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Archive through August 28, 2011
- Thread starter rmcshane
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
mwilkinson
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- matt wilkinson
Hey all was just wondering if anybody had any ideas on what kind of cub cadet a first time cub cadet buyer and rebuileder should be looking at? Any pros or cons on any certain models
thanks
thanks
Matt- I would go with a 122 if you want an old cub cadet that you can also find alot of attachments for. But my first cub cadet was a cub cadet original but the originals are hard to find attachments and if you do there really expensive. But the originals are a good cub cadet if you want to be more of a collector.
TOM - In talking to my buddy, I got the impression there was only about 50 or so Cub Cadets. Looks like a L-O-T more than that were there!
That place is a really NEAT place for a tractor show, as long as you don't mind the occasional interuption for a plane to land or take-off. It's still an operating air field. And if you've never been inside a airplane hanger you need to go there in two years. I think ALL the farm equipment, cars, & trucks Dad ever owned would fit in one corner of the normal hanger there with room left over. REALLY big buildings.
That place is a really NEAT place for a tractor show, as long as you don't mind the occasional interuption for a plane to land or take-off. It's still an operating air field. And if you've never been inside a airplane hanger you need to go there in two years. I think ALL the farm equipment, cars, & trucks Dad ever owned would fit in one corner of the normal hanger there with room left over. REALLY big buildings.
MATT W. - Interesting question, I think the best answer is what NOT to get, as William said, Originals are neat, but are THE odd-ball CC.
I'm not real fond of Quiet-Lines, the rubber mounted engines and side panels, bendix style starter and elec. PTO clutch was all introduced on them. BTW, it was the ONLY IH tractor that the engine was rubber mounted in, which should imply something.
But anything from a 70/100 to 86/1X8/1X9 and all the red tractors, 482,582,682,782,982 are all good. I'm partial to gear drives since the rearends are just about impossible to tear up.
I'm not real fond of Quiet-Lines, the rubber mounted engines and side panels, bendix style starter and elec. PTO clutch was all introduced on them. BTW, it was the ONLY IH tractor that the engine was rubber mounted in, which should imply something.
But anything from a 70/100 to 86/1X8/1X9 and all the red tractors, 482,582,682,782,982 are all good. I'm partial to gear drives since the rearends are just about impossible to tear up.
fcurrier
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- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
Matt: I'd vote for the 149 with hydraulic lift. 169 might be the epitome but it's just a 149 with a 16hp engine and the 16hp needs more different repair parts than the 12 & 14hp Kohlers. Of course, I'm partial to the hydros.
Whatever you get, and no matter how many different ones, the one you're using at the time will be your "best one".
P.S. Let us know what you end up with??
P.S. Let us know what you end up with??
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Matt-
The 'best' one is going to be a matter of your opinion, and no one else's, as you can see, given the variety of responses you already have. Buy one that feels like a good deal to you, regardless of model, and then decide what you actually want.
When I got into this about 8 years ago, I wanted a 122, wound up with a 100, and now I have a bunch of 82 series tractors. You have to form your own opinions about what you like.
Wayne-
I think Allen is wondering if you got the charge pump on upside-down. Also make sure the little drive pin is still in there, too.
The 'best' one is going to be a matter of your opinion, and no one else's, as you can see, given the variety of responses you already have. Buy one that feels like a good deal to you, regardless of model, and then decide what you actually want.
When I got into this about 8 years ago, I wanted a 122, wound up with a 100, and now I have a bunch of 82 series tractors. You have to form your own opinions about what you like.
Wayne-
I think Allen is wondering if you got the charge pump on upside-down. Also make sure the little drive pin is still in there, too.
mhomrighausen
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- Marlin Homrighausen
Wayne s. Please don't ever think that you're wearing out the welcome mat.
It's hard to walk someone through something if you don't have pictures or can't be there. Coming to the Forum and askng for others thoughts is a great idea. Matt G. and Allen S. have made some good suggestions.
Wayne Shytle
I would pull the drives shaft to one side and take the two bolts out of the charge pump and see if the pin is in place.The shaft can turn in the pump in the hydro at the back and not make any pressure if the pump pin is broken or missed at the time you put it back together. I can`t think of anything else that could be a problem .
I would pull the drives shaft to one side and take the two bolts out of the charge pump and see if the pin is in place.The shaft can turn in the pump in the hydro at the back and not make any pressure if the pump pin is broken or missed at the time you put it back together. I can`t think of anything else that could be a problem .
<u>THEE BEST CUB CADET</u> is one you can afford to buy, afford to work on, repair to the best of your ability, and the one you have the most fun doing all of the above. They are <u>all</u> great little machines. Have fun with it.
Dennis,
They were looking for 100 Originals, but I think they didn't make that. Still had lots-o-Cub Cadets though. They had corn picking, plowing, cultivating, bean picking, hourse demos,excavating demos...... If one went to the show and didn't have a good time, something is wrong with 'em.
They were looking for 100 Originals, but I think they didn't make that. Still had lots-o-Cub Cadets though. They had corn picking, plowing, cultivating, bean picking, hourse demos,excavating demos...... If one went to the show and didn't have a good time, something is wrong with 'em.
Today I have loosened the engine and driveshaft twice to check the charge pump. When I removed it initially I made a mark with a file on the top towards the relief valves. I've done this in the past and it works well with CRS. Even knowing that I turned the pump over and gave it a try....nothing. I had an extra set of relief valves and tried them to no avail. I went ahead and turned the charge pump back over and checked the pin which is fine and in place.
I wouldn't be surprised if I left a rag or something in the darn thing. Anytime there is an open port I will stick something in it for protection from dirt. This is just a guess and I'm pretty sure I didn't overlook any. I don't have gauges to check pressures but this pump was working and now it doesn't.
I want to exhaust all possibilities before splitting this tractor again. I put the slotted bracket about midway for starters. I had to adjust the "T" bar in the "Y" slot but it is a tad clear now when the pedal is down with everything going to neutral. The trunion arm moves the normal travel when shifting. I double checked the swashplate position and kept the blocks separate when cleaning. I didn't pay any attention to the order the pistons came out so they went back in random order. I've read it doesn't matter as long as the piston and cylinder is clean. I soaked everything in fresh Hytran during reassembly. I replaced the four lip seals and the charge pump o-ring. I cut a new housing gasket using good quality material the same thickness and it fit well. I made a neoprene pump gasket like I've done before.
I need ideas on what to check before the split.
Thanks for all of the input.
I wouldn't be surprised if I left a rag or something in the darn thing. Anytime there is an open port I will stick something in it for protection from dirt. This is just a guess and I'm pretty sure I didn't overlook any. I don't have gauges to check pressures but this pump was working and now it doesn't.
I want to exhaust all possibilities before splitting this tractor again. I put the slotted bracket about midway for starters. I had to adjust the "T" bar in the "Y" slot but it is a tad clear now when the pedal is down with everything going to neutral. The trunion arm moves the normal travel when shifting. I double checked the swashplate position and kept the blocks separate when cleaning. I didn't pay any attention to the order the pistons came out so they went back in random order. I've read it doesn't matter as long as the piston and cylinder is clean. I soaked everything in fresh Hytran during reassembly. I replaced the four lip seals and the charge pump o-ring. I cut a new housing gasket using good quality material the same thickness and it fit well. I made a neoprene pump gasket like I've done before.
I need ideas on what to check before the split.
Thanks for all of the input.
Wayne - You did put fluid in didn't you ?
A friend and I stripped down his '58 Duo Glide Harley and painted it , then after it was back together we kicked that sucker until we were blue in the face and his cousin walks up and asked if we put gas in it ... surprising how easy it started with gas in it !
A friend and I stripped down his '58 Duo Glide Harley and painted it , then after it was back together we kicked that sucker until we were blue in the face and his cousin walks up and asked if we put gas in it ... surprising how easy it started with gas in it !
fcurrier
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- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
Wayne: It Happens!
By Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine) (Fcurrier) on Wednesday, July 01, 2009 - 09:01 am:
Here's me this morning: (blush)
Don T., your "glob and suction" comment was right on! Last night I bolted the 123 back together but left the linkage and driveshaft for this morning. At 2am I woke up wondering if maybe I'd left the paper towel that I'd used to sop up the last of the old oil in the bottom of the rear housing in there when I refilled it. Long story short, I did. It's embarassing to admit it, but maybe it will keep someone else from making the same dumb mistake!
On the up side, I was able to take the top cover off, reach inside, and the towel came out in one piece. I found this tractor already has a neoprene pump gasket, and have become quite adept at splitting and putting a narrow frame back together. A small floor jack on wheels and jack stands are a great help. I'll be back this afternoon with pics of my modified-for-me 123.
Thanks to all who tried to help, not believing someone could make such a dumb mistake!
By Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine) (Fcurrier) on Wednesday, July 01, 2009 - 09:01 am:
Here's me this morning: (blush)
Don T., your "glob and suction" comment was right on! Last night I bolted the 123 back together but left the linkage and driveshaft for this morning. At 2am I woke up wondering if maybe I'd left the paper towel that I'd used to sop up the last of the old oil in the bottom of the rear housing in there when I refilled it. Long story short, I did. It's embarassing to admit it, but maybe it will keep someone else from making the same dumb mistake!
On the up side, I was able to take the top cover off, reach inside, and the towel came out in one piece. I found this tractor already has a neoprene pump gasket, and have become quite adept at splitting and putting a narrow frame back together. A small floor jack on wheels and jack stands are a great help. I'll be back this afternoon with pics of my modified-for-me 123.
Thanks to all who tried to help, not believing someone could make such a dumb mistake!
Ken-
Yes I put fluid in. I even primed the relief valve holes. Another member suggested (via telephone) I fill the oil filter before installing it which I did not. I plan to try that first thing in the morning.
I'm going to do everything I can before the third split. I am getting good at it though.
Frank-
It takes a hell of a man to admit to mistakes like that. I figure if a surgeon can leave a sponge inside someone and get over it I'll be fine. I don't know that to be the case yet though. I'm just preparing myself for anything.
Please keep the ideas coming guys and thanks!
Yes I put fluid in. I even primed the relief valve holes. Another member suggested (via telephone) I fill the oil filter before installing it which I did not. I plan to try that first thing in the morning.
I'm going to do everything I can before the third split. I am getting good at it though.
Frank-
It takes a hell of a man to admit to mistakes like that. I figure if a surgeon can leave a sponge inside someone and get over it I'll be fine. I don't know that to be the case yet though. I'm just preparing myself for anything.
Please keep the ideas coming guys and thanks!
