Archive through August 11, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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To all,
I removed the engine today and did a top end tear down. No oversize markings on the piston, no ridge on the cylinder top. Valves appear to be seating, although I did find quite a bit of carbon build up in the combustion chamber. I will finish the tear down and measure everything in a day or two. Now on to the main drive clutch. The friction disc alignment holes are oval shaped and the alignment studs show signs of wear. Are the studs replaced seperately or do I need to buy a new plate with the studs already installed?
 
Hi David- Can't answer any clutch questions, but when you measure up that engine, be sure to drop the piston to BDC and take several measurements of bore up and down the cylinder. With the piston in place, it'll be impossible to get a complete idea of what your cylinder taper is, but you'll have a good idea of what's going on there. If there's a substantial amount of wear at the bottom end of the stroke, you'll likely have to bore it to next possible oversize in order to get good ring seating.

As an example, I just rebuilt a 10hp that had a beautiful-looking bore- my first impression was that it'd be satisfied with just a set of rings, but upon careful measuring, I found that the cylinder was tapered and out-of-round enough so that just installing rings wouldn't work... even a 0.010" overbore wouldn't straighten it... ended up going 0.020" and putting in a new slug and rings. Fortunately, it's a single-cylinder, and Stens parts are very economical, so it wasn't a real hardship.
 
Two 149 questions ...

1. Anyone ever had the spring-pin in the right lift arm attached to the rockshaft break? I'm having an unpleasant time getting it out - not much room to work down in there.

2. Can anyone post a drawing/photo/sketch of the float lockout pin with dimensions - I need to make one. Thanks in advance.
 
We & The 104, 1200 tied down in in Southeastern Virginia. Bonnie gone and Charlie
animatedbear.gif
bearing down for a direct hit. U'al wish us luck.
I hope all of our Fellow Cub Cadeters south of here made it thru the Hurricanes OK
Later
{:-{)
 
Heres a pic. of the float lock out . Travis has them on his cc specialties sight .scroll up to the top of the page and check it out
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(Message edited by rpatton on August 14, 2004)
 
Got the project Cubbie off to get paint. Ran out of welding gas to finish the fenders, but they'll get done. Also got my pan seat welded up and looking pretty good, took a couple times grinding out the cracks and filling them with a bead of weld before the crack was all the way gone, but it should be OK now.
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Dave Kamp,
Thanks for the tip on measuring the entire length of the cylinder bore. Upon visual inspection I could see the gap between the piston and cylinder wall get wider as I ran the piston down to bdc. I will have to get out the telescoping micrometer and check the bore at the bottom before ordering the proper size piston and ring set. An oversize bore is definately in order for this 36 year old K-301 engine. I think I now know where all the compression blow by pushing oil out the crankcase breather was originating. More questions will need to be answered for me, as I am new to the Kohler engine and CC owners group. Thanks to all for the help thus far.
 
I organized and swept the garage yesterday to make room for today's cub-splosion.
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The 100 had been developing a problem that finally came to a howling crescendo on Thursday. If I had decided to fix it sooner I would be spending way less on parts.
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I'll bet you all can tell what the problem was...
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Rich, thanks for postings the picture of the float lock out pin - any chance you could measure the hole centre to pin center and pin legths for me?

By the time I order one from the sponsor and have it shipped to Canada and pay the shipping and duty etc it will liely cost me $75; much cheaper to fab one here.

Has anyone replaced the rockarm spring pins with clevis pins or something easier to extract when they break and stronger so they don't break?
 
Calvin,
Looks real cheap to me!

Global Priority Mail - $7.00
Airmail Letter Post - $3.75 Max. length 24", Max. length, height, depth combined 36"
 
Has anyone found a source for the spring for the spring assist? G+G says they are NLA. Scott Madson sas he's had them on back order for months. Is the spring the same for wide and narrow frames? I know the other parts are different. Thanks Kendal
 
Jim-
Sand blasted, surface ends up fairly rough, primer, paint and clearcoat covers that right up. The gentleman that does my paint and blasting has a dream of a setup, a sort of "blasting house" with his mobile power unit parked next to it. Sand goes through the grated floor and gets transfered to a holding tank. Does everything from Cubs to tractor trailers and dump trucks, been known to do a few Farmalls too . . . . about 20 a year.
 
Well had a great time at the show. Found this little gem..
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Built by Gene Waite of Ottawa Illinois
Also ran across a line of little tractors.
wink.gif

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Okay, Tedd... so how did he hook those two transaxles together? Dij'a take any detail pictures?
 
Thanks for the float pin dimensions. I fab'd it today out of some flat and round stock. It's not exactly the same as factory - but its doing the job.

It baffles me why the dimensions of such a simple factory part are such a closely guarded secret.
 
Is the trailer hub front spindle upgrade in the FAQ?
I just looked but I couldn't find it. If it isn't
could someone (Kraig) repost it? I saw Wyatts from a couple days ago.
 
Calvin , Its not that its a closely guarded secret ,I didn`t have time to take my tunnle cover off ,remove the pin and measure it .thought I was helping you out pointing you in the right dir.
 

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