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Archive through August 30, 2006

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Oh, I like that wooden one. Thats my kind of cheap, and I can work with wood. Cant for the life of me figure what good those skinny transverse slats are supposed be doing (especialy on the underside), but I can build a beefier version in 15 minutes. Think I'll go try and do that right now, thanks for the idea!


Wayne
 
I will post Pics this evening. I really am glad I found this site. Am planning winter restoration of tractor including engine rebuild (my father calls it old smokey) and I believe this site will be lots of help.
 
Baffle
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Alan, the baffle is the curved part that is on the bottom of the deck that curves around the blade. It helps guide the airflow to lift the blades of grass and to direct them out the discharge chute.

39587.jpg
 
Talking about wheel weights...took my 'new' 147 out to pull up a shrub in the garden. Figured 800 lbs. of steel and macho gonads would do the job! Well, operator is exhausted, shrub still in the ground, but got lovely slick marks all over the back lawn! Plan B tomorrow. (comealong to a tree)
 
Allen,
Ya need a gear drive, not one of those winey slushies!
 
Is a 54 inch dozer blade overkill for snow removal on my 108? Would I be better off with a 42"?

I got my weight platform built this afternoon out of 2x4s, it holds 250 lbs easy and was very quick and almost free.


Wayne
 
Ray, Charlie, LOL!!
fence.gif
let the fights begin...
Allen, dynamite works well on those stubborn shrubs
explotar2jr.gif
... if you can find it... did you dig out around the root system?
with that much weight i would think it be no problem.
nice pics everybody. on homemade wheel weights or weights for that matter, has anyone thought of useing lead? when i helped my uncle on his racecar
we went around to alot of tire shops and they gave us all the old tire weights from the vehicles they changed tires on. we(he) had a propane burner and a half gallon cast iron pot, we melted the tire weights and when the lead melted the steel clips from them would float to the top, we scooped those out with a cast iron spoon. we used a stock small block chevy valve cover as a mold, if i remember right when you got the cover half full(two pots) that was forty pounds. let it cool, it slide right out of the valve cover, drilled holes(thats the hardest part) and bolted to the frame rail for weight. Tony
 
wayne, i think you'd be better of with the 42" blade. IMHO. the 54", thats alot, but some others may have used it on a 108. the only other thing i can say is try it and see what happens! but i think you'll like the 42" better...
 
Help! I went to fire the cub up and there's no fire. I just replaced the hole system not more than a year and a half ago; coil, condenser,points, plug and wire. I've got voltage to the coil and it just ran the day before with no problems. May be my coil is defective? Any ideas.
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Brian...may not be ignition. The float valve in my 147 been sticking closed recently. no gas-no run. put a piece of metal in the end of the plug wire and put it near metal, see if you get any type of spark. At least you'll know if its elec or fuel prob.
 
brian can you tell if theres power on the neg. or point side of the coil? i use a 12V circuit tester when your cranking the engine the light will flash(making and breaking contact). that means the points are working. take no offense but is there fuel in the gas tank?. if you dont have the tester, remove the plug and if it "looks" good, ground it to the engine and crank it over and see if you have spark. if you dont,try another plug 'cause if the plug is shorted it wont jump the gap. any plug will work for testing, just gap it at.035"
 
Allen, got fuel and Anthoney thanks,no offens taken, frankly I've done dumber in the past. The test light is a good idea I do have voltage on the negative side as well. The first thing I did is stick a plug in and check it against ground; nothing. I'm done for the night and busy tommorow so I guess it'll wait till the weekend.

Thanks to all who weighed in!
 
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