Archive through August 06, 2017

[gloughery]

Well, here's the follow up to my tight transmission tube assembly. I hit it a few times with Blaster and cleaned the area...figured I had to try again. Here is the result. I imagine this is not fixable, what's the bite on this gonna be? And can I just call it bad names and go for broke to get this off? What else can go wrong?
I then worked on the driveshaft and got the retaining ring off the cooling fan, and realized this was a dowel pin, not something I could simply bash out. There is a lot of info posted here on pushing these out, I think finding someone with a press may be my best option. I tried the washers idea, but this didn't budge. Hmm, I wonder if the PO made everything permanent?

 

[fcurrier]

Hydro: Quickly, here, Wayne chose 129s for this Wednesday. I'm thinking maybe a Wayne Wednesday and see what he picks for next week?

I think I'll say, now, that for a "working tractor" as we age the hydraulic lift is a great thing but for just mowing I'd just as soon have a "set it and forget it" manual lift.
Have I told you that I've fallen in love with a 73. Later . . .

 

[fcurrier]

Hey, George, keep twisting it off, that tube is history.

Keep twisting and show us how much comes off?

 

[hydroharry]

Frank - ooh, 1 particular model each week. Now I get it. Sorry I missed that, and dumped my whole load.

George - geez, never seen that before. Did the wide nut not break loose from the thinner nut and both turned? If the wide nut is the only one turning then just keep on doing as Frank said cause that tube is toast. If both nuts are turning then you gotta hold the thin one while you keep trying to break the wide one loose. You gotta get the 2 nuts apart so you can get a new tube installed. I'd suggest getting a used replacement tube with the fitting already on both ends.

 

[fcurrier]

Harry and George: At this point it can all come off. If the male fitting comes, too, and they can't be separated with maybe the use of a vise, you're right, Harry, relatively cheap parts to replace. George: How's the other end where it goes in to the rear end?

 

[wshytle]

I have to enter a serious comment here...Wayne's Wednesday was NOT what I had in mind.

Anyone can start pics coming and everyone loves pics. I had a thought and the 129 came into the picture first.

Hydro-

Since when does where the rust comes from make a difference??? We have a quality rust made right here in North Carolina. I've found it on all sorts of models in abundance. I just picked the 129 since it was one of the best sellers in it's day (and I think the best seller for IH).

This is simply all about forum activity. We have a very good thing here without all of the crap other forums bring to the table. I don't want to have to deal with a Ford or Dodge commercial before I get to where I want to be. Things have gotten a little slow so I just figured I'd try and get things going again if at all possible. Charlie has worked hard to keep this forum "our" forum and he's also refused some offers that would have made our lives on the forum a little less enjoyable.



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[ekincaid]

George-omg did you have a wrench on the smaller nut working with the wrench on the larger fitting???or is that the result of one wrench on the larger fitting with a breaker bar???

 

[jsilliman3]

So follow-up. I went ahead and ordered the voltage regulator and brushes for the starter/generator. The old VR is different than the new one I ordered. The old one has the F, GEN and BAT posts and a post for a ground. The new one has F, BAT, L and GEN and is grounded to the frame by the mount. The old one also had wires to the starter switch and ignition switch both connected and both on the BAT post. I separated those and wired everything like shown on the wiring diagram I found online.
I looked in some old paperwork that came with the tractor and there is a note that says the 4-wire system was converted to a newer 3-wire system. I guess that explains that, and the old multi-position ignition switch that I just replaced with an "original" two position switch.
After reconnecting everything I tried starting and its didn't even crank slowly.
I put a test light on the battery + and it lights up bright. But when I put it on the L and BAT terminals on the VR and on the + coil terminal its a very dim light.
One other thing I noticed is that the batteries - terminal is grounded to the frame on mine but in the picture in the old manual it shows it grounded to the starter/generator pivot bolt. In the manual there is a note from the previous owner about grounding to frame under he VR conversion notes. Could that be a problem?

 

[jsilliman3]

A little more information. I suspect the reason the negative battery terminal is grounded to the frame is because the previous owner switched to heavier battery cables and a battery with car type terminals (posts) not the "L" terminals

 

[jsilliman3]

If I were to make new battery cables, what is the minimum gauge reguired for both?