Lewis - thanks for all your help! Think I'm good to go now - just need to go fishing for some spacers. I am soooo ready to be done with this thing! After all of Don's post about timing, carbs and all I'm spooked about even touching this thing! Good day!
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Archive through February 26, 2013
- Thread starter mmasheris
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
jchamberlin
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- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Speaking of Donald Tanner, he promised to get back out in the shop today and finish up on his carburetor float issue before he gets back to painting the smaller parts of his 125 tractor. For anyone interested, I've compiled over 220 posts to date, across two threads, illustrated with 40 pictures (some duplicates, I'm sure), dating back to January 29, 2013 on his attempts to resolve the high speed running issues on his 125. His efforts have touched on several issues and generated contributions from more than a few knowledgeable people. Jeff Baker suggested creating a separate thread in the Sandbox for reference, I feel that excerpts might be helpful, and I'm willing to pull together a synopsis if enough people support the initiative.
Lewis, any chance I could get you to email me a copy of the Curtis Cab instructions for my "archive" please?
TIA
Terry Davis
(Lewis - thanks for all your help! Think I'm good to go now - just need to go fishing for some spacers. I am soooo ready to be done with this thing! After all of Don's post about timing, carbs and all I'm spooked about even touching this thing! Good day)
I don`t worry about a problem taking something apart when there are so many people on here that can set me straight . I made space for my 125 , seems the back three are needed for the gas tank support and the front two are used for the muffler heat shield support. I just drilled out some round stock and that did it. for studs I bought grade 8 threaded rod and cut the length I needed .This 125 did give me a headache . Some times like Denny said , when you think it is a fuel issue it will turn out to be a spark issue. I was sure the problem I had was spark and it turned out to be the carb. I guess I should never assume because it make a ass out of you and me so my instructor told me once in class.I knew when I had the issue with the 125 I could allways take parts from another Cub (129). This place is great for the help anyone will get when needed to repair these great tractors. I post what I do so others can learn along with me , I know there are great people on here that don`t mind taking the time to help out.
Morning Denny, your some quiet lately.
Got to make a trip this am to get a valve pan gasket for my 1512. We use to take O ring stock at work and glue it to length with locktite 706 ? the company I worked for made big pipe (54" id)out of fibreglass and we would cut two rings groves back from the edge on the out side of the pipe.we made up O rings so the pipe could be put together ( bell and spigot).
Tristan Stewart
sometimes pictures don`t tell the whole story.sorry, I thought you had the trailer connection back so far that it was causing a light front end on your tractor.These Cubs do a great job for there size . I know sometimes I ask to much from them. I tend to over load them, most times they surprise me .
(Lewis - thanks for all your help! Think I'm good to go now - just need to go fishing for some spacers. I am soooo ready to be done with this thing! After all of Don's post about timing, carbs and all I'm spooked about even touching this thing! Good day)
I don`t worry about a problem taking something apart when there are so many people on here that can set me straight . I made space for my 125 , seems the back three are needed for the gas tank support and the front two are used for the muffler heat shield support. I just drilled out some round stock and that did it. for studs I bought grade 8 threaded rod and cut the length I needed .This 125 did give me a headache . Some times like Denny said , when you think it is a fuel issue it will turn out to be a spark issue. I was sure the problem I had was spark and it turned out to be the carb. I guess I should never assume because it make a ass out of you and me so my instructor told me once in class.I knew when I had the issue with the 125 I could allways take parts from another Cub (129). This place is great for the help anyone will get when needed to repair these great tractors. I post what I do so others can learn along with me , I know there are great people on here that don`t mind taking the time to help out.
Morning Denny, your some quiet lately.
Got to make a trip this am to get a valve pan gasket for my 1512. We use to take O ring stock at work and glue it to length with locktite 706 ? the company I worked for made big pipe (54" id)out of fibreglass and we would cut two rings groves back from the edge on the out side of the pipe.we made up O rings so the pipe could be put together ( bell and spigot).
Tristan Stewart
sometimes pictures don`t tell the whole story.sorry, I thought you had the trailer connection back so far that it was causing a light front end on your tractor.These Cubs do a great job for there size . I know sometimes I ask to much from them. I tend to over load them, most times they surprise me .
Jeremiah Chamberlin
I think if you wanted to start a thread on Carb repair it would be a great idea. you could list the differences in the floats and it could be a reference for all. Pictures are all ways good also.
I think if you wanted to start a thread on Carb repair it would be a great idea. you could list the differences in the floats and it could be a reference for all. Pictures are all ways good also.
Lewis-
I've been checking the TC-113 parts manual which covers the 1x7 tractors. It doesn't give specifics that I understand but does mention 5 studs and 4 screws. By the screws it mentions 3/8-16 x 1 1/2 Znd. I don't know what Znd stands for and the studs are just mentioned as Studs, Cylinder Head with no description.
Does this tell you anything?
As far as placement goes, the studs go where the tank bracket and the heat shield go. Apparently the 1 1/2" screws go in the remaining holes. I haven't looked closely at my 147 yet so I don't know if the tank bracket requires spacers like the heat shield does and so on. I haven't seen a Kohler yet that didn't have the heavy flat washers for each head bolt either so I imagine they are to be included.
I've been checking the TC-113 parts manual which covers the 1x7 tractors. It doesn't give specifics that I understand but does mention 5 studs and 4 screws. By the screws it mentions 3/8-16 x 1 1/2 Znd. I don't know what Znd stands for and the studs are just mentioned as Studs, Cylinder Head with no description.
Does this tell you anything?
As far as placement goes, the studs go where the tank bracket and the heat shield go. Apparently the 1 1/2" screws go in the remaining holes. I haven't looked closely at my 147 yet so I don't know if the tank bracket requires spacers like the heat shield does and so on. I haven't seen a Kohler yet that didn't have the heavy flat washers for each head bolt either so I imagine they are to be included.
As for the footrest screws, I've always used a good ole impact tool which has both Phillips and flat head drivers. It has worked probably 90% of the time and heat usually takes care of the remaining 10%. I have used the welded nut method for the worst cases but it's always the last resort.
I have always used penetrating oil for ALL cases too.
I have always used penetrating oil for ALL cases too.
hydroharry
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Jeremiah - it would have to be 2 threads, one in the Sandbox and one in the Garage. In some of my posts I've been unable to use appropriate adjectives. Also, I was wondering about the "extra" tab on the float you mentioned and pictured. I had seen that tab in the manual, and how it's supposed to be adjusted, but did you actually narrow it down to which carbs are supposed to have that extra tab? I'm pretty certain it's not on most all the carbs I've done. Also, you thought it was the problem with your 149, but if the problem developed over time then how could it have been right to begin with? Do you think someone installed the incorrect float and always had the issue?
Wayne - I think that "Znd" notation in the parts book may indicate Zinc plated, or similar. Hope one of the knowledgeable nuts on here can bolt it down for certain (puns intended).
Wayne - I think that "Znd" notation in the parts book may indicate Zinc plated, or similar. Hope one of the knowledgeable nuts on here can bolt it down for certain (puns intended).
Working on the 1250 I picked up the other day. So...why am I getting a spurt of hydro fluid out of the top of one of the relief valves??
Dave S.
Dave S.
David S.
There's either some gunk under the ball/seat or the O-rings are bad or they are just worn out.
Sometimes you can take them out and clean them up and they work for a while, but the end result is replacement IMHO.
There's either some gunk under the ball/seat or the O-rings are bad or they are just worn out.
Sometimes you can take them out and clean them up and they work for a while, but the end result is replacement IMHO.
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Terry D - here are some pics I took of the K301 in my 126. I took them so I could have a visual for putting everything back together later on. Hopefully your 147 is the same.
Ignore the stink bugs crawling around on the head. They weren't thrilled about the PB Blaster being sprayed on the head bolts and making it's way to their hiding places in the head fins...
Ignore the stink bugs crawling around on the head. They weren't thrilled about the PB Blaster being sprayed on the head bolts and making it's way to their hiding places in the head fins...
The extra tab that Jeremiah had on his float was on a Walbro carb I just happened to work on last week for my son's neighbor. There was a spring that fit around the pin. One end pushed against the tab on the float and the other end sat against the tab the pin went in on the carb. Don't remember for sure but I believe it assisted in pushing the float down, for what reason I have no idea.
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- Allen Schumacher
Larry, I suspect that little spring helps pull the valve pin away from the valve seat if there is some reason it wants to jam there. We're only using gravity for fuel flow so I dont know how much pressure there is to push past a sticky valve. I have seen those tiny pin springs on other garden equip I have and 1 or 2 of them have rubber seats !
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Tom H - here is a close-up of that label:
I believe it reads, "TO CHECK OIL LEVEL USE DIPSTICK ON ..AR COVER"
Don't know if "..AR" is "REAR" or "FAR" or "GEAR"
I believe it reads, "TO CHECK OIL LEVEL USE DIPSTICK ON ..AR COVER"
Don't know if "..AR" is "REAR" or "FAR" or "GEAR"
hydroharry
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Bill J - QUICK, get a spark plug in that hole before the stink bugs crawl in there and can't get back out.
Wayne - never seen what look like Zinc plated head bolts either. The few new ones I have seen are usually a nice black matt finish.
Tom - good pick up on that heat shield decal. I've seen it a few times but it one that hasn't come up for restoration purposes. I think Bill has just about got what it says. Next to last word is probably "GEAR" cover. Has to be on one of the engines that has 2 sticks, one for checking and one for fillin, most often the 14hp used in 147's but some 12hps since that's what Bill has here.
Wayne - never seen what look like Zinc plated head bolts either. The few new ones I have seen are usually a nice black matt finish.
Tom - good pick up on that heat shield decal. I've seen it a few times but it one that hasn't come up for restoration purposes. I think Bill has just about got what it says. Next to last word is probably "GEAR" cover. Has to be on one of the engines that has 2 sticks, one for checking and one for fillin, most often the 14hp used in 147's but some 12hps since that's what Bill has here.
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