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Archive through August 11, 2008
- Thread starter blanasa
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
I've also heard that School Bus Yellow was very close to the Cub Cadet yellow, much closer then the other choices for sure.
The saga continues. Saturday I used some soap and water and a good stiff brush and scrubbed the 6-12 tires for the Original. They cleaned up nicely.
Before.
After.
I had previously painted the axle but I used a Fleet Farm paint that was close, intending it to be a cover coat. I painted it with the Cub Cadet yellow. Note the two different style spindle caps, one is the "newer" bolt style and the other is the older ring and Spirol pin style. Must have had a replacement spindle installed at some point.
I got the bearing for the drive shaft installed.
I also previously painted the lift arm but like the steering column, pedestal and the rear lift parts I had used the "bare metal prep" stuff and the paint was flaking off in a few spots so I used the angle grinder with the wire cup brush to take it back to bare metal and primed and painted it.
I was going to assemble the clutch but discovered that the Spirol pins I had were no good. I'll need to order those. I also discovered that the axle bolt that was in this Original was a custom machined one that would only fit the frame it was made for. Apparently a previous owner had drilled out the worn axle pivot holes and machined a new pivot bolt. The old frame had been cut around the steering column with a torch so several years ago I bought a new used frame that was in very good condition but I never noticed the axle pivot holes. Now I need a proper axle bolt. It's always something! I'm on hold with the assembly until I get the Spirol pins and axle bolt.
Before.
After.
I had previously painted the axle but I used a Fleet Farm paint that was close, intending it to be a cover coat. I painted it with the Cub Cadet yellow. Note the two different style spindle caps, one is the "newer" bolt style and the other is the older ring and Spirol pin style. Must have had a replacement spindle installed at some point.
I got the bearing for the drive shaft installed.
I also previously painted the lift arm but like the steering column, pedestal and the rear lift parts I had used the "bare metal prep" stuff and the paint was flaking off in a few spots so I used the angle grinder with the wire cup brush to take it back to bare metal and primed and painted it.
I was going to assemble the clutch but discovered that the Spirol pins I had were no good. I'll need to order those. I also discovered that the axle bolt that was in this Original was a custom machined one that would only fit the frame it was made for. Apparently a previous owner had drilled out the worn axle pivot holes and machined a new pivot bolt. The old frame had been cut around the steering column with a torch so several years ago I bought a new used frame that was in very good condition but I never noticed the axle pivot holes. Now I need a proper axle bolt. It's always something! I'm on hold with the assembly until I get the Spirol pins and axle bolt.
Well I think the old 14 horse is going to give up on me on my 1450. My question is this, I have a Montgomery Ward mower I bought in 1993 with an 18 hp twin cyl briggs that is still in great shape....the motor that is....the mower has fallen apart around it.
Will this motor fit on my 1450 without too many modifications? If not, does anyone have a good source for a rebuild kit for my 14 hp? Thanks.
Stephen N., not only what Todd mentioned, I doubt that the crank shaft is the right size to mount the PTO clutch.
HI guys,
I need some help. I have a 123 with a 42" deck (that supposedly came off a 105). I need new blades. the ones I have are worn out. I was also hoping ot get better blades than stock. blades with more lift and discharging power.
any suggestions on where, who what part #'s etc?
heard good and bad about gators, supposedly there are some high lift blades.
thanks!!
I need some help. I have a 123 with a 42" deck (that supposedly came off a 105). I need new blades. the ones I have are worn out. I was also hoping ot get better blades than stock. blades with more lift and discharging power.
any suggestions on where, who what part #'s etc?
heard good and bad about gators, supposedly there are some high lift blades.
thanks!!
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2006
- Messages
- 2,912
- displayname
- Allen Schumacher
Kevin K., A friend of mine put the Super Gators on his fairly new Cub and blew the center belt and made the main drive belt smoke! Gator Co. was suprised but sent him a new belt and new blades! But ones that were not as agressive as the Super ones. Just my 2cents
Kevin, unfortunately the only blades that are available for the 42" decks are the stock style. They come in two flavors, standard and hard surfaced.
klejeune
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 10, 2007
- Messages
- 477
- displayname
- Keith LeJeune
Thanks for the comments on the grinders. I ended up getting a Milwaukee grinder
I'll be using it for stripping paint and rust and cutting steel for custom parts. I also use a 120 grit flap wheel to sharpen my mower blades.
I'll be using it for stripping paint and rust and cutting steel for custom parts. I also use a 120 grit flap wheel to sharpen my mower blades.
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,826
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
<font size="+2">PLOW DAY - ROANOKE, IL</font>
Just wanted to let everyone know the "official" Plow Day date and location for this fall.
Fall Plow Day will be held in Roanoke, IL (61561) at the Steve Blunier farm on Saturday October 18th, with a rain date of October 25th (or maybe a beans not cut date
)
As always, there will be activities Friday evening for those coming in early.
More info to follow....
Thanks,
Steve
Just wanted to let everyone know the "official" Plow Day date and location for this fall.
Fall Plow Day will be held in Roanoke, IL (61561) at the Steve Blunier farm on Saturday October 18th, with a rain date of October 25th (or maybe a beans not cut date
As always, there will be activities Friday evening for those coming in early.
More info to follow....
Thanks,
Steve
Matthew.
You motor should slide out the front if the tractor once you disconect all the wireing, and choke and throttle cables and removed the 4 engine bolts from the bottom of the motor.
You should not have to unbolt the clutch drive plate to remove the motor, least I have never had to unbolt the clutch drive plact from any gear driven cub cadet that I have removed the motor from.
You motor should slide out the front if the tractor once you disconect all the wireing, and choke and throttle cables and removed the 4 engine bolts from the bottom of the motor.
You should not have to unbolt the clutch drive plate to remove the motor, least I have never had to unbolt the clutch drive plact from any gear driven cub cadet that I have removed the motor from.
Kraig, Brian; I found that PLASTI Coat school bus yellow is as close as you can get on yellow if you use a Grey primer. I tried other brands because of price but didn't like the color. Also thier spray nozzle don't get paint all over your hands. Just my 2c
Luther
Luther
STEVEN N. - I rebuilt a 14 HP Kohler starting over 4 yrs ago. I used all OEM parts plus a couple heavier-duty parts similar to the Killer Kohler suggestions listed on the write-ups on the pulling forum. So far with about 100 operating hours I'm constantly amazed at it's performance. There really isn't a "rebuild kit" of parts but these Kohlers are pretty simple and basic. First thing is to disassemble Your engine and inspect the old parts. Check the piston top to see if there's markings like "010", "020", etc. That's the marking for over-size pistons. It determines which size the new piston & rings need to be, You need the next size larger O/S. I got by using a +.010" O/S piston/rings/wristpin and had to grind the crankshaft throw down .010" undersize. Grinding the crankshaft requires a new connecting rod, but they're a wear part on Kohlers anyhow. I've never reused conn. rods on ANY Kohler I've ever rebuilt.
Grind the valve seats, replace the exhaust valve, install ALL new seals & gaskets (avail. as a complete kit) rebuild the carb, install new ignition points & condensor & spark plug & plug wire, new air filter and Your K321 will run like new for MANY many years.
I spent several times more to rebuild My K321 than what I paid for the CC #72 back in 1981 that I installed it in. With OEM parts and machine work by a competent shop You should be able to rebuild Your K321 for $400-$500. You can save some $$$$$ by using parts from STENS, They're good parts also and can save You possibly $100 total.
Grind the valve seats, replace the exhaust valve, install ALL new seals & gaskets (avail. as a complete kit) rebuild the carb, install new ignition points & condensor & spark plug & plug wire, new air filter and Your K321 will run like new for MANY many years.
I spent several times more to rebuild My K321 than what I paid for the CC #72 back in 1981 that I installed it in. With OEM parts and machine work by a competent shop You should be able to rebuild Your K321 for $400-$500. You can save some $$$$$ by using parts from STENS, They're good parts also and can save You possibly $100 total.
