Archive through August 26, 2008

[kpecor]

Good Day All,
Meathead here again. I have cleaned the carb and as you had mentioned Kraig, the saftey switch was not being compressed as the flimsy piece of metal was flexing to much. I added a little grease to assist with the switch to make it go in and out easier...

My issue now is the starter gen will only turn over if I manually turn it a few times... Then when I turn the key it will turn over... Any thoughts?

Thanks again,
Kevin in Vermont

 

[kmcconaughey]

Kevin, possibly a bad ground connection, or worn brushes in the Starter/Generator, or bad bearings in the Starter/Generator, or the contacts in the key switch are corroded, or a bad connection somewhere, or multiples of the above or could be something completely different.

I'd check the ground connections first.

Dustin, not sure about pulley diameters. Which belt are you looking for the length of, the spindle belt or the drive belt?

 

[kpecor]

I will attempt to clean the connections and go from there. If that doesn't work, I will buy a new s/g. I hear of people rebuilding them, how hard is this and what kind of tools are needed.

Thanks for the help again, I cannot thank the smart people here...

 

[kmcconaughey]

Kevin, it's not hard to replace the brushes, not to hard to replace the bearings either, hardest part sometimes is getting the pulley off. If it needs more then brushes or bearings it's best to take it in to a electric shop for a rebuild.

 

[pearp]

hey guys, looking for an opinion here, I just bought a 129 with a bad motor (smokes like a freight train, but the hydros perfect and the rest of the tractor is very nice) and with this tractor I also got another good running 12 horse kohler from a 1200 with electric PTO and solid state ign., should I even bother tryin to put this newer 12 on here until I can get the original engine rebuilt? or would it be too much work to mess with?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Jerry B., I have my grease gun at the ready, however THANK YOU for the reminder!

I also need to remember to grease the spindles, axle pivot, and rear axle bushings, put oil in the engine crankcase and oil-bath air filter, Hy-Tran in the transmission/differential and gas in the tank. I'd hate to be so excited that it was all together and then forget one of those critical steps.

 

[jbliler]

Kraig,wasn't trying to be a pain but I had to do it the hard way. Hated to have it throw grease all over under there but now will take the grease any day. Have I ever told how much fun it is to get tall grass and weeds cut from around that driveshaft????? I can say now to stay out of the tall stuff. Thanks.

 

[kide]

Rob N:
I just figured that possibly a little (lot?)of "eye, eye, ramming speed, Captain" had been in play, involving a curb or frozen snow bank (usually can tell by the shape of the steering wheel, too). I think mine got sprung from tipping over sideways in the garage during summer storage..I just spread 'em back out.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Jerry B., you certainly are not being a pain! I appreciate the reminder/heads up. Thanks for the tip regarding tall grass too.

 

[rvanmersbergen]

TY Kendall and Todd, You mentioned 2 things one was the ground (recently repainted) that I can check, and the other is timing. What is the procedure for checking and or correcting that?

 

[bmcmeen]

Kraig -

We (you know who) were so excited assembling my Original that we forgot to put the breather filter in.

 

[bnolte]

Parker,

The K301 should work, but keep in mind a couple of things:

The crankshaft should be the same diameter and length- 2 7/8 inches long and 1 inch in diameter on the PTO end. The other thing is to keep in mind is that the newer motors use a gear driven starter and an alternator mounted under the flywheel.

Might have to swap some parts around if you want to keep the 129 "correct" though.

 

[kide]

Ray V:
FAQ 6 shows where to get the Kohler manual for your engine. I highly recommend that you download it, read Section 4 in its entirety, and then for how to set timing move on to Section 8.3..

 

[swebre]

Need some help Folks,

Need a hydrostatic transmissions for a 1650 Quietline project.

Since 1650's seem to be scarce in this area,where can I find out which transmissions were used in what tractors?

Are all the hydrostatics the same or do they have minor differences (gearing, pressure valves, etc) ?

Thanks in advance!

-Steve-
Broussard LA


.
w/ a babought a

 

[thoffman]

Couple of good tractor/steam show this weekend. Rock River Show in Edgerton Wisconsin and The Pontiac Show in Pontiac Illinois. I'll be in Edgerton on Saturday.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Steve, you'll just need a rear end that has a Hydrostatic pump that has the hydraulic lift ports and the same brake setup as on yours. During the Quiet Line series they switched from external brakes back to the internal brake setup. Is it the entire rear end that you are swapping or just the Hydrostatic pump? What's wrong that you think you need to swap rear ends?

Bryan, you were both excited or was it just you asking "Can I drive it yet? Can I? Can I? Can I drive it now? Can I? Can I?...." And who could blame ya!

BTW, a package arrived today, and one will be going out in tomorrow's mail.

 

[aaytay]

Kraig-
Here's another bit of Original assembly advice...

Never install the rear tires at 2:30am!

 

[digger]

Well we made if back from up north one more time.
Just had to bring back one of those northern Cubs.
Not a bad little tractor. 14 horse and all.

 

[jdreaves]

169 HYDRAULIC LIFT.

I have a 169 that had a manual lift installed at the factory because of the shortage of hydraulic valve assemblies during production. I understand these models were built with the hydraulics ready for retrofit of the hydraulic lift? I have purchased a complete hydraulic lift to install in my 169. Mr. Bedell sent me some instructions for installation of the hydraulic lift and there is a section I'm not sure of. The instructions call for installing a new charge spring in the implement implement relief valve and installing the spring I removed from the relief valve, along with a new valve cone, to the charge pump relief valve. Is this step necessary, or should my 169 already be set up to accept the hydraulic lift?

And, if I have to change the spring and valve cone, where do I find these parts?

Thanks,

John-David Reaves

 

[aaytay]

Charlie-
I bet that tractor is really fast with the flame paint job and all.

The nice thing about having a creeper on a fast tractor is that you can click it into "low" and then the tractor is like it's new owner...

Half-Fast! LOL!