Archive through August 11, 2008

[kmcconaughey]

As I mentioned yesterday my Original had a custom axle pivot bolt, see top photo below. Note the shoulder near the head and the second shoulder near the washer. The PO drilled out the frame and then machined this pivot bolt. I borrowed a photo of the proper axle pivot bolt from CC Specialties. Due to the damage to the frame, (note the torched area ahead of the steering column hole in the third photo down), early on I picked up a better used frame. I never noticed that the bolt wouldn't fit the "new" frame. Sure hope Charlie isn't out of town for too long, (if he is actually out of town) I want to get the axle installed soon.

 

[kide]

Kraig:
Is the ID of the axle still correct (original size) ?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Kendell, yes I believe so, the portion of the "custom" pivot bolt that rides in the axle fits perfectly into the rear hole in the "new" frame. In other words, the rear hole in the frame matches the hole in the cast axle.

 

[mjrobilotta]

the motor of a 100 will slide right out the front if you remove all wiring, mounting bolts, and the front grill. whatever you do don't pull up on the motor until it is away from the driveshaft

 

[bbranstetter]

Kraig,

Looking Good!! I'm jealous of your progress.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Brian, thanks. BTW, I started the Original refurb in 2004....

 

[mgonitzke]

Anybody got the explanation/wiring diagram for altering the 782 wiring harness to use an M18? I checked in the "82 series engine replacements" thread in the CCC section, but that thread doesn't archive, so the info must have gotten pushed off the page...

 

[kide]

Kraig:
"I started the Original refurb in 2004"..
I've shied away from starting the 149 rebuild since my '54 F100 project has been off the road since '93 and my Cushman V Twin project is in it's third year....I'm afraid the 149 would run on 'till about 2020.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Matt, did you look at this thread?

Wiring Mag 18 into 782

 

[dmerkle]

Steven H.
You will need a Kohler service manual to rebuild you K321 motor. I found a free download in FAQ section(top of the page ) :http://www.kohlerengines.com/common/resources/tp_2379.pdf.

Section 10 thru 12 in Kohler manual has the needed infomation to rebuild your motor. I would pay close attention to the section on how to measure the cylinder wall and the crankshaft journal. I've had motors in the past where going up to the next size piston doesn't work because the bore was that bad. A good automotive machine shop will measure the bore and crank for you if you don't have access to the correct gages. I let my local machine shop measure and order the parts. I get better service from them when they order the parts. They know me good enough to know I only use Kohler parts. When I rebuild a motor I will write down the before and after measurements and give a copy to the owner. I would sleeve the block if the motor has a .030 over piston in it now. Some will bore a block so it can use a piston from the next size motor. I don't because you are getting into softer material. The block will wear quicker because of the softer material.

I would replace the governor gear and connecting rod. Governor gear is made out of plastic. They get brittle after awhile. I will inspect the valves...sometimes You can get by grinding the valves.

I will run a tap and die through each thread so I can get a good torque reading when I reassemble a motor. I will replace all the head bolts when rebuilding a motor.

 

[wbest]

Fun day with the Cub Cadets. This is half of my collection. From right to left: 129, 782, 1812, 582, 109 & 782. The others are in various stages of repair and restoration.

 

[mreed]

Hi guys, I thought I'd throw a picture up of my newest addition, a 129 I picked up for $100 the other day. Was told the head gasket was bad and it turned out the head was too. They must have kept running it after it blew because it melted the head where the gasket blew. I've cleaned it up and cleaned the carb and rebuilt it along with a few other odds and ends. My first hydro drive cub and all in all it looks to be in much better shape than I had figured. No worn out hydro trunion or excessive slop in anything. Steeting was pretty loose but that turned out to be caused by a missing mounting bolt on the steering column, only 1/4 turn play now. I'm thinking this thing might be living a gifted life or something. It was missing a bolt here and there and I have only a handfull of misc bolts on hand yet found ones that fit perfectly where the ones were missing. If this keeps up and I get another head for it, I just might get lucky enough that the engine is still in good shape inside and it will run well with no smoke. I'm crossing my fingers anyway.

On more serious note, the hydro cover was loose when I got it and the little flap of metal that works the hydro release mech. was off, I think I figured out how it goes on but it won't stay. Can someone help me out? post a pic maybe?

 

[dtanner]

Michael Reed (Mreed) i hope you can see the pin that holds the flapper in place. hope this picture helps. later Don T

 

[mreed]

Uh oh..... I think the hole that the pin goes in to is worn too big then. How can I fix that? a tiny spot weld to hold it on? a little JB weld perhaps?

 

[mgonitzke]

Kraig-

Nope. I must have been thinking it was in that other one. Thanks!

 

[jnixon]

Love the site! Read it most every day.
I just completed the overhaul of my CC147 K321 14HP engine. Block bored OS and sleeved to standard, new piston & rings, crankshaft ground 0.010 under & new rod, new valves lapped in, shim kit for balance gears, new points & plug. Runs great.....but
Question? Will anything cause the engine to vibrate at all RPM's other than one of the balance gears perhaps being off 1 tooth? (checked, rechecked & checked by neighbor prior to closing up). The carb. needs rebuilt, not just cleaned.
Thanks for any suggestions or advice you might have.
Jim Nixon

 

[jnixon]

Michael,
When I tore down my 147 last fall, I found the frame at the front axel pivot pin damaged,(see photo) I welded back a loose part, added a 10 gage sheet of cold roll steel and had a custom pin & bushings fabed at a local machine shop ($60.00) Looks & works fine.
Jim Nixon
<font color="ff0000">Yikes, that was a wiiiiiiide post...</font>

 

[rmiller]

Hello;I have access to a 382 hydro.I have no idea what year or what power.It is a briggs flathead single my guess is either 8 or 11 hp.The model number is 134383399.the serial number is 03500370078621.I do not have a manual.My problem is the hydro.It does not work very well.Reverse works fairly well but forward is poor.It will move forward but slowly at low rpm.The more you open the throttle the slower it goes.I do know that it has been operated for a number of years with the blades of the cooling fan gone.There is a small reservoir under the seat with a plastic cap on it.I am assuming I should be seeing transmission oil but I do not.What is the cold level supposed to be?I do know that it is an eaton trans not a sundstrand. What kind of fluid doe it take?I guessing iso 68 hydraulic fluid.What is the capacity of this system?Once I find out if it is low and what to put in it I will add some and if it improves then I will change it.Any help anyone can give me here will be greatly appreciated.Thank you.

 

[rmiller]

Sorry;I think my 382 post should have been in the lawn tractor section.I will know better next time.

 

[pbell]

I was given a shirt awhile back, by a member of this forum, that had an Original and the phrase "No Serial Number too Low" embroidered on it. Since I was out of low S/N's, I thought this one should come home with me.