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Archive through August 31, 2013

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Frank,
Getting the younger generation interested more in this hobby sounds like a good plan,as we are not getting any younger.

Luther,
Turn key ones are the best to find obviously,but the last 3 I got ,70 has a broken rod,1650 was rolled down a hill and the 1810 had the driveshaft let go and wiped out the wire harness,filter,and the ball bushing coupler,missing motor bolts were the culprit.
These have names too,but I can not type them here...

262271.jpg


262272.jpg
 
Will this fit a 1650 I can't find this type sub frame with straight arms to determine what it will fit. I'm wanting to buy it for my 1650.

262278.jpg
 
Keith: My initial reaction is that it belongs on a narrow frame and that I really like the way the pic is framed.
happy.gif
 
Thanks for the info, not worth a 300 mile trip one way to buy something that don't fit.
 
I just purchased a 147 to go with my 126. The 147 goes twice as fast in reverse as in forward (very fast) I have the repair manual and have read many post, but do not see this exact problem. Should it be as easy as adjusting the linkage to reset neutral?
 
Hello Stuart N., welcome to the site! You and I are real close to each other, I'm just 1 town over!

I believe your on the right track, check the FAQ's as I know there's a couple of techs that deal with the adjustments.
 
Stuart N.
It's always a good idea to do the neutral adjust on any new Cub IMO.
But, I would also switch the relief valves and see if it makes is go really fast forward and slow in reverse.
If it does, you might get lucky by cleaning them, if not, it's new valve time.
 
Quick paint question: anyone know if the bail wire on the oil bath air cleaners for Originals was painted or bare? Thanks
 
Stuart-

Do you know whether anyone has been into the hydro pump on the 147? I'd check out all of the things that have been suggested but if it still does it you may have a reversed swashplate inside of the hydro pump. It's very easy to do by someone not going by the book. In this case you will simply have to remove the pump and get the plate turned around.

It will be a major job but doable. I hope this isn't the case but if it is you will learn soooo much about your 147 whether you want to or not.
 
Pay attention Terry.
The engines were painted after they were assembled, except for the muffler, coil wire, gas tank decals and maybe S/G belt, although I have seen some with yellow paint on them. The data plates on the engine and starter generator were masked off or installed after painting, probably masked off since that is what was done on the Farmall Cub and other Louisville models.
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262298.jpg

Pictures from the Wisconsin Historical Society site.
 
HAs anyone tried burning E85 in their Cubs? Do you think it would burn too hot? No plastic to melt.(?)
 
Tom: For what it is worth, most of the operator's manuals for newer equipment specifically stipulate that the engine is not designed for fuels with more than 10% ethanol. Using it in the engine voids the warranty. I imagine that the older Kohler engines would suffer the same restrictions. On the other hand, I know one guy who burns alcohol in his Cub. Installed a racing go-kart carburetor to handle the mixing duties.
 
The air/gas ratio is around 12.5/1 for reg ular gas. E85 is more like 8.5/1 so you would have to richer it up alot. Once it's set right, it will actually run alot cooler than normal gas. Alcohol gets cold when it moves. Plus, any rubber seals or hoses that touch it will dissolve in just a few weeks. You would have to replace all those with alcohol compliant stuff.
So in the end, it would run cooler but consume alot more fuel being so rich.
 
Allen, that's pretty cool... Feels like off topic advertising, but cool. I've been looking at the same thing from MBE Motorsports.
 
Wondering if the mule drive on my 73 must be left off the tractor in order to mount the front blade? I'm thinking the two aren't compatible with each other...
 
Steve, that is correct, the mule drive is left off to mount up that blade.
 

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