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Archive through February 22, 2008
- Thread starter rporter
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Roger M,
Anytime you remove the S/G you should set the polarity of it. This is accomplished very simply with a jumper wire and momemtarily touching the BAT terminal to the GEN terminal (I need to verify that is the correct terminal with the Service Manual) on the voltage regulator.
I see Charlie has posted info on testing and working on S/G's in the http://cubfaq.com/questions.html link at the top of the page, see #'s 47 and 47a).
Anytime you remove the S/G you should set the polarity of it. This is accomplished very simply with a jumper wire and momemtarily touching the BAT terminal to the GEN terminal (I need to verify that is the correct terminal with the Service Manual) on the voltage regulator.
I see Charlie has posted info on testing and working on S/G's in the http://cubfaq.com/questions.html link at the top of the page, see #'s 47 and 47a).
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- Aug 31, 2006
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- Home of the Plow Special
Ron-
What you describe is true for a generator, but since our cubs have a starter generator there is no need to polarize. It self polarizes the minute you try to start the tractor.
What you describe is true for a generator, but since our cubs have a starter generator there is no need to polarize. It self polarizes the minute you try to start the tractor.
Hey guys, when I was plowing tonight with my 100, the creeper gear kicked out a few times, this is the first time this has happen. I would be plowing along with the creeper in high and all of a sudden it would kick out of gear, when I looked down at the creeper shiftlever, it was in the neutral position. Is my creeper starting to go, or do I need to rebuild it ?
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Ron/Art-
The voltage regulator is what needs to be polarized. You still need to do the procedure that Ron mentioned. I didn't do this once and fried a regulator....don't make the same mistake I did. You're both partially right.
The voltage regulator is what needs to be polarized. You still need to do the procedure that Ron mentioned. I didn't do this once and fried a regulator....don't make the same mistake I did. You're both partially right.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Jason D.-
Yes, otherwise nothing will happen. BTW, you'll get a pretty good spark. Don't let it scare you and cause you to short anything to the frame with your jumper lead.
Yes, otherwise nothing will happen. BTW, you'll get a pretty good spark. Don't let it scare you and cause you to short anything to the frame with your jumper lead.
Dave H on the creeper, Check on the outer case of the creeper gear. there is a "dimple" in the casting that is the stop for the ball detent that holds it in gear. If the dimple gets a buildup of crud in it it makes it very easy to slip out of gear. If you are lucky a good cleaning underneith could be a cure. Had it happen while the front seal on the creeper was leaking. The lube and dirt from tilling filled the dimple and it would not stay in gear. Good luck!
Would anyone know off hand how long the lift rod for the snowthrower and front blade would be for a 107 with electric lift?
Has anyone broke off the side studs for the quick hitch on the front snow plow and if so wouldn't it be better with a solid shaft like on the mule drive? Thanks, Brandon
Has anyone broke off the side studs for the quick hitch on the front snow plow and if so wouldn't it be better with a solid shaft like on the mule drive? Thanks, Brandon
I cleaned the dimple on the outside of the creeper, it wasn't too dirty, I then drove the 100 around for about 10 minutes and it popped out of gear, when it does this the creeper shift lever goes into its neutral postition, I then try to shift it back into high and it grinds, even if I push in the clutch. I then have to idle the engine down and press in the clutch and wait a while till it doesn't grind and then put it in low then high. I also noticed that when I'm driving along I can just barely touch the creeper shift lever and it pops out of gear. Also, lately I've noticed that when I shift thru the gears (1,2,3 and reverse)the shift lever doesn't easily go into gear and that I have to ease up on the clutch pedal halfway then it goes into gear.
Thanks guys for the help.
Dave
Thanks guys for the help.
Dave
Jerry B,
Everyone was waiting for me to post pics of these, ya, that's it!
Everyone was waiting for me to post pics of these, ya, that's it!
Or maybe the pic of my new sign?
Dave - First off they DON'T have synchronizers so quit trying to shift it like a car. Second some of your trouble sounds like the drive shaft is dragging in the engine bushing causing the shaft to keep turning instead of releasing when you push in the clutch. As for popping out of gear the above 2 things has probably caused the gears to wear (chip!) off so that it'll never stay in gear until you put new gears in.
To fix the second problem you'll need to remove the drive shaft and clean out the bushing and inspect it. It's probably worn and needing replaced -or- it's got grime in it and needs cleaned and polished , and look at the end of the shaft too. The bushing and shaft may be gawled.
To fix the second problem you'll need to remove the drive shaft and clean out the bushing and inspect it. It's probably worn and needing replaced -or- it's got grime in it and needs cleaned and polished , and look at the end of the shaft too. The bushing and shaft may be gawled.
jmacdonald
Well-known member
Just thought I would upload two pictures one with the Mod 125. I wish people would stop asking for snow I've had enought this year. I have problems throwing snow over the high banks. I tried adjusting the shute,but I end up trowing snow to vertical. I think this summer I'll tear down the thrower and try the slip paint.
Ken, I think I worded it wrong, I don't shift it like a standard transmission, they way I shift is that I come to a complete stop using the brake/clutch pedal then shift it into gear, this is where it has a hard time going into gear, this is where I have to ease up on the clutch pedal to get it to go into gear. Thanks.
I was wondring if anyone has a suggestion for a tractor seat that resist cracking in the cold weather, short of a metal pan. I need a new seat for my 782 and would like one that stays together in the cold weather. Maybe they all crack in the cold as they get older. Any thoughts? Thanks.
