Archive through December 07, 2008
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Art, (and others)
The best tool for running that roll pin in on the drive shaft coupler is a air chisle and a "custom home made" bit. Take the roll pin to the bench grinder and take some of the edge off of it, place it in position, get the air chisle in position, and BBBBBBTTTTTT about two seconds, DONE!
Oh, and the swearin' usualy comes in when you put the 3 point hitch on.
The best tool for running that roll pin in on the drive shaft coupler is a air chisle and a "custom home made" bit. Take the roll pin to the bench grinder and take some of the edge off of it, place it in position, get the air chisle in position, and BBBBBBTTTTTT about two seconds, DONE!
Oh, and the swearin' usualy comes in when you put the 3 point hitch on.
mfrade
Well-known member
I had the pleasure of meeting Eric T yesterday. I bought some wheel weights from him and went up to New Hampshire to pick them up. I got to see tractor 595 while there! Also his post hole digger and trencher! And, he has at least one of every implement ever created! We chatted for what seemed like hours and soon I had to drive back. It was a great cub day for me! Thanks Eric!
ljerickson
Well-known member
I just read Greg Lippert's post about capscrews.
"Specifically, what the heck does "Znd" mean?
Ex: Screw, 3/8-16 X 1-1/2 Znd Hex Hd Cap Type 8"
Znd is likely to mean zinc-dichromate. Zinc-dichromate is a common plating used as a rust preventative on fasteners and other small steel parts. The shiny gold color capscrews that you see are probably zinc-dichromate.
Zinc-dichromate is a good plating on Grade 5 and lower strength bolts. On higher strength parts, it can cause the part to become brittle.
I've seen some plated Grade 8 capscrews on the market, but I won't be using them.
Lee
"Specifically, what the heck does "Znd" mean?
Ex: Screw, 3/8-16 X 1-1/2 Znd Hex Hd Cap Type 8"
Znd is likely to mean zinc-dichromate. Zinc-dichromate is a common plating used as a rust preventative on fasteners and other small steel parts. The shiny gold color capscrews that you see are probably zinc-dichromate.
Zinc-dichromate is a good plating on Grade 5 and lower strength bolts. On higher strength parts, it can cause the part to become brittle.
I've seen some plated Grade 8 capscrews on the market, but I won't be using them.
Lee
Kraiq, not sure what the problem was with the new govenor that i got with the .30 rebuild kit.I`am out in the cub shop and man i got some plie of work ahead of me. I bought new tri ribs for my O and have to replace another axel seal. the 129 loader is ready for prime and paint.I have to rewire the 125 and install the 12K from my loader for now so its mobile. The 147 needs the lift handle lock button replaced.. So much and the days go so fast.Today its clean up and work on my friends Ford F250D. Later all and have a great day. Don T
LEE - Saying yellow Zinc dichromate is a rust preventative ia stretching things a bit. I like the new RoHS compliant clear zinc dichromate myself. Looks like the old cad. pltg with the same salt spray protection of the old yellow zinc. Grd #8 hardware is more brittle by nature, Son has Our ASM Metals Desk Reference handbook but if I remember right You can "Bake" out the hydrogen that causes the brittleness @ 400 deg. F for an hour. My favorite hardware store, Farm & Fleet has stopped handling any plated grd #8 hardware, but My "Specialty Fsstener store" still uses grade #8 in yellow zinc, local ACE hrdwr store.
Most IH Parts Books I've seen (I've got LOTS!) have a glossary of terms in the front to describe what all the abbreviations mean.
Most IH Parts Books I've seen (I've got LOTS!) have a glossary of terms in the front to describe what all the abbreviations mean.
Kendall, that v/r is a replacement for a Delco v/r, most of the stuff I get at NAPA usually says the part number it replaces on the box. I'm going to try it out. It's not like I can make my electrical issue any worse, I hope. From what I gather it's also a replacement for older Sears tractors too, which ran the Delco v/r back in the late 60's and early 70's. I really need to take it up to my grandads garage, where I can work in some heat, it's been hovering in the mid to lower 20's all week and my hands get too cold too fast to really accomplish anything. I hope to have this fixed before we get snow, if we ever get it that is. I want to take the harness out and inspect it for any shorts and then double check the wire diagram to make sure it's 100%. It kills me that such a simple set up is giving me soo much trouble. I'm going to check it with a meter as well, I have to borrow one but its worth trouble I think. Hoping to have it fixed before the end of next week.
klejeune
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- Keith LeJeune
I have a "Look what followed me home" and "Happy birthday to me" story...
127 built Oct 1969. 48" deck and IH spring assist.
My wife took this on the way home. She missed a better shot, but as the road turned it started getting away from us.
Oh, and I got this a few weeks early of my birthday.
My plan is to mount the snow thrower I got from Jerry B on this. It's electriclly challenged, so I'll have to work on that. First is to change engine oil and check the Hy-tran. I don't have a spare filter, or I'd change the hydro fluid now.
127 built Oct 1969. 48" deck and IH spring assist.
My wife took this on the way home. She missed a better shot, but as the road turned it started getting away from us.
Oh, and I got this a few weeks early of my birthday.
My plan is to mount the snow thrower I got from Jerry B on this. It's electriclly challenged, so I'll have to work on that. First is to change engine oil and check the Hy-tran. I don't have a spare filter, or I'd change the hydro fluid now.
ljerickson
Well-known member
Dennis,
Before I retired, I had some experience with heat treated ZD Grade 8 capscrews and it didn't turn out well in production. Not to say, someone couldn't make it turn out right, but I'm skeptical.
I haven't had any experience with the RoHs compliant clear zn-dichromate, but maybe the EU did us all a favor.
I've had some experience with the proprietary Dacromet coating. This does not cause brittleness, and is a very good rust preventative.
Lee
Before I retired, I had some experience with heat treated ZD Grade 8 capscrews and it didn't turn out well in production. Not to say, someone couldn't make it turn out right, but I'm skeptical.
I haven't had any experience with the RoHs compliant clear zn-dichromate, but maybe the EU did us all a favor.
I've had some experience with the proprietary Dacromet coating. This does not cause brittleness, and is a very good rust preventative.
Lee
Update on the 1650
had some time this morning and changed the wire from the points to the coil took a different coil condenser and plug wire from a running tractor, my JD 140 also checked the ground between the starter and frame checked the battey from tight terminals and a good ground ...
then went to push snow
she ran at 1/2 throttle for 1/2 an hour or better with no issues then I got brave I pushed the throttle all the way forward the 16 ran for about 3 minutes great the fell flat on her face... it started cutting out and spitting and sputtering and back firing until it died... ... backed the throttle down to 1/2 again it runs perfectly ...The next time that I get to play around with it again I will change batteries .
Could it be the float level in my carb if so how do you change that???
any other thoughts or advise???
I'm confused
had some time this morning and changed the wire from the points to the coil took a different coil condenser and plug wire from a running tractor, my JD 140 also checked the ground between the starter and frame checked the battey from tight terminals and a good ground ...
then went to push snow
she ran at 1/2 throttle for 1/2 an hour or better with no issues then I got brave I pushed the throttle all the way forward the 16 ran for about 3 minutes great the fell flat on her face... it started cutting out and spitting and sputtering and back firing until it died... ... backed the throttle down to 1/2 again it runs perfectly ...The next time that I get to play around with it again I will change batteries .
Could it be the float level in my carb if so how do you change that???
any other thoughts or advise???
I'm confused
cold weather ??'s
should I change oil to a 5w-20 for winter? have 30W in it now and it will be inside the unheated garage till needed. also would a mag. block heater like Advance sells,put on rear of trans help kick er over? it's 107 hydro trans.
I went to start today and it cranked s-l-o-w. belt was loose,tightened it up and chargin up battery now to see if thatll help. no problems starting in summer. was going to get all the rear hitch and lift assist +lift arm bracket on, cept for still havent found the right size u-bolt for the l.a.bracket.
DTanner- how can you find anything in a garage that organized? that must save hours of diggin and prospecting for the right part/tool/thingie when workin on a cubbie, hope my cub doesnt find out itll want a nice neat garage too.
should I change oil to a 5w-20 for winter? have 30W in it now and it will be inside the unheated garage till needed. also would a mag. block heater like Advance sells,put on rear of trans help kick er over? it's 107 hydro trans.
I went to start today and it cranked s-l-o-w. belt was loose,tightened it up and chargin up battery now to see if thatll help. no problems starting in summer. was going to get all the rear hitch and lift assist +lift arm bracket on, cept for still havent found the right size u-bolt for the l.a.bracket.
DTanner- how can you find anything in a garage that organized? that must save hours of diggin and prospecting for the right part/tool/thingie when workin on a cubbie, hope my cub doesnt find out itll want a nice neat garage too.
stanner
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- Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
Harry,
I have run 5W-50 full synthetic in my 149 for at least 15 years, no issues, and it will start when cold. The other half of sloooowww cranking is the hydro oil, which a magnetic heater will cure... HTH
I have run 5W-50 full synthetic in my 149 for at least 15 years, no issues, and it will start when cold. The other half of sloooowww cranking is the hydro oil, which a magnetic heater will cure... HTH
Harry yes change the oil, as far as a heater goes I used a kats magnetic block heater on my 1450 last year it did a great job. Just stick it on the back pumkin for about 1-1.5 hrs before use and its all nice and warm...
kide
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- Gerry Ide
Harry M:
If you don't have the operators manual, the Kohler manual (available on line, check the FAQs for a link) should be a good starting place when you need to know things like "what oil for low temps?"...
Disregard the handprints - I've got a "little person" working on the PC today, he didn't get out of the way....
If you don't have the operators manual, the Kohler manual (available on line, check the FAQs for a link) should be a good starting place when you need to know things like "what oil for low temps?"...
Disregard the handprints - I've got a "little person" working on the PC today, he didn't get out of the way....
still no start yet but I will let battery charge couple hours. cranking faster but still not like in summer. its 20 in garage right now. Im going to get a heater tomorrow at advance. once i start the ol girl and switch garage (where the torpedo heater is-I can get it 65 in there) ill change oil.
I read about the hydro oil givin some cold weather drag, guess thats part of problem -dont believe theres any other problem just seems like not cranking fast enuff. Gonna get new battery too this one is at least 3year old wallyworld. probably past its prime.not unlike tractor's owner.
I read about the hydro oil givin some cold weather drag, guess thats part of problem -dont believe theres any other problem just seems like not cranking fast enuff. Gonna get new battery too this one is at least 3year old wallyworld. probably past its prime.not unlike tractor's owner.
Keith LeJeune – Nice find on the 127. It'll never cease to amaze me the creative ways individuals plot to avoid mounting seats to tractors in the way manufacture intended.
Aatay - I know you're absolutely correct on the notch in the hood at the exhaust outlet location. I hadn't thought of that but it makes perfectly good sense.
Any suggestions on a manufacture for ribbed front tires that come close to matching OEM ribbed front tires (I don't mean tri-rib tires)? Is the Carlisle Straight Rib tires what a lot of the forum members here using - anybody? I was looking into those and thought I would get an opinion from the forum????? I apologize if this is a stupid question on my part.
Kenneth
Aatay - I know you're absolutely correct on the notch in the hood at the exhaust outlet location. I hadn't thought of that but it makes perfectly good sense.
Any suggestions on a manufacture for ribbed front tires that come close to matching OEM ribbed front tires (I don't mean tri-rib tires)? Is the Carlisle Straight Rib tires what a lot of the forum members here using - anybody? I was looking into those and thought I would get an opinion from the forum????? I apologize if this is a stupid question on my part.
Kenneth
hello guys spent a few hours today cleaning the contacs on all the eletical parts and checked the wireing harness i also charged the batt up and i still cant get it to turn over not even a lil i just turn the key and noting happens i dont know whats wrong? please help
It started- with a bit of throttle play and choke only while cranking- soon as it fired choke was not needed. course I havent started it for like 3 months or more. So I will go over all grounds,new battery,heater, oil change,throw a new plug in her too. Backed out into lot,ran it 15 minutes,ran ok no misfires,but still didnt sound right when trying to start it, like it was misfiring till it cranked fast enuff to catch.
Oh well Cubs are new to me so always fun to learn something new.(insert scream here) If it was a Bbody wagon I'd know right where to use hammer to start it.....Oh I guess I better get some new headlights for it too, it was dark out there.
Oh well Cubs are new to me so always fun to learn something new.(insert scream here) If it was a Bbody wagon I'd know right where to use hammer to start it.....Oh I guess I better get some new headlights for it too, it was dark out there.
