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Archive through December 20, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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jmmiller

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Mar 27, 2017
Messages
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Justin miller
<font color="ff0000">Yes Justin, I had to edit THIS post to put the pictures on SEPARATE lines</font>

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Thanks for the link to Speeco, checked them out but they don't have the lift arm leveling assemblies for the Cat 0.
They have the Cat 1 but I don't see any Cat 0 and the Cat 1 arms are too long.

Looks like they have almost the same things as HH has, as a matter of fact they could use the same catalog.

Thanks anyway, guess I will have to make them. I've built 3 proto types but not satisfied yet.

(Message edited by RChristensen on December 20, 2004)
 
They have adjustable top links for cat 0 but not lift arm leveling assemblies for cat 0 at least in my book the top links might be to long, closed length is13" open length is18" my cat 0 adjustment links are only 8" long. From bottom to mounting hole center that is 782D 3pt the 1872 3pt was not handy to measure that might be longer???
 
Justin
Eight inches max was what I was looking for in the adjustable lift link.
 
Justin & Richard,
I just called that 800 number and the gal said they had Cat.0 adjusters, unless she was fibbin.
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Does Anyone know a good way to secure the brinly sleeve hitch yoke to the lower Bracket.the 1"clevis and quick release cotter pin that came with it keep falling into the dirt/snow.I am also wondering what works best to secure the lift rod to the cast iron lift lever. other than that the rear blade works great as a driveway prep for the snow thrower. I may save some money on window glass this year!Thanks and Happy Holidays,
John
 
Charlie
I just called the 800 number and talked to a MAN and he said they didn't carry them.
Looks like women lie to you.
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The only level adjuster they have in my catalogue is a part # SL152 that one is 18.5" closed that’s a bit too long. Do you have a part # of the cat 0 adjuster? might be worth looking in to as for home made adjusters they do make top link ends for cat 0 if you could make some kind of an adjuster sleeve it might make a good durable alternative. Here is there spec sheet on it and a part #
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Don't forget you need R/L ends so making your own takes some scrounging for parts. I use to take R/L nuts and weld them on a black pipe then find the threaded ball ends.

<font color="0000ff">Richard</font> what's wrong with the ones you've tried making ?
 
AHEM!!!

May I remind folks that if you're going to post pictures, DO NOT post them side by side, put them on separate lines, especially if they're WIDE pictures? This is the SECOND time I've had to mention this.
 
Justin, Richard, or whoever asked...- get a right-left pair, and do like KenTuck says... it'll give you exactly what you want, with little cost and no headaches. If 'ya wanna be fancy, turn a slight shoulder in each nut, so it'll self-center with the pipe. If you wanna be fancy-strong, use thick-wall DOM tubing, and chamfer the edges first, then weld it in a lathe turning at creepin' speed.

(Message edited by dkamp on December 20, 2004)
 
Dave DOM is a little over kill don't ya think ?

I've even used the open frame big turn buckles , cut off the nut ends and weld them inside a pipe.

To add to Dave's "weld in lathe" comment ... for gawds sake cover the bedways !!

Whatever you make will be better than what you buy at most places anymore , every place I've seen the top links they've been made in china even what the Kubota dealer here sells ... same junk as at the flea market!

<font size="-2">... boy I wish I had some pictures to post ....</font>
 
Charlie -

Darn right - would ya rather listen to the Rev?
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I'll have to apologize too, I was side-by-side-ing last week. In my defense bad Terry made me do it.
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Dave,
Lathe? I just stick the tube straight up in the air and walk slowly around it when welding. Doesn't everybody weld tubes that way?
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Charlie,
What part of Minnesota is getting 4 inches!?!? I was thinking of loading up the cub and going for a drive!

(Message edited by tcbusch on December 20, 2004)
 
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