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Archive through August 11, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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sleggett

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 4, 2002
Messages
75
Location
Central Illinois
displayname
Steve
Dennis F. you stated you "freshened up"a K-181, what does that include? cylinder hone [if not too out of round] new rings,valve job, or just lap em? As long as the engine runs ok and just has low power, oil consumption and blowby- how long would this last? I have yet to tear into an engine, but I think I could handle a freshen up. Or should I go all the way with a complete rebuild?

(Message edited by sleggett on August 11, 2004)
 
Nice Job on the sight-glass, Wyatt!

I've been considering making a separate dipstick-filler for my Loader-Mutt, just so it's easy to check and add HyTran, but IIRC, the fluid level on hydros should be up to the filler hole, right? In that case, I might just put a filler tube in the top cover, and put a sight glass in the back cover's fill hole...
 
Steve- if you go through the trouble of pulling the motor down, you might-as-well just take the measuring tools and see how bad the cylinder taper, etc., is. If there's a fair amount of taper, you'll be better off doing a standard overbore and fitting new piston and rings. Lots of taper will cause new rings to seal little better than worn original rings, or probably worse. It's usually not too expensive to have the block bored... if you shop, you'll probably find that all the shop work and replacement parts will put you in the $300ish investment range. Changing just the rings will require essentially the same amount of labor, and you'll have the engine all apart anyway, so a 'complete rebuild' will likely be a better investment... but that's not something one can determine until it's all apart and sitting on the workbench.
 
I just had to share this with you guys! LOL
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

SUBJECT: Loaded Tires, I use beet juice..

I quit using antifreeze the first time I had a nail in my tire. Also I found that beet juice is much cheaper $1.55 per/Gal, and completely non toxic. It is however purple and stains your hands very nicely. The sugar content is what keeps the tires from freezing, it does not harm the rubber like anti-freeze or the rims like calcium.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
 
STEVE - The K-181 was the engine that was in My #72 when I bought it back in 1980 or '81. It was only a year old according to the serial number, and I only ran it mowing a small city lot and pushing a little snow. It developed what I thought was excessive blow-by so I rebuilt a K-241 and dropped it into the 72 in '85. When I pulled the K-181 down last spring the cyl. looked fine, still had all the factory cross-hatch and no ridge at the top of the bore and the piston looked almost like new. So I replaced the rings, exh. valve and rod, had a local shop lightly hone the bore, grind/lap the valves, polish the rod throw on the crank and reassembled the engine. It's going to be used for light duty on a lawn vacuum that only takes 2-3 HP to run at just over idle RPM. The 14 HP engine I'm rebuilding for use in the 72 showed more wear but probably would have run for a while yet except for the fact it sat outside. It's getting bored .010" O/S, new rod, piston/rings, possibly valve guides. The stellite valves and hardened valve seats look fine. Anything that gets disassembled gets new gaskets & seals when it goes back together. The K-241 I rebuilt in '85 just got "Freshened Up" also. Rings, rod, valve grind, etc. and has gotten run hard for 1200 hours so far. The Exh. valve will stick momentatily when it gets hot which tells Me it needs the valves ground but it only burns 2-3 ounces of oil while mowing for 5-6 hours so it isn't in too bad a shape. It's really tough to tell what needs to be done until You get the engine apart unless You know how the engine was run. Plan for the worst and hope for the best!
 
Tedd:
Actually, I can understand why someone would ask 2k for a Slant Grille: it being the pinnacle of IH design and all. . . .

tophat.gif


Gov:
What you doin' in Downer's Grove? Sord da of out of da beatin' path. . . .

ihrotate.gif
 
I recently acquired a 1961 (#23610) cub cadet. It is in really good shape with a mower deck which works nicely. I am starting to restore it and the question I have is this, having never seen one before, what keeps the hood from hitting the grill sides when it is fully open? Also it has a hole in the top of the hood directly behind the chrome ornament. Is this suppose to be here for something or not? Thanks for any help.
 
Charles:
Don't know if the IH fathers invented stops to prevent paint chipping. I just grabbed some 1/4" gasket tape and stuck it beneath the hood where the wear points are. Seems to work fine and know one has noticed that it's there.
 
Wyatt,
Looks good. Any problems with the cover trying to warp when you welded in the fitting?
Dave K2,
Where is the reservoir for your loader? Will it use a seperate pump, or does it rely on a ported hydro for pressure?
Anybody? Anybody?
Does anybody have an idea when the "Cool IH Cub Cadets Not OEM but better'n' new ! ! !" section will be open to all of us peons? I've been looking forward to it. I'm sure a bunch of others have, also.
 
Wyatt,
Looks good. Any problems with the cover trying to warp when you welded in the fitting?
Dave K2,
Where is the reservoir for your loader? Will it use a seperate pump, or does it rely on a ported hydro for pressure?
Anybody? Anybody?
Does anybody have an idea when the "Cool IH Cub Cadets Not OEM but better'n' new ! ! !" section will be open to all of us peons? I've been looking forward to it. I'm sure a bunch of others have, also.
 
Sorry about the twin post. For whatever reason, I can't edit.
 
Charles:
Well, I'm relatively new to this too. I may be missing something. I just grabbed the tape b/c one of my hood latches is broke. I first put the tape where the hood meets the steering column pedastal. The tape eliminated the rattle and snugs the hood into position. I was surprised the other day when Wyatt was looking for the material that padded the gas tank on the gas tank bracket. Never thought to use something like that. . . .
 
Charles, assuming it has the original chrome hood ornament it should not have the extra hole in the hood. The original hood ornament should be "T" shaped.
 
Kraig,
It has the original "T" shaped hood ornament. The hole is behind that about an inch and a half, maybe a quater of an inch in diameter. I can see the indentations of where a washer had been also. If the hole has no purpose, when I get to the hood I will fill it in. Thanks.
 
Charles, that hole should not be there, someone likely mounted a light there.
 
Charles E.: I have head lights on both of my Originals and the light brackets will act to keep the hood from opening all the way.
20871.jpg

20872.jpg

20873.jpg
 
Wm DeTurk,
Wow,
Nice looking mower. The first thing I did was to print it. I noticed that the one I have has no rear fenders. Are the head lights original or added on? The next thing I just noticed is that my printer is out of black ink!
I see on the photo where the bottom of the front of the hood rests against the headlight bracket.
 
Charles, headlights and fenders were both optional. The drawing that William posted is a section of the original installation instructions for the Original headlights showing the locations of the holes for the brackets.
 

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