schedule good 30wt or synthetic 10W-30 in the summer is a bit more of a "pick-um".

 

[dcharette]

Kraig,Keith
Yes i've seen the muffler crutch on his site and made one and have it installed on the 1250.Great idea.I pulled the muffler out tonight and it looks like the nut backed off my bolt i was using for the stand off.I don't remember if I used a nylock or a metal locking nut. I know the bolt I used was stainless because the previous bolts were breaking from the vibration.
I'm going to cut a block of Al. and make a spacer.

On the oil debate, is the reason for the non-detergent oil because of the lack of oil filter/pressurized oil system.
The non-detergent is not supposed to carry the contaminants around the engine as much as the oils used in pressurized oil engines.
When that oil passes through the filter the contaminants stay in the filter.

 

[thoffman]

Dennis,
I knew it was a Canadian video at the 1:00 mark when the Champion grader went rolling by. What a POS.