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Archive through December 22, 2012
- Thread starter mgonitzke
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mhomrighausen
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- Marlin Homrighausen
Good Morning, All!
Harry, Ken, and Jeff. A BIG THANK YOU!!! I know that my lift piece has some movement in the bracket and the round cross bar so I'll have to take that into consideration. The quickie bar I made the other day turned out to be just right for the "first snow removal" at 26" in length. The snowthrower didn't hit the ground as much and pick up as much loose gravel. I do have a three foot piece of 1/2 inch make a bolt rod so I think that I'll use the "experiment" with different lengths way.
Norm B. That engine pictured is HUGE. I wonder what it's for?
Off to work outside. Everyone have a fantastic day. Fancy doesn't like going outside much anymore. Too cold for the little fella. So he makes up for it by riding along with when Angel and I take the Dakota someplace. We put the middle arm rest down and he uses that as his captain's seat.
Harry, Ken, and Jeff. A BIG THANK YOU!!! I know that my lift piece has some movement in the bracket and the round cross bar so I'll have to take that into consideration. The quickie bar I made the other day turned out to be just right for the "first snow removal" at 26" in length. The snowthrower didn't hit the ground as much and pick up as much loose gravel. I do have a three foot piece of 1/2 inch make a bolt rod so I think that I'll use the "experiment" with different lengths way.
Norm B. That engine pictured is HUGE. I wonder what it's for?
Off to work outside. Everyone have a fantastic day. Fancy doesn't like going outside much anymore. Too cold for the little fella. So he makes up for it by riding along with when Angel and I take the Dakota someplace. We put the middle arm rest down and he uses that as his captain's seat.
Marlin,
That engine is a Wartsila-Sulzer RTA96-C turbocharged two-stroke diesel engine built in Japan. It is available in 6 through 14 cylinder versions and each cylinder displaces 111,143 cubic inches. They were designed primarily for very large container ships.
Maximum power: 108,920 hp at 102 rpm
Maximum torque: 5,608,312 lb/ft at 102rpm
That engine is a Wartsila-Sulzer RTA96-C turbocharged two-stroke diesel engine built in Japan. It is available in 6 through 14 cylinder versions and each cylinder displaces 111,143 cubic inches. They were designed primarily for very large container ships.
Maximum power: 108,920 hp at 102 rpm
Maximum torque: 5,608,312 lb/ft at 102rpm
Good Morning Gang!
I just measured the rod that I made for the QA42A which includes a turnbuckle on one end and it it is doing a great job at an overall length C/C of 27.5".
The 28" non ajustable rod I had made per the block under the wheels method seemed to work well w/the blade but when I installed the lock pin in the rockshaft I could not gain the down pressure needed to avoid blade float as the 1.5" below level length in the rod was all used up just taking the "slop" out of all the mounting points. I could not force the blade down enough to get under the 1" or so of packed crusty snow on the blacktop that would just pop off using a steel snow shovel. So it's back to the welding table to incorporate a t/buckle with additional length capacity into the design. My suggestion would be to make several of them w/enough T/B travel to be used in both applications.
One more point on the rockshaft lock pin. The head of the pin rubs on the flange of the frame rail when near/at the lowest position!!! What's up with that?? Also, what's the secret to keeping the belt adjuster tight on the blower??
By the way, I'm now sold on the 42A. Amazing the diference a new tight belt, new tight set screws and a piece of 3/16" keyway stock will do!! I'm here to tll Ya it's a snowblowing machine. The 1650 handles it well andreally drinks the gas in the process though!!
Dave S
I just measured the rod that I made for the QA42A which includes a turnbuckle on one end and it it is doing a great job at an overall length C/C of 27.5".
The 28" non ajustable rod I had made per the block under the wheels method seemed to work well w/the blade but when I installed the lock pin in the rockshaft I could not gain the down pressure needed to avoid blade float as the 1.5" below level length in the rod was all used up just taking the "slop" out of all the mounting points. I could not force the blade down enough to get under the 1" or so of packed crusty snow on the blacktop that would just pop off using a steel snow shovel. So it's back to the welding table to incorporate a t/buckle with additional length capacity into the design. My suggestion would be to make several of them w/enough T/B travel to be used in both applications.
One more point on the rockshaft lock pin. The head of the pin rubs on the flange of the frame rail when near/at the lowest position!!! What's up with that?? Also, what's the secret to keeping the belt adjuster tight on the blower??
By the way, I'm now sold on the 42A. Amazing the diference a new tight belt, new tight set screws and a piece of 3/16" keyway stock will do!! I'm here to tll Ya it's a snowblowing machine. The 1650 handles it well andreally drinks the gas in the process though!!
Dave S
Dave,
I did the saem thing as Steve but I tapped the hole for a 1/4 - 20 and used a wing nut as the jam nut.
Dan,
I'd get under that tractor soon and get the ol' filter wrench out and see where you're at first.
Bill,
The jumper pack is you friend with these smaller batteries. I don't leave home without it when going to a Plow Day, Tractor show or whatever.
I did the saem thing as Steve but I tapped the hole for a 1/4 - 20 and used a wing nut as the jam nut.
Dan,
I'd get under that tractor soon and get the ol' filter wrench out and see where you're at first.
Bill,
The jumper pack is you friend with these smaller batteries. I don't leave home without it when going to a Plow Day, Tractor show or whatever.
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Bill J - I see Mike F forgot to add the prefix "Quick answer" to Yes.
Jeff - hey, it's afternoon your time. I thought you were going to give us the meaurements of your thrower and blade lift rods???? You're burning daylight!!!!
Marlin, Jeff, Ken, David - well the debate is still on. I do "think" the lift rods are the same length. I think IH used different part numbers because one of the rods uses a slight bend - now I'm not certain on that but some do have a bend - and I also know they tend to bend when dozing with a blade, and they also tend to straighten out when the blade is lifted. So it might be that the thrower rod is straight and the blade rod starts slightly bent. Ooh, and I wouldn't recommend down pressure when using the thrower. The thrower doesn't have a substantial cutting edge or housing, or even the auger itself. I'd certainly be afraid of twisting/bending the edge of the housing, or breaking the auger welds.
David G - If your 147 "small" hydro fluid leak is mostly just a "marks its spot" then yes it's most likely the cork gasket. Your 147 probably has the bypass fluid line on the bottom with right angle fittings. You could make sure those fittings are tight as well but it's somewhat unusual for those to leak unless you somehow bumped them going over something (which could happen). I'm gonna go out on a limb and say 99.9% of the time it's the "infamous cork gasket" causing the leak - and the 147 is one of the more difficult tractors to replace it on because it doesn't have the removable frame cover.
David S - I see Steve "Mr Plow" provided a very good suggestion on the belt. If you don't do something like that (and I never did) then you just have to keep an eye on it. When using the thrower on a Quiet Line tractor the belt tension is pulling down on the PTO until the ISO-bar snubbers are against the frame and I think that cushioning with the engine vibration causes the belt adjuster to work backwards. I believe the thrower instructions mention checking the belt tension each time before use - and to do that on a Quiet Line means removing the side panel so you can see when the belt adjustment is correct. Over time I knew approx where the adjuster handle would be when it was correct and could "get a feel" for when the belt had sufficient tension and didn't have to remove the side panel - so experience helps. One final comment - keep checking that set screw on the end of the drive shaft connecting to the gear box output shaft. That screw always comes loose and can ruin the shaft. I really think it was a design mistake by IH and the set screw should have been on the keyway side of the driveshaft. I thought it would come up in discussions here but hasn't that I know of. Wondering if anyone has added a set screw on the keyway side of the drive shaft.
Jeff - hey, it's afternoon your time. I thought you were going to give us the meaurements of your thrower and blade lift rods???? You're burning daylight!!!!
Marlin, Jeff, Ken, David - well the debate is still on. I do "think" the lift rods are the same length. I think IH used different part numbers because one of the rods uses a slight bend - now I'm not certain on that but some do have a bend - and I also know they tend to bend when dozing with a blade, and they also tend to straighten out when the blade is lifted. So it might be that the thrower rod is straight and the blade rod starts slightly bent. Ooh, and I wouldn't recommend down pressure when using the thrower. The thrower doesn't have a substantial cutting edge or housing, or even the auger itself. I'd certainly be afraid of twisting/bending the edge of the housing, or breaking the auger welds.
David G - If your 147 "small" hydro fluid leak is mostly just a "marks its spot" then yes it's most likely the cork gasket. Your 147 probably has the bypass fluid line on the bottom with right angle fittings. You could make sure those fittings are tight as well but it's somewhat unusual for those to leak unless you somehow bumped them going over something (which could happen). I'm gonna go out on a limb and say 99.9% of the time it's the "infamous cork gasket" causing the leak - and the 147 is one of the more difficult tractors to replace it on because it doesn't have the removable frame cover.
David S - I see Steve "Mr Plow" provided a very good suggestion on the belt. If you don't do something like that (and I never did) then you just have to keep an eye on it. When using the thrower on a Quiet Line tractor the belt tension is pulling down on the PTO until the ISO-bar snubbers are against the frame and I think that cushioning with the engine vibration causes the belt adjuster to work backwards. I believe the thrower instructions mention checking the belt tension each time before use - and to do that on a Quiet Line means removing the side panel so you can see when the belt adjustment is correct. Over time I knew approx where the adjuster handle would be when it was correct and could "get a feel" for when the belt had sufficient tension and didn't have to remove the side panel - so experience helps. One final comment - keep checking that set screw on the end of the drive shaft connecting to the gear box output shaft. That screw always comes loose and can ruin the shaft. I really think it was a design mistake by IH and the set screw should have been on the keyway side of the driveshaft. I thought it would come up in discussions here but hasn't that I know of. Wondering if anyone has added a set screw on the keyway side of the drive shaft.
Harry: The down pressure I was looking for was for the blade. The thrower is heavy enough to stay put pretty well what little experience I had yesterday. And there is enough "slop" in the mounts to provide float when usin the thrower.
The drive pulley on my unit has 2 set screws, one right on top of the keyway and a 2nd one 90deg from it. My screws are long w/a 3/8" square head and it Would be nice if there were room for a jam nut on them.
The drive pulley on my unit has 2 set screws, one right on top of the keyway and a 2nd one 90deg from it. My screws are long w/a 3/8" square head and it Would be nice if there were room for a jam nut on them.
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
David S - yes the drive pulley has 2 set screws. My reference was to the set screw in the drive "shaft" where the drive shaft connects to the right angle gear box. There is only 1 set screw in the drive shaft and it's opposite the keyway - and this set screw always always always comes loose. The set screw should be above the key and I just don't understand why IH did the drive shaft this way (or who ever made the drive shaft for IH).
Harry,
The lift rod for my blade is 28-3/4" (overall). It does have a slight bend. I believe that it is factory original. It works fine.
But, it would not work for the snowthrower, which is why I made the 27" lift rod.
Again, 1250 and QA-36A.
The lift rod for my blade is 28-3/4" (overall). It does have a slight bend. I believe that it is factory original. It works fine.
But, it would not work for the snowthrower, which is why I made the 27" lift rod.
Again, 1250 and QA-36A.
Just got done measuring the WF and NF NOS lift rod collection. And yes I have a collection, LOL
I measured a total of 11 lift rods with IH tags attached. And they varied in length from 1/4" to 5/8" in total length.
1. Narrow frame 32 3/4" OS to OS 32 1/4" hole to hole.
3. Wide frame 28 3/4" OS to OS 28 1/8" hole to hole.
QA36A/42A IH-548189-R1
QL/WF blade IH-548589-R1 Serial # 665000 and below
QL/WF blade IH-140090-C1 Serial # 665001 and above
QA36A/42A IH-548189-R1
NF front blade rod IH-473924-R1
BUT!
Going by the parts look up. The IH-473924-R1 rod for the NF blade will also fit a QA thrower.
So, this might take some digging in manuals and Service bulletins to figure out exactly what does what and where it really goes, LOL
Under Edit,
One also has to take into consideration that no matter what rod IH says fits, we have to take into account that after 40+ years, wear in the rod, brackets, rock shafts, lift arms and so on is going to have some bearing on what length any particular machine will use.
I measured a total of 11 lift rods with IH tags attached. And they varied in length from 1/4" to 5/8" in total length.
1. Narrow frame 32 3/4" OS to OS 32 1/4" hole to hole.
3. Wide frame 28 3/4" OS to OS 28 1/8" hole to hole.
QA36A/42A IH-548189-R1
QL/WF blade IH-548589-R1 Serial # 665000 and below
QL/WF blade IH-140090-C1 Serial # 665001 and above
QA36A/42A IH-548189-R1
NF front blade rod IH-473924-R1
BUT!
Going by the parts look up. The IH-473924-R1 rod for the NF blade will also fit a QA thrower.
So, this might take some digging in manuals and Service bulletins to figure out exactly what does what and where it really goes, LOL
Under Edit,
One also has to take into consideration that no matter what rod IH says fits, we have to take into account that after 40+ years, wear in the rod, brackets, rock shafts, lift arms and so on is going to have some bearing on what length any particular machine will use.
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Ken - if your lift rod for the blade is 28 3/4" overall then I'd guess it to be about 28" center to center, which seems right. I'm wondering how far your blade raises and lowers? If it only raises a couple inches and this same rod wouldn't work with your thrower then I think it's possible the spring roll pin in your lift arm handle (or rock shaft if you have the optional hydro lift) could be twisted. That roll pin does have to take alot of pressure/weight. As long as you're ok with your blade and thrower I wouldn't worry.
Charlie - (under edit) was wondering when you might pipe in. The Vikings game has been over for awhile. No mystery about the NF rod fiting a QA thrower to me, as long as you're talking about a QA36/QA42 with "no suffix letter". (as far as the variations in the rod lengths, I suspect they were laying in a hot place in your shop. At normal temps all thw WF rods would probably be 28" center to center.)
Charlie - (under edit) was wondering when you might pipe in. The Vikings game has been over for awhile. No mystery about the NF rod fiting a QA thrower to me, as long as you're talking about a QA36/QA42 with "no suffix letter". (as far as the variations in the rod lengths, I suspect they were laying in a hot place in your shop. At normal temps all thw WF rods would probably be 28" center to center.)
Harry B.
Show me a NOS one and I'll believe ya.
Non I have are 28" center to center.
Show me a NOS one and I'll believe ya.
Non I have are 28" center to center.
mhomrighausen
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- Marlin Homrighausen
So all this rod length talk reminds of a friend that years ago worked one summer n the Charles City Oliver Plant. He was making the pto shafts for IH and a couple of other companies that were farmed out to the Oliver plant. He went up to his foreman and said all the square metal pieces were 1/4" too long for the requirements and what should he do. The foreman thought for a minute and then said to go ahead and weld them just as they are. 1/4th inch isn't going to make that much difference. Like Charlie just stated.... after all these years of wear and tear there is bound to be some areas with play along the lines. We had a couple of distractions so I didn't get out into the garage today. Tomorrow for sure.
Harry,
My blade is 6-1/2" off of the floor in the last notch of the ratchet. If there was not so much wear and play, I believe it would be about 7-1/2".
I don't know how much below horizontal that the blade will drop. It seems to work OK.
My measurements are overall length. If you want center to center of the pins, subtract 1/2".
My blade is 6-1/2" off of the floor in the last notch of the ratchet. If there was not so much wear and play, I believe it would be about 7-1/2".
I don't know how much below horizontal that the blade will drop. It seems to work OK.
My measurements are overall length. If you want center to center of the pins, subtract 1/2".
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Harry,
Don't forget to install a cotter key in the hole on that shaft to keep the knuckle from coming all the way off should the set screw work loose. Also, I have seen these with long square headed set screws with jam nuts to prevent them from walking off the shaft.
Don't forget to install a cotter key in the hole on that shaft to keep the knuckle from coming all the way off should the set screw work loose. Also, I have seen these with long square headed set screws with jam nuts to prevent them from walking off the shaft.
This is the 122 that I got from the neighbor, Dec 12. I got the engine back together and the clutch plates removed and the rust off the faces of the plates. I'm going to remove the steering column and clean it out and tighten it up. I'm putting this back together without repainting for now. I used Castrol degreaser to wash all the algee and dirt off this morning.
hydroharry
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Charlie - must be your ruler. Mine only has marks ever inch.
Steve - that square headed set screw with a lock nut sounds like a good idea. Any thoughts on drilling and tapping a hole on the opposite side of the drive shaft so the key is held by a set screw?
Edward "Hot Rod" Lincoln - looks like you're at it again. If you're just cleaning and putting it back together I'd recommend leaving off that hydraulic lift set up. It's really probably to hard to re-mount and align it. Why don't you just install a manual arm-strong lift. I'd be glad to bring one down your way and swap ya even up for the one sitting on the floor. You don't have to even bother cleaning it up any more. I'll just take it the way it is with the rusty handle and stuff. Let me know.
Steve - that square headed set screw with a lock nut sounds like a good idea. Any thoughts on drilling and tapping a hole on the opposite side of the drive shaft so the key is held by a set screw?
Edward "Hot Rod" Lincoln - looks like you're at it again. If you're just cleaning and putting it back together I'd recommend leaving off that hydraulic lift set up. It's really probably to hard to re-mount and align it. Why don't you just install a manual arm-strong lift. I'd be glad to bring one down your way and swap ya even up for the one sitting on the floor. You don't have to even bother cleaning it up any more. I'll just take it the way it is with the rusty handle and stuff. Let me know.
