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Archive through February 05, 2012
- Thread starter mgonitzke
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
DON T. - You'll be chastized here for running high octane gas in your Kohlers here like I always am. They only have about 6:1 compression ratios and don't need high octane. But you are correct that the carbon deposits will heat up, glow red and set the air/fuel mixture on fire sooner and cause pinging or detonation. They're not really the same thing but similar and BOTH will do a LOT of damage to pistons, rings, valves, head gaskets, even the rod bearings. The higher octane gas slows up the chemical reaction the gas has to go through to burn as it's compressed and delays the start of detonation hopeully until the spark is generated to officially start combustion.
Lots of pullers run 87 octane, but then their engines only run for a minute or two then cool down, plus high RPM gives the fuel/air mixture so little time to detonate that reduces the tendency too.
I've spent a L-O-T of time running gas engines of all types for hours on end of full load. Seen many many exh. manifolds glowing red & orange hot. You really shouldn't see that with a Kohler. You're running too lean if you do.
Lots of pullers run 87 octane, but then their engines only run for a minute or two then cool down, plus high RPM gives the fuel/air mixture so little time to detonate that reduces the tendency too.
I've spent a L-O-T of time running gas engines of all types for hours on end of full load. Seen many many exh. manifolds glowing red & orange hot. You really shouldn't see that with a Kohler. You're running too lean if you do.
mhomrighausen
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- Marlin Homrighausen
Bill J. Purple and red isomounts? It sounds like someone bought them of Ebay. Those are definintely not anywhere near correct. Plus they are a LOT cheaper if purchased at the local Auto Parts Store than Ebay. Thoe guys sellling those "aftermarket/will fit" kits are marking them up over 250%.
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Bill J - the original factory ISO-mounts have 2 parts, and unfortunately I don't know the technical names - there is the rubber part that has a metal ring covered with thin rubber on one end. This end fits into the large hole in the ISO-bar. The 2nd part of the ISO-mount is a metal support stem. The base is about the diameter of the large hole in the ISO-bar, and it has a stem that sticks up about 1". This part slides into the rubber part when assembled. Maybe Wayne S can find a couple good ones in his pile, or a bad and good one and post some pics for you. It's hard to describe the good and bad features. The rubber part could be crushed as Wayne noted. The metal stem part could be all chewed up at the top where one stem gets pulled down towards the other stem. This is a case where pictures are worth 10,000 words. The last pic (at the very bottom) of Charlie's FAQ No. 23 shows the stem inserted in the rubber part on the right hand side of the pic, and it shows it mounted to the ISO-bar in the left hand side of the pic.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die
Dennis Frisk
I do Not use high test gas , but we have a blend that I will use in all my small engines.I do make sure they run at a tempt that I do not cause any damage to the engines. I use this tool to check how my engines are running and keep an eye on them. This is a good tool to tell me just how my K`s are working.
I have also used my colour tune plug just to see what kind of spark I get when I have a good running K . I don`t ever run my tractors at wot because I find they will do most jobs at over half if the governor does it`s job. Now with a snow blower I do run them hard , but the outside temps are usually cold enuf to not hurt a good running K .
Note the water bottle cap ! so the paint does not cover the breather in the rear end . Got to use what you got lol.
I do Not use high test gas , but we have a blend that I will use in all my small engines.I do make sure they run at a tempt that I do not cause any damage to the engines. I use this tool to check how my engines are running and keep an eye on them. This is a good tool to tell me just how my K`s are working.
I have also used my colour tune plug just to see what kind of spark I get when I have a good running K . I don`t ever run my tractors at wot because I find they will do most jobs at over half if the governor does it`s job. Now with a snow blower I do run them hard , but the outside temps are usually cold enuf to not hurt a good running K .
Note the water bottle cap ! so the paint does not cover the breather in the rear end . Got to use what you got lol.
Marlin H.
MOOG offers 3 versions of the ISO mounts.
Colors are red, blue and black.
Super hard being red, blue hard, and black so so hard.
NOW, that being said, NAPA offers their version of the MOOG K5252 which is far and above the MOOG's.
MOOG offers 3 versions of the ISO mounts.
Colors are red, blue and black.
Super hard being red, blue hard, and black so so hard.
NOW, that being said, NAPA offers their version of the MOOG K5252 which is far and above the MOOG's.
DON - the last couple years I've been buying my mower gas at the local Kwik-Trip, convenience gas/food mart. Supposedly their gas has more cleaners to keep intake valves clean than most, plus their 91 octane is straight gasoline, not 10% ethanol. I still mix in a little 108 octane leaded race gas, maybe 1 gallon in five. Keeps my old iron running like it's 1968 ALL over again.
Saw a post over on a diesel pickup site where a guy put E85 in his new $55,000 2011 vintage Diesel pickup.
Only got 4-1/2 gal in when he realized his mistake. He syphoned some out, filled it with diesel fuel and drove it! You would think a guy would pay a bit more attention to what he was doing filling up a truck like that. I may not be sure which side the filler on my Wife's car is on but I know what fuel goes in which car/truck/tractor.
Saw a post over on a diesel pickup site where a guy put E85 in his new $55,000 2011 vintage Diesel pickup.
Only got 4-1/2 gal in when he realized his mistake. He syphoned some out, filled it with diesel fuel and drove it! You would think a guy would pay a bit more attention to what he was doing filling up a truck like that. I may not be sure which side the filler on my Wife's car is on but I know what fuel goes in which car/truck/tractor.
Here you go Hydro-
This OEM bushing is the best in the bunch. I just went through my 1650 and used the best eight. The one on the right is a Moog K5252 with the washer just sitting on the top as it would be installed. The "tube" on the left is just the spacer. I'm not familiar with the different colored Moogs but hard rubber would just add to the vibrations IMHO. Solid mounts are out of the question here. I wouldn't think of using them. The softer rubber works together as they were designed and does a fine job. That's why I always try and go back with OEM top and bottom. Once they are replaced they should last many years especially with the rail mod. Again, this is only my opinion. I have used the Moogs on top of one tractor here and it seems ok. I know some have used solids and seem pleased. My bones are just too brittle.
This OEM bushing is the best in the bunch. I just went through my 1650 and used the best eight. The one on the right is a Moog K5252 with the washer just sitting on the top as it would be installed. The "tube" on the left is just the spacer. I'm not familiar with the different colored Moogs but hard rubber would just add to the vibrations IMHO. Solid mounts are out of the question here. I wouldn't think of using them. The softer rubber works together as they were designed and does a fine job. That's why I always try and go back with OEM top and bottom. Once they are replaced they should last many years especially with the rail mod. Again, this is only my opinion. I have used the Moogs on top of one tractor here and it seems ok. I know some have used solids and seem pleased. My bones are just too brittle.
After 5 years of testing, I finally have the perfect ISO mounts like Cub Cadet used to sell 20 years ago.
With around 200 hours on the old standby 1450, I pulled the engine to see how the new style mounts held up and I was not surprised to see them as good as when I installed them.
I know I have little to no vibration like i used to have with the Moogs or the NAPA versions.
With around 200 hours on the old standby 1450, I pulled the engine to see how the new style mounts held up and I was not surprised to see them as good as when I installed them.
I know I have little to no vibration like i used to have with the Moogs or the NAPA versions.
Try this with a MOOG or NAPA mount!
You can't do it. LOL
You can't do it. LOL
proessler
Well-known member
Just my $.02. Iso-mounts use 2.25" NC grade 5 cap screw & 3/8" NC grade 5 lock nut. The lock nut that is available from CC uses lock nut with a dimple or detent on the side (shorter for clearance). Changed iso-mounts on my 1450(new 1978) back in 1980's sometime.
I think...
Wayne S.
They are made by Tenneco.
They are made by Tenneco.
CHARLIE - Doesn't Tennaco own the co. that made Gabriel Shock absorbers for cars? I know they owned Walker Automotive exh system Co., along with JI Case, and then IH Ag. But they sold C/IH to FIAT and merged them with New Holland.
Also Tennaco owned Continental Container Corp, who made cardboard boxes, and a couple ocean going oil tanker fleets, plus a couple oil exploration co's.
Also Tennaco owned Continental Container Corp, who made cardboard boxes, and a couple ocean going oil tanker fleets, plus a couple oil exploration co's.
hydroharry
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Wayne - thanks for digging those ISO-mounts out and posting the pics. The original one, shown in the center of your pic, doesn't look that bad to me. It's a bit dirty but I think you can just wipe that off. As long as the rubber isn't real "squishy" I'd re-use it myself. And the stem or stem washer on the left in your pic looks real good to me. Many I've removed were all chewed up at the top, which I think happens when the rubber gets soft and the torque of the engine bangs the stem tops against each other.
Matt G - good point about the snubbers, sure makes sense and almost certainly you are correct (as I said, I'm not an engineer). When you tension the PTO to mowing deck belt, or even more so, the PTO to snow thrower belt, it's going to pull the engine down against the snubbers (and squeeze the ISO-mounts a bit) so I can see it's very very important to have the snubbers installed on the ISO-bars, and pay close attention to the "gap" between the snubber and the frame, which is mentioned in the Service manual. Thanks again.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die
Matt G - good point about the snubbers, sure makes sense and almost certainly you are correct (as I said, I'm not an engineer). When you tension the PTO to mowing deck belt, or even more so, the PTO to snow thrower belt, it's going to pull the engine down against the snubbers (and squeeze the ISO-mounts a bit) so I can see it's very very important to have the snubbers installed on the ISO-bars, and pay close attention to the "gap" between the snubber and the frame, which is mentioned in the Service manual. Thanks again.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die
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- Binder 1650
I understand the reasons for the ISO mounts with the QL tractors, but how was this vibration handled in the 169 Cub Cadets and the later 82 series tractors?
Just courious.
Thanks!
Bill
Just courious.
Thanks!
Bill
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Bill-
The 169 shakes pretty good, but the 82 series tractors didn't need the mounts because the twin cylinder engines are inherently much smoother than a single. The 1282 has a K301, but it uses essentially the same engine mount as the QL tractors do.
The 169 shakes pretty good, but the 82 series tractors didn't need the mounts because the twin cylinder engines are inherently much smoother than a single. The 1282 has a K301, but it uses essentially the same engine mount as the QL tractors do.
Denny F.
Beats me, I haven't googled to find out.
Beats me, I haven't googled to find out.
Thanks Lonny-
I've only messed with nf tractors for a couple of years now so I have a lot to learn. I would have just tried the headlight assembly but it's too cold and the 100 is "pickled". It won't see daylight until spring.
I've only messed with nf tractors for a couple of years now so I have a lot to learn. I would have just tried the headlight assembly but it's too cold and the 100 is "pickled". It won't see daylight until spring.
