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IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Don Tanner, trim back the outer sheath just a bit on that wire harness. "sometimes" the colors will still be there. It's worked for me....
 
TOM H. - HA-HA.... sad but true about the elec. lifts. I "Borrowed" Dad's CC #70 to mow once when they were on vacation. Because of that I started looking for MY first CC in about 1980, there was an auction in residential Moline, IL with a 147 & 105 CC if I remember right. Each had a mower, and I think there might have been a frt blade but no tiller or snow blower. There was a box next to the tractors with misc. belts, brackets, chains, manuals, and TWO elec. lift actuators due to the failure of the elec. lift on the 147.

It was kinda odd, both tractors sold WAY over what I thought they were worth. The local Moline classified ads would always have 5-6 green tractors less than 2-3 yrs old for sale, all the local JD employees got a hefty discount on them but they would be listed for almost retail price. I kept looking for SIX more months before I found my 72. I think it was a bargain.... $365 for a 13 yr old tractor just over 31 years ago.
 
Update on my 1650:

I finished stripping the 44C deck and have the hardware ready to put on my solid 44A shell, including new double pulley to fit the 1650's deck to pto drive belt. I need to degrease the 44A shell and give it a coat of paint. I'd like to do something to the underside of the deck to prevent rust. Anyone used this spray-on type bed liner stuff on the underside of their deck? I'm just looking into this, not sure I can even buy it.

Two of the deck spindles I have are the ST-745 type and I may go ahead and replace the bearings on them. The third spindle is the "water pump" one piece type. Though it is smooth, I might replace it with another ST-745 spindle and I'd have pretty much a new deck.

Could someone tell me the diameter or circumference of their rear deck wheels and the front deck roller? Not sure the ones on my 44A shell are original and they look oversized compared to my 44C deck.

Thanks everyone!!!
Bill
 
Mike Frade

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You are correct , I did cut the sheath back and found the wires do have colour back under the sheath. I will tape it back up . but now I can install the wire set.Thanks again.
 
I hope I am posting a question in the right area and format, it has been a while since I have been on. I recently picked up a nice Quiteline series gear driven tractor. Things are a bit odd with it. It came supposedly from a family who has owned it since new, but who knows. It is a 14hp Kohler K321 and looks to all be original or very professionaly replaced. I was told this came new like this. As it appears, there was no 14hp gear driven in this year. The hood and decals are gone and it has been repainted. Question, will the serial number or any other ID on the tractor tell me what it originally was, 1000, 1200 or the like? Whoever painted or touched it up did an excellent job and it has no overspray but I am yet to clean the ID tag where it was also painted. Is there any chance they could have used a 14hp in some gear driven models in the 70's. Thanks in advance and if you fellows don't know, nobody will
 
Tim,
The 1000 10Hp QL last 4 digits of serial#
0550U
0540U

and on the 1200
0056U
0570U
0580U

I'm Very sure somedropped in the 14 Hp. IH never made a 14 hp gear drive
 
Tom H, I remember having float lock pin for my 128 back in '72/'73. There was no other way to float implement lift with lift handle -only could lock in position with handle ratchet @ bottom of handle.I think newer CC's had an updated lift mechanism. I see 1200 model has the same lift handle as the 128, but uses lock assy. # 401449R1 in the handle. That's if my memory is ...
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Also, working at an IH dealership, electric lifts were looked at as a negative for reliability and repair.
 
Update on my post to Tom H and other GearHeads with manual lift QL tractors:
The information is also applicable to the 1250 Hydro with manual lift (sometimes referred to as a StrongArm Lift).

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (most especially Hydros)
 
I have run into another problem reading the manual about installing the starter pulley. The manual says for the dimension from the front face of the starter - generator pulley hub to the end of the crank must be 1 1/4" . I have the pulley on 1" and its at the point that it will soon rub on the bolt that is needed to adjust the belt on the starter -generator. What do I do now??? How much room does the PTO need ?
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Uhhh Don,
Believe you got something on wrong. The bolt to adjust the belt on the starter generator is on the starter generator. The bolt behind the starter pulley only mounts the S/G adjustment arm, does not adjust the belt. When the pulley is in position, it covers that bolt and you cannot not loosen.
 
Paul, Don, there was room to get to the bolt on my K301. My other K301s also have room to loosen/tighten. It MUST be installed before the pulley but it can be adjusted.

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DON - On my K241 & 321 I ground about half of the head down to allow the S/G pulley to slide on a little bit further. Then you can leave the PTO pilot bearing out just a very little beyond the end of the crankshaft and everything works fine.
 
Don - besides what others advise I'd go ahead and mount the S/G so you can also eyeball the alignment of the small S/G pulley with the basket pulley on the crankshaft. I don't think the 1 1/4" measurement spec has to be really exact. In my view the alignment of both pulleys is more critical. When you install the PTO clutch the basket on the big pulley has some extra depth that it should make up for about 1/4" if you are off that much. Still, you may have to grind the head off that bolt, leave a washer off it, etc.

Also, I sure hope that wiring harness you're using works out ok. I can't tell from your pic, but it sure looks like the cloth covered style, which is known for failing on the xx6/xx7 series.

Kraig - the block in your pic only has 12 fins. I thought it was decided all the blocks have 13 fins except the 16hp which can have 12 or 13. Are you sure that's a K301?

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and some measurements do have to vary)
 
Dennis ,Paul, Kraig

There is not much room here fro the bolt and I now only have 1" I could use a 4 1/2 cut off and grind the head down. But would I get the 1/4" I am told by the manual.
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Just how much room ,or shaft length do you need for the pto?
 
Don T.
Put the PTO basket pulley on loose, The put you PTO bearing and locking collar on flush with the end of the crank. Pull the pulley up snug to the locking collar and that will tell you how much room the PTO needs.
 
Quote "I did cut the sheath back and found the wires do have colour back under the sheath. I will tape it back up . but now I can install the wire set.Thanks again."

That's Great, Glad it helps.


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Thanks guys, when I read the manual and it said 1 1/4" and I had 1" well it was
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. A trip to look at my 129 I see I used no lock washer on that bolt. That alone will give me what I need to get it all done .I can have this running as soon as I get some Mail from Charlie.The deck I have has all new spindles just a belt and gator blades to buy.
 

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