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Archive through February 12, 2008

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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pandrews

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 10, 2008
Messages
99
displayname
Paul W Andrews
Kraig M:
Do you have any pictures of a rear lift/boom made off a sleeve hitch? Maybe DIGGER has some idea's ?This group has been helping me for many years THANK YOU !
Paul
 
Brent, you are using the correct gauge in the pic. you've just got it too tight, replace that button and everything will fall into place. Trying to adjust that pto. by guess work will get you nowhere fast. That thing has to be adjusted precisely or it will not work, a little bit out either way and it won't free wheel.
 
Good news, good news. I went to a garage sale and picked up two old cub cadets. I got a 1000 and a 129. Both are not running but the price was right. The 1000 is in bad conduction and will be used as for parts. The 129 was to have a rebuilt engine and just need a carb. kit. Well the 129 is not in as good of shape as I was informed. I could get it to turn over but not start. It has spark to the plug. I think the rings are bad because the plug is covered in black stuff. I need to do a compression check before I do anything else. I think it was still a good buy because one of the batteries was good and the1000 has a lifting arm. Will post pics when I can. BTW what is the difference between a 128 and a 129?
 
Charlie, welcome back. Pls note the posting time is now at EST. You used to show CST. Keep throwing quarters in the server.......
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Charlie, was the site down? I about went into withdrawalls cuz I couldn't get on all afternoon . I was thinking maybe my
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idiot box was mad at me again!
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Scott W. The main difference between a 128 and a 129 is the 128 is a gear drive and the 129 would be hydro. The 129 may also have a hydraulic lift for the implements. They are both a 12 hp engine.
In the 1x8/9 Series:
8 = Gear Drive
9 = Hydro
 
Paul A., I tried to post this morning but Charlie had tripped on the power cord to the server. I didn't find any sleeve hitch hoists/ lift booms but I seem to recall seeing one made from a Brinly plow frame.
 
Kevin F...I am putting a pto in my Original, this is what was explained to me to do. I still need to find an input shaft from a F-Cub to get the splined end from. Probably should add; existing input shaft should be cut in the same place, done in a lathe to get it as close to perfect as possible
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I had a heck of a day today. Found out the <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> Cub Cadet site was down so I got mad and went out and traded all my Cubs to a rear engine Green rider ......
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<font size="+2">NOT!!</font>
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I have a Brinly 3pt plow frame that I use as a tow hook...don't know that it is really a boom...cubbies don't have the hydraulic power to lift much.

First voyage on the new snow machine, 1204 w/QA42A (4" pully) & Delux Cab. Opened the gov from 2500 RPM and pushed it to 4k RPM after these pics. This is real dry/light powder. I can't imagine doing this without a cab..

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What is the best way to adjust the carb on a 149 with a K321 14hp engine? I just put on the proper carb on my engine and can't seem to get it adjusted properly. The manual says to initially adjust the high speed screw out 2 turns and the idle screw out 1 1/4 turn.
That adjustment does not make it run good at all. It seems to like the high speed screw out around 3 to 4 turns to get the high speed to sound right and the idle screw out around 2 1/2 turns. These settings seem to run good at high and low speeds but anything in between seems to hunt a bit. I left the governor where it was set before with the Walbro carb. This carb was just rebuilt and it is the Kohler one with the 30 in the throat. If I turn the idle mixture screw in more it is not smooth at idle and it really won't idle slow enough. At these settings the throttle response is great and in my opinion, the maximum engine speed seems higher than I like at full throttle.
Keep in mind that the engine does not have a load on it currently when I am adjusting it.
Even when the engine is hot it likes the choke pulled out for a second or two to let it start. Is this normal?
Any advise would be appreciated.
Mark
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Lonny, I feel your pain on those frozen pipes. I lived in a mobile home for the last 15 years until June of last year. Nothing like only having cold water when you want a shower or running water only in the bathroom.
For slow hydraulics on my 1450, I run a salamander heater pointed at the back end for about 10 minutes. Then turn the heater around so it blows through the grille to warm the engine. Makes for quick, easy starts and immediate hydraulics no matter how cold it gets.
 
I recall a past discussion with reference to using a digital tachometer on cub engines but was unable to locate in archives or vault. I thought it was Kraig or Matt G. does anyone remember or have any experiences with such tachs?
 
Tim - Tiny Tach is what most guys use.

Mark - When you say "turns" are you counting it as 360 degrees ? I usally find 1.5 turns on both screws is a good starting point. You might check your timing and points too.
 
Mark, those carb settings are "get you in the ballpark" settings. 1st and fore most, make sure your ignition system is up to par. If your points are burnt, spark plug fouled, out of time, fix them FIRST. You will not get it to run right until you do. From there adjust the main needle until it runs smooth under load at full throttle. Then adjust the idle needle so it idles smooth.
 
Ken, do you consider a tach a neccesary tool for setup of the engine or should I trust my governor and my ear?
 
Ken & Brian- I did 360 degree turns. It has a new condenser & coil. As far as timing I have not checked it,nor do I know how to or hook up a tach to it. When I got it on New Years day, I had no spark and it was sitting outside for 5 years total and not run for the last 2 to 3. It had a new Kohler replacement engine installed in the late 90's with no idea of how much use it has had. Probably not a lot since there is no smoke at all.
 
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