• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Archive through August 18, 2014

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

dcmay

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 10, 2007
Messages
120
displayname
Dan May
Dennis. I have a pair of those black plastic weights that I was thinking about using because of the skid problem.I am kinda thinking 5o more pounds may not be enough to eliminate the problem but 150# would.
 
The IH plastic weights had the "Red White & Blue circle" logo on them, similar to the center cap of an 86 series steering wheel.
 
Nic
I don't have any NF pieces. my 107 is a wide frame. Not sure on the donor tractor info, but does have the bent frame and narrow mounting on the front lift arms. uses a wider belt than mine and the deck appears to be a 50C model. What I'm figuring from studying pics on here is that I need the mule drive for a 50" deck for a 1XX series WF to make it work. Does this sound correct?
 
One I have looks like this But is not correct for my tractor
289449.jpg
 
John,

That is an 82 series mule drive and undercarriage. It will not work on a 107 as-is.

Sorry to say, but the 107 is indeed a narrow frame tractor. I have a 127, and 10 other wideframe and 82 series tractor, Don't be thrown by the rear fenders. The 1x6/7 tractors had a very similar rear fender deck to the following wideframes, but are still indeed a narrow frame tractor. Look at the frame where the back of the engine is, on your tractor, it will be a straight line from the grill to the fender pan. If it were a wideframe, it would actually spread out at the area of the back of the engine and that area, to the grill would be a couple inches wider. When you had that mule drive installed, did the forks even touch the frankenstein bolts on the frame above the axle?

I have never tried to make an "A" or "C" series deck work on a narrowframe, so I am not sure if the right combination can be put together to make it work. One thing that you will run into, is all the pulleys on the narrowframe mule drives are straight. The pulleys on the "A" and "C" series deck are angled toward the carb side rear tire. The center pulley lines up in a different place between the 2 types of decks.....
 
John, that is indeed an 82 series mule drive.

You said in your first post that it did slide on and latch, making me believe you do have a WF. So your model number is up for discussion. I think we need to see a picture of your tractor to get it right.

As for fitting an 82 series 50c on a std WF (like my 128) is an easy fix. Like I said before, you need the front pulley (QA portion) section from a reg WF mule drive. Did your *model in question* tractor come with a deck and mule drive that fits?

You need to unbolt the QA portion of the std mule drive and replace the 82 series QA portion with that piece. That way the pulley and such are pointing in the right place and keeping the "hump back" carriage to clear the 50c. Once you have the merged mule drive made, an 82 series 44c or 50c will clip right on.

I did this exact setup for my 128 so that I could swap the nicer "C" decks on either the 782 or 128 should one tractor be down for maintenance.

On a side note, the tired 17hp twin cylinder KT17 does OK with the 44 and the 50 is a bit much for it. While the 12hp single cylinder 128 doesn't even sweat either deck in 2nd gear. That thing is nothing but torque! Although I did burn a head gasket getting it too hot due to lack of keeping grass cleared of the cooling fins. After pulling the head gasket in the back nine, I ended up getting the piston into the head. I have yet to check into its little knock now. Luckily I had the rod machined for a bearing, I'm hoping I just squished the bearing. But with 3 kids and a small business (that not that small anymore) garage time is hard to come by these days.
 
Don't know what I was thinking at the moment I said it was a 107, It is a 108

Cant use the mule drive front section from my original deck since its a 38" and the pulley is centered under the tractor and as such the idler pulleys on the mule drive are "pointing" at the wrong angles. So I guess I need the correct front section of the mule drive for a 44 or 50 to have the correct offset where the belt leaves the mule drive and points towards the drive pulley on the deck.
 
OK, Since it is a 108, that is a different story. You are better off, but there are still a few differences you will have to deal with.

1. Pulley size, the 108 will use a 3/8, or 1/2 inch belt. The 82 series runs a 5/8 belt.

2. The place the mule drive fastens to the quick attach is in a different place on the mule drive. On a wideframe/quietline mule drive, the bar the pulleys ride on is the same place it attaches to the tractor. On the 82 series, there is a set of pins that are behind that rod, which places the mule drive farther forward. I found this out with a tiller mule drive from an 82 series (has straight pulleys not angled. I mounted it up and could not get the belt to go on, it was too short. Looked at the wideframe deck drive and the 82 tiller drive and finally figured that one out. I am not sure if the 82 series quick attach clamps are positioned in a different location. I have not tried to use an 82 series deck mule and undercarriage on a widefreme. The deck may not be in the proper position due to the difference in the drive attaching pins. I have always used a mideframe "A" undercarriage. I am running a 44C on my 1450,but I have changed the center drive pulley and used the undercarriage that came with the trashed 44A that was on it when I bought it.

It may be able to be modified to work on the 108. It may be easier to find/buy a wideframe undercarriage/mule and sell the one you have. Maybe someone will chime in about that. If you do get a wideframe undercarriage, you will have to move the lift eye on the front of the deck to the other hole in the mount, since they use the wider fork. That is what I did on mine.
 
I don't think Scott even read my post...

Anyways. I'll try to get a picture of my set up tomorrow when it's light out. My 128 came with the old 42" deck. Similar to your 38" deck. I have had zero problems with my set-up. I didn't even bend the guide pulleys to "aim" at the deck drive pulley. I also just run my 1/2 drive belt right in the 5/8" drive pulley. Spins the deck a bit faster, and has never slipped.

I say try it first... Then go looking for donor parts if it doesn't.
 
CHARLIE - How much notification does MTD give you went making parts NLA? Is it just "Sorry Charlie, they're gone and we ain't getting anymore." or is it, "We have ten left, when they're gone they're ALL gone."

A number of years ago when decals for NF's were going NLA I know they were still available at dealers for maybe a year.
 
You can usually tell with them when the dealer cost price almost doubles.
When that happens, you know that what's left in inventory is pretty much it.
As far as notification goes, it's NON EXISTENT!

Once and a while, CNH comes through and picks the good stuff that MTD no longer stocks.
CNH still thinks for the future!
 
I am kinda needed some proding to move forward, I have a guy offering me a 2072 with a snowblower for a Benjamin. He says it likes to consume oil.

So should I
1a_scratchhead.gif
 
Jeff - I can't believe you even asked that question. Please post the pics of it following you home ASAP!!!
 
JEFF - At the auction back in Dec. '68 where Dad bought the Money PIT 4010-D... the farmer selling it said, "It uses a little oil..." Well, after four new tires, new paint, a tune-up, two new batteries, and some other stuff... I take it to the field the first day spring of '69. Run it 7-8 hours and head back to the barn. I'm refueling the tractor and Dad pulls the dipstick. It's BONE dry, not a drop of oil on the end. The tractor would burn between 4 and 5 quarts of oil per 34 gal tank of fuel, think the engine only held 10-12 quarts.

So YES, an engine that the seller says burns oil, burns a LOT of oil. But it IS a wide frame Hydro, I'd buy it for $100 if the tractor itself isn't in too bad of shape.

You can make 4-5 your money back parting it out or selling the blower to Don T.
 
Jeff,
I'm with Hydro on this one. Yeah that's a silly question.
deadat30.gif
Maybe you been smokin' somthin'.
deadat30.gif
Go get it!
 
Jeff,
Uh, you still here or did you pick that Super up yet????? $100 for a 2072? Jump all over that. As the others said, even if it needs parted, you do very well and wouldn't have a problem making some money. If ya do decide to snag it, I'd be interested in the blower if Don doesn't want it.
cubwinker.gif
err.gif
 
Jeff...GO FOR IT !! How can you lose with only a Benjamin invested!
err.gif
 
man,,
bash.gif
...
bottom.gif


sorry.gif


I will take this up in the right section from now on

ps owner is busy today so maybe tomorrow,
 
Back
Top