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Archive through December 20, 2004
- Thread starter jmmiller
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Richard,
You are probably going to find that Kraig's point about the length of the upper rockshaft arms is going to play into the overall lifting capacity of your 3 pt. IMHO, you are going to have to shorten thos things way up if you plan on having any lift capacity at the implament attachment point.
I hat to say it, but the JD 300 series have a nice functioning 3 pt. There is a thread over on the Restoration/Repair section of the WFM site that details someone recreating a 300 series 3 pt......might be worth checking out.
IMHO, the design Kriag posted pics of is the easiest way to build on-the-fly adjustability into the tugs. You don't need the crank to do it...it could be much lower profile with a simple heavy roll pin cross drilled thru the top of the shaft. Make the top connection a floating collar between your rockshaft "fork". Weld a nut to the top side of your threaded rod, slip in thru the collar and then build the bottom 1/2 like Mike M. did......not difficult and easily asjustable with a single thread...all RH. My $.02
You are probably going to find that Kraig's point about the length of the upper rockshaft arms is going to play into the overall lifting capacity of your 3 pt. IMHO, you are going to have to shorten thos things way up if you plan on having any lift capacity at the implament attachment point.
I hat to say it, but the JD 300 series have a nice functioning 3 pt. There is a thread over on the Restoration/Repair section of the WFM site that details someone recreating a 300 series 3 pt......might be worth checking out.
IMHO, the design Kriag posted pics of is the easiest way to build on-the-fly adjustability into the tugs. You don't need the crank to do it...it could be much lower profile with a simple heavy roll pin cross drilled thru the top of the shaft. Make the top connection a floating collar between your rockshaft "fork". Weld a nut to the top side of your threaded rod, slip in thru the collar and then build the bottom 1/2 like Mike M. did......not difficult and easily asjustable with a single thread...all RH. My $.02
Steve, as much as I like credit for good ideas, it was Ken that mentioned shortening the upper arms. 
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Here's the top of the JD CAT-0 link that Steve was referring to.
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Kraig,
Thanks for the correction...credit to Ken......
FWIW, I have NEVER seen a 3pt. with a true parallel linkage between the rockshaft, lift tugs, and lower arms.......bad for mechanical advantage, and hard to build strong.
Thanks for the correction...credit to Ken......
FWIW, I have NEVER seen a 3pt. with a true parallel linkage between the rockshaft, lift tugs, and lower arms.......bad for mechanical advantage, and hard to build strong.
rchristensen
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- Richard Christensen
Thanks to everone for the pictures and the comments on the 3 point, more information always creates a better finished product.
On shortening the upper rockshaft arms, I may do that on the final version but if you look at all the pictures here you will see nobody is fighting fenders. To get the arms out past the fenders and get the lift point over the lower arms on a Quietline or Wide frame while still using the original IH 3 point rockshaft connections point you need to extend the arms. If you look at a 782 they have the metal bracket mounted on the back of the frame which brings out the lift arms beyond the fenders. I am restricted with the fenders on how much I can rotate the upper lift arms.
Steve B.
On your comment on the lifting capacity are you talking capacity or height. I don't think it is going to be weak on lifting capacity and I had someone check on a newer MTD as to the height of the lift and he gave me a height at the rear swivel on the lower lift arms as 8 inches at the lowest point and 19 1/2 inches at the upper limit. That is what I have now and with adjustable lift links I can get lower limits. On the JD 300 lift I have one for a 140 and it is a sweet system with the ram built in and quick disconnect.
Paul F.
I would like to see some more pictures of your mini 560 3 point, if you want to send they to my Email. That is one nice machine.
Kraig
That AC looks like a good machine, it must be larger that a Cub.
Mike M.
I have been using that Peco vacuum system on the leaves and it is still working great.
On shortening the upper rockshaft arms, I may do that on the final version but if you look at all the pictures here you will see nobody is fighting fenders. To get the arms out past the fenders and get the lift point over the lower arms on a Quietline or Wide frame while still using the original IH 3 point rockshaft connections point you need to extend the arms. If you look at a 782 they have the metal bracket mounted on the back of the frame which brings out the lift arms beyond the fenders. I am restricted with the fenders on how much I can rotate the upper lift arms.
Steve B.
On your comment on the lifting capacity are you talking capacity or height. I don't think it is going to be weak on lifting capacity and I had someone check on a newer MTD as to the height of the lift and he gave me a height at the rear swivel on the lower lift arms as 8 inches at the lowest point and 19 1/2 inches at the upper limit. That is what I have now and with adjustable lift links I can get lower limits. On the JD 300 lift I have one for a 140 and it is a sweet system with the ram built in and quick disconnect.
Paul F.
I would like to see some more pictures of your mini 560 3 point, if you want to send they to my Email. That is one nice machine.
Kraig
That AC looks like a good machine, it must be larger that a Cub.
Mike M.
I have been using that Peco vacuum system on the leaves and it is still working great.
Kraig I drew up a sketch for RC and took a pic of the "monster" and sent it to him ... only to come back online and find your pics of an almost identical lift ... oh and I waited over an hour to recieve a phone call ... "call ya in 10 minutes" my butt !
... oh and I waited over an hour to recieve a phone call ... "call ya in 10 minutes" my butt !Richard shorten the rockshaft arms and bend them inboard to clear the fenders. Large tractors like Steve said have them closer together which keeps the lift pulled together thus not allowing them to swing and hit tires (plus the swing chains too). Shorter rockshaft arms = more grunt power but you'll need to keep the connections out further on the lift = less grunt = more lift height. Give one take one
I typed that bassackwards !
<font color="0000ff">"Shorter rockshaft arms = more grunt power but you'll need to keep the connections out further on the lift = less grunt = more lift height."</font>
Shorter rockshaft arms = more grunt power but you'll need to keep the connections <font color="0000ff">closer on the lift pivot</font> = less grunt = more lift height.
<font color="0000ff">"Shorter rockshaft arms = more grunt power but you'll need to keep the connections out further on the lift = less grunt = more lift height."</font>
Shorter rockshaft arms = more grunt power but you'll need to keep the connections <font color="0000ff">closer on the lift pivot</font> = less grunt = more lift height.
Forgot who sent that cool cement wheel weight, on the red tractor WOW! that is one robust muthuh. I think I'll do something similar, but with 3/4" ply and sonotube, with wire to replace the welded rebar. I might not do 90lbs per though. THANKS!! Dave
Good afternoon,
I got the K321AQS in my 124. Had to change out the flywheel, fan screen and fan shroud to allow it to fit the NF tractor. It is running just fine, no smoke and no knocking. This engine came out of a green brand of tractor. I noticed that my old tin won't fit the top of the head. The bolts on the 321 head are down below the cooling fins. Is there any way to attach the original tin to the head? I am concerned that the muffler is no longer supported at the forward mount location. I also have an oil leak at the governer shaft seal. Is this something I can tighten like a packing gland, or do I need to replace a seal?
David in Dayton, TX
I got the K321AQS in my 124. Had to change out the flywheel, fan screen and fan shroud to allow it to fit the NF tractor. It is running just fine, no smoke and no knocking. This engine came out of a green brand of tractor. I noticed that my old tin won't fit the top of the head. The bolts on the 321 head are down below the cooling fins. Is there any way to attach the original tin to the head? I am concerned that the muffler is no longer supported at the forward mount location. I also have an oil leak at the governer shaft seal. Is this something I can tighten like a packing gland, or do I need to replace a seal?
David in Dayton, TX
Paul D., nice job on the 1250! BTW, your garage is waaaaay to clean! )
)
P
pbrouillette
Guest
Nice 1250 Paul D. I am a big fan of the 1250 as you know. That hydro lift makes it look really clean. Great job! Paul B.
Went to Harbor Freight tonight to pick up a float Charger as recommended by Dave Kirk to find out that they were on sale for about $6.00..
Not only were they on sale but were out of stock until after X-mas....
Also out of stock on the small tire machine that Digger recommended...May not stock them again at this location...
On a lighter note...Got the hand-lift 169 in the garage and am ready to perform surgery...
Can't wait to get started
Hope every one has a good Holiday Weekend....
Not only were they on sale but were out of stock until after X-mas....
Also out of stock on the small tire machine that Digger recommended...May not stock them again at this location...
On a lighter note...Got the hand-lift 169 in the garage and am ready to perform surgery...
Can't wait to get started
Hope every one has a good Holiday Weekend....
