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Archive through February 14, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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rfuller

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Jan 20, 2007
Messages
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Rob Fuller
Dennis and Marty,

Thanks for the info on the gasket. I should have looked back further on in model years on the parts look up. I did not know they fit on lo-boys too.
 
I took off the angle drive on the QA-42 and the problem was extremely obvious



185531.jpg


The balls in the outer bearing seemed to been "misplaced"
1a_scratchhead.gif


I was able to get bearing numbers off the cover that the drive pulley kept on the shaft.

Bearing number is 1630 RS
3/4 bore
1-5/8 OD
1/2 thick

I'll take this into work tomorrow and clean it with the parts cleaner and finish taking it apart. I'm not sure if I got excessive wear on the small gear or if it will be usable.

Jeff
 
Rob,
Along with the VERY HELPFUL guys on this site, there is a book written by Kenneth Updike (Original Farmall Cub and Cub Cadet) that has a ton of information about Cubs and Cub Cadet tractors.
Being new to CC's I need all the help I can get!
help.gif
 
re: my loss of all gears-I have checked the driveshaft pins on my 108 and dont see anything amiss with them. The shaft rotates the pinned collar when I turn it by hand in neutral. My shifter feels just like it always did, doesn't feel like anything is messed up inside. I'm just trying to avoid disassembly if I possibly can....

For my education, how can I be certain this is not clutch related? When the clutch goes out in my truck it acts like this, it wont o anywhere. I know my cub clutch plate was getting low when I did some other repair on the shaft a couple years ago. I should have replaced it but didn't.
 
I have a question about my 67' 124. I have another 124 in my garage that is a 69' puller i built. Anyway, will any damage be done to my 67', because it is sittin in about a 2-3ft snow drift, and has sat there for the last 2 weeks. It is almost impossible to dig it out at the moment, so would it ruin any parts? Thanks.
 
Second sprocket roll pin in as many days for my QA-42A. Don't know how many more I have laying around. That drifted and packed snow left by the plows is tough on my equipment.

Tim,
Once you have it dug out and get it to where it is warm, let everything drip and air dry. Afterwords, I would give it a good going over before putting it into regular service, lubricate all the usual places, change the oil, and make sure the ignition is dry before trying to fire it up.
 
Well, the 128 is soon to come. Im sellin my original, because the trans went up, and at this time, i dont have the money to rebuild it, so im sellin it to a friend for $250 and his 128. Hope this is a good deal.
 
Bruce N.
If your losing/shearing/breaking pins, your using the wrong pins.
A regular roll pin won't cut it, or in your case, it will.
biggrin.gif

You have to have a HEAVY DUTY spirol pin in the puppy.
 
Charlie,
The original roll pin was replaced by a pin from my old lift mechanism, and the pin I replaced that with probably came off a driveshaft, and looked like a spirol pin, but they were both used. I just needed to get it back into service quickly. Luckily there is a Cub Cadet dealer about 2 miles away that can supply me with the proper parts, but I've been running that puppy hard.
 
Since getting the 127 home a couple of weeks ago I have been using it a lot... with the plow, Anyway my question is about the head gasket. The po put a new head gasket in it and didn’t torque the head bolts properly or in the correct order. I noticed I was getting some blow by from the head that’s how I discovered the over tightened and loose head bolts. Since I didn’t have an other gasket on hand I cleaned everything up and torque it correctly and put it back together. I guess my question is would it hurt anything to run a "used" gasket or should I just order a new one? I haven’t run it yet because im afraid of ruining something. Thanks a lot for your input in advance.
 
Richard:
Get it warm, retorque and then check for leaks..If there's already been problems, the head may be warped and needs flattening (piece of plate glass, some 300 grit wet or dry sandpaper and elbow grease, or skip the paper and use valve grinding compound)..
 
Wayne S it really sounds like you need to open your shift case. It is really not much work. Like I said the other day 8 foot rest screws or bolts pull battery out then 4 more bolts lift off fender seat pan and your there to the shifter 4 bolts and hopefully you will see the problem. this is only about 1/2 hour to get to it maybe even less. here is what you will see inside note how the shift forks look
just my .02 cents
185542.jpg
 
Wayne my mistake its 8 bolts to get shift cover off. I circled in blue the shift forks they should be in the shape of a C hope this helps
185545.jpg
 
hey guys! got my 71 all tore down and put a clutch assy. from my 100 into it... i just need to get the pin from the hardware store tomorrow and shell be all better!

on another note i found a Kwik-way loader on craigs list in good shape for $900 is that a good deal... says it has a new pump?
 
Matt,

I don't know what market value is on a used loader, but I can tell you this... I'm planning to build a loader for my 126 at some point in the future. Buying the hoses and valves at my OEM discounts, buying steel wholesale, and getting the pump and valves from Northern and Bailey's, I'm expecting to have about $700 in materials, not counting time in design and fabrication.

Jerry
 
Oh alright then, guess I'll take the shift cover off. Thanks for the pics.
 
I need a standard size piston for my k301 I would like to use a kohler brand piston. I have found two part numbers 47 874 06-s and 47 874 16-s. I will be using a aftermarket .020 under rod. I just don't know which piston I can use.
any info would be great.
 

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