Archive through August 11, 2004

[crinehart]

Kraig,
Sorry for the tractor slip. It is hard for me to keep this straight. I know, but when only a few days ago I mowed our 2 acre yard with this, It is too easy to refer to the "tractor" as a mower. One thing I noticed rather quickly was that our yard is tiered. I was amazed at how much pep it had in third gear, far more that the 67 JD 110 I have and usually mowe with. I turned at the top and started to come down ( the mower deck was off) and alarmingly thought when I engaged the brakes, or I should say brake, that nothing was happening. My wife was standing at the bottom where our house is watching when I looked back at my rear tire and saw that it was locked and the brake was working. I turned at a slant avoiding the hose and almost hit her car. She said stop fooling around and if anything I should have steered to hit the house. I said to her are you crazy?

 

[kmcconaughey]

.......now the JD 110 feel free to refer to that as a mower...... )

 

[mmasheris]

Willy D. nice looking tractor seems like I have seen it somewhere before?I have your driveshaft just need to weld crossbar on,waiting on a teaser spring out of stock.

 

[dfrisk]

CHARLES - Neighbor who used to live right next door to My Folks worked at JD, The Harvester Plant in E.Moline, IL. When deare came out with the 110 We all figured He'd buy one. He was over looking at Dad's brand new Cub Cadet 70 one day and said when Deare made a tractor as good as THAT Cub Cadet He'd Buy one. He's still running a home-made tractor with a Wisconsin Engine belt driving a John Dear #55 Combine transmission driving an old car rearend....some 40 yrs later. I think He put a Simplicity deck on the thing.

 

[wcompton]

Bruce-
No problems with the rear cover warping, dunno if it helps or not, but I've got a 3' by 18" sheet of 10ga aluminum that I weld on, seems to suck the heat out relatively well. I took a straightedge to the cover's sealing surfaces afterwards and it appears not to have warped.

BTW-
I looked up on McMaster last night and found a sight gauge, I had looked before but must have used the wrong search criteria, the 1/2"NPTF sight plugs are marked for just under $11.

 

[stanner]

My dad traded in his JD110 in '73 on a new 149 (which i have today).... he hated the JD, he went through two tranaxles, an engine rebuild, shifting, belts, belts, and belts...

 

[sleggett]

Dave,Dennis,thank's, why do it half a** when you can do it right the first time! I've been a lurker for several years, so I guess that was a silly question, DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!! Anyway, anyone every go to The Threshermans Reunion in Pontiac Illinois? I aint been there for years. Lot's of cool stuff!! thought I would try to get there this year, it's on labor day weekend, 9/3-9/7. No shade, usually hot as HELL! but it's been cool around here recently, but who knows what the weather will bring during the show.

 

[crinehart]

Dennis,
I thought when I got the JD 110 a few years ago it was the best thing on 4 wheels. My brother-in-law only had older cub cadets. He kept warning me about the JD and the transmission. 2 years of plowing snow and mowing grass with it I couldn't complain much. I did have to replace rear axle seals which was a royal chore. I kept looking at my brother-in-laws cubs and envied at how much easier it was to work on than my JD. Well after getting this original from him with parts from a 62 to boot...does anyone need a JD...looks pretty!
I also have a Moto Mower(garden tractor) , around a 61 or so I think, with a pull recoil starter. I also noticed how much peppier this 7 hp cub is compared to the JD 8 hp, which leads me to think it's probably getting a little tired.

 

[dkamp]

Hi Bruce!

Loader-Mutt's reservoir is the left-hand side loader stanchion. I'll be using it for both the loader's supply, as well as the power-steering's supply. The loader will obviously be the consumer of the highest volume, but the steering system will bypass most everything right back to the reservoir.

The loader AND power steering will be running off the Sundstrand hydraulic pump driven off the toothed-belt drive I posted earlier... I think you got a peek of it at Prophetstown... ?? Loader-Mutt currently has a 149 pedestal, lift kit, and ported hydro, but I'll probably pull that off and move it to the diesel-project, so I can mount a sleeve-hitch for pulling a plow. If loader-mutt needs a lift, I'll just use the current live-hydraulics and put a cylinder in the back. With 8gpm and 2500psi available, I won't be hurtin' for fluid-power.

I'll shoot a few pix tonight, mebbie post 'em (as well as a few shots of a swimming forklift truck) in a day or three.

(Message edited by dkamp on August 12, 2004)

 

[dkamp]

Hi Charles!

I don't normally bash 'other brand' machines, but in the IH Cub Cadet's favor, is a simple fact of componentry- if you look at the transaxle housing of ANY IH Cub Cadet 'garden tractor', you'll see that it's the SAME HOUSING that's used on the Farmall Cub agricultural tractor. If you look under even the heftier JD 'garden-tractors', you'll see a little Dana light-automotive or golf-cart style axle. Not knockin' Dana, but IH was bound-and-determined to put a heavy-duty product on the market, and the mass of that case guarantees not only it's durability, but your ability to continue making foward motion when all other so-called 'garden tractors' have either become the victim of spinning wheels, or broken driveline components.

The magic distinction between 'mowers' 'lawn tractors' and 'garden tractors' is pretty simple. The first two are analgous, save for machines which have no purpose in life without a mowing deck installed. The latter are designed "from the git-go" to be the tractive effort for 'ground engaging implements'. Engaging the ground (with blows, harrows, etc) can be seriously demanding of drivetrain, chassis, and powerplant, and if you're gonna break something, plow-day is the likely opportunity for you to find a weakness in your machine.

 

["the apostle"....with 2 new trike motors, and stil]

For those who needed a pic of our new trike motors, follow this link:

http://www.meriter.com/babymail/baby_display2.asp?ID=6974nq&go.x=10&go.y=13

We reviewed cub cadet flashcards last night and (sorry Ray L.) they still dislike the slanty grilles

I guess with age does come wisdom.....

 

[bmoore]

Wyatt,
Just wondered if you used any kind of heat sink. Guess you do.
Dave K2,
I remember the pump mount you had set up (almost) at Prophetstown and on this site, and thought you had a ported hydro on it, too. I was just thinking of a way to use a common reservoir, a cooler, circulating pump, temp sensor, and a float attached to a valve, needle, or sending unit in the diff housing. Unfortunately, the float would need to be pretty close to where the ring gear is keep it from overfilling if in the wrong position on a hill. Plus, there's the potential for loose parts, which wouldn't necessarily be a good thing around meshing gears. I guess it's an example of over-engineering something (which is fun), then thinking of reasons not to do it (which is when reality slaps you in the face and calls you a bonehead).

 

[kmcconaughey]

Ken, cute kids! Thanks for the picture.

 

[dkamp]

Hi Bruce!

The ported-hydro is fine for running the stock lift kit, and it'd be fine for another small accessory, but with the big Sundstrand pump, I've accepted the fact that it's pointless to waste a perfectly good ported hydro and lift on the Loader-Mutt, when I'm sure I'll need one on the diesel-project. Loader mutt will probably get some kind of lift, but I've got plenty of fluid power there.

Using the axle housing as a system reservoir... a novel way of getting capacity without hanging a reservoir on the tractor somewhere would be to simply insert a fitting in the hydrostat's suction tube... and use it for both pickup and return. Or, a feller could carefully bore and thread a hole or two in the case.

And it'd do alright, provided that the loader, lift, and steering cylinders are all fairly 'balanced'... meaning, that when the lift, bucket, and steering are each swung from one extreme to the other, the amount of fluid displaced is even. This will keep the fluid level from rising and falling as implements are operated. Unfortunately, I can't balance the loader lift or bucket, but I can calculate the difference in extension and retraction displacements, so I could calculate how much variation the reservoir will see...

I'll have the steering cylinders configured back-to-back (so one extends while the other retracts) just to give it 'balance'... the cylinders are 2" bore, but have a 1.5" rod, so they're seriously imbalanced... running just one of these buggers would give me about 3 turns from lock-to-lock going right, but 1/2 turn lock-to-lock going left... that'd be wacky! Instead, I'll set 'em up for push operation, and tie the rod-side ports to the piston-side ports of the opposite cylinder... and it'll be fully balanced... that'll kill two birds with one stone- minimizing reservoir variability, and steering that isn't goofy!

I guess the only concerns I'd have for using the transaxle housing as the hydro reservoir would be for fluid heating, aereation, and contaminants. With the hydrostat's suction tube being way down at the bottom, I don't think fluid-level variation would cause any serious risk to the hydro... especially if the auxiliary hydraulic system's pickup point was an inch or two above the bottom... that way, if something starved, it'd be the auxiliary pump, not the hydro. A float or level sensor would be a good idea, but as long as the outboard pickup point was higher, it really shouldn't matter... the outboard pump will start barkin', and the steering will start getting mushy...

To refresh your memory, this Sundstrand has a 'priority' and 'auxiliary' port... the 'priority' port recieves a full 4gpm flow at minimum rated input speed. The Auxiliary port will flow 6gpm once the engine's up to speed... the 'priority' port is for running steering, so you don't lose power-assist when idled-down.

 

[dfrisk]

CHARLES - I forgot to mention Dad's neighbor with the home-made garden tractor was the Lead Engineer at JD Harvester for the #105 Combine drive train. That was deare's Biggest combine in the 60's until the 7700 & 8800's were built. One of deare's Corp. Attorney's used to live on the farm on US Rt. 6 just west of the I-80 intersection. For YEARS He had a 1961 or 1962 Cub Cadet sitting on a concrete pad in front of His house with the hood painted green. We'd see Him or His Kids mowing with it every now & then.

 

[dkamp]

But now that you've mentioned it, Bruce- next time I've got the lid off, I'll take a look and see what the layout of that case is... mebbie I'll drill and tap it for ports!

 

[rleo]

Ken:

Great lookin' kids. You're blessed (and they're sleeping to boot).

Good of you to show them Slant Grilles a second time. Children eventually need to make up their own minds. <font size="-2">Course, be sure to show them the pics when their eyes are OPEN!</font>

 

[kmcconaughey]

Dave, Bruce, Ryan used the transmission/differential on his gear drive as a reservoir when he added hydraulic lift to his plow special. He just tapped into the side of the transmission. You'll have to get Ryan to post the details, I forget what he used for a pump.

(Message edited by kmcconaughey on August 13, 2004)

 

[dfrisk]

DAVE - You get around a XX86 series FARMALL they have a little steering cyl. tucked up behind the front axle that would possibly work for Your P/S needs. Shaft runs all the way through the cyl. and if I remember right is about a 2" bore and 8" or so stroke. Cyl. has mounting pivots welded onto the sides with replaceable bushings and is bolted into place. The yoke it mounts into that pivots off the back of the axle could be down-sized to CC proportions. If it can steer a 15,000# tractor with a rack full of ten 100# suitcase weights it should be able to steer a CC. Price of the cyl. & yoke from a salvage yard should be reasonable. I used to run a couple hundred of those a night thru My washing machine at Farmall.

 

[bgolden]

Charles,
Back to the problem with the hood touching the grill frame.
I use piano wire to stop the hood just before it touches the hood. A small hole the size of the wire can be drilled in the front cross brace of the hood. The wire is passed thru and a small clamp made for the wire is used. The clamps are available at most hardware type stores. Hit the clamp lightly with a hammer and the wire is secure. Fasten the other end using a small hook to the lift bracket on the engine. If you use an S-hook you can remove the hood without cutting the wire.
Bill