Archive through August 06, 2017

[jsilliman3]

Finally got my 100 running again after months. replaced a non-original ignition switch with a original type and it wouldn't run. It would only run if I held in the start button. Turns out the wire to the battery post on the voltage regulator was connected to the wrong side of the start button so I moved it and shazam! it worked.
Mowed the lawn for an hour or more then stopped to top off gasoline. When I tried to start it it would barely turn over.
I can crank it by hand and get a spark. When it first wouldn't start I checked the battery and measured 12.6V. Now that I've been cranking it several times its down to about 12.41V. Any thought what would cause it not to start after I stopped it to add fuel. It ran great until I turned it off.

 

[digger]

Jim S.
My first thought would lean towards and loose ground connection somewhere.
Second would be that your voltage finally gave up the ghost after being wired wrong.
Third would be the starter generator might have decided it was tired and said PHFFFFT on this!

 

[jsilliman3]

So what do you think...buy new brushes for the starter generator and a replacement voltage regulator?

 

[digger]

Personally I wouldn't go throwing parts at it until I did some checking.
Using the KISS method always works for me.
It could very well something really simple to fix.
Check all the connections first, even if they look good I would clean them up and go from there.
Check voltages at the VR and the S/G.
You might even have to take the cover off the VR to see if the points could be burnt a little.

 

[wheinsohn]

I have a part lawn of that is not mine but I usually mow it every other time I mow my lawn to make mine look better. Started out in the normal 1st gear mowing with the 106 and 50" deck. After the first round, I decided to use 3rd and 2nd gear. With all the rain and heat the past few weeks, it was thick and tall. Oh, and that little lever going through the tunnel was pulled back. Anybody got a rake and small baler?

 

[jsilliman3]

I was getting the same voltage reading on the coil and VR as the battery so I figure those connections are good. Of course the number was down to 12.41V after trying to start numerous time. The voltage at the S/G was 11.96V when pushing the starter button.
When ordering the VR I noticed it's a little different than the one on my tractor. I wonder if the previous owner had a non standard VR on it to work with the non standard ignition switch. The previous switch was a 3 position 5 terminal switch that i replaced with a 2 position 2 terminal switch. I wonder if the previous switch and current VR along with the wiring I "fixed" were all non standard to work together and since I've change a part of that that it all needs to change.

 

[wshytle]

Jim-

I'd also check the ACR spring as well as the valves. I've found so many engines with the valves way off. It's probably been a while since that engine has been at least refreshed.

.

 

[jnicklas]

Last week I took 3 of my tractors for a ride to wash. The 149 just got a new engine dropped in. The 1650 had a cracked dipstick tube where it screws to the block, pulled the engine to fix that. Cleaned up the frame to do the cradle mod and a mod I do to tighten up the axle channel. 782 was cleaned to do some front end work. Going to pull the spindles to clean, replace the tie rod end and tighten up the pivot bolt to take out a little play.

 

[ekincaid]

So I think I have my hydro "creep" issue figured out I think so what I got is when I start my 1450 you press down the brake pedal which resets the shift lever to neutral but here's the rub the hydro thinks it's in forward when the shift lever is in the neutral position,to find neutral I have to move the lever down closer to reverse position (move the lever down about two inches from marked neutral).what I'm not sure is what linkage rod should I adjust to bring neutral "up" to the n mark in the shifter range and which direction should I adjust the rod forwards or backwards?

 

[etopel]

Ethan- You probably need to adjust the cam bracket. It's on the left side and 2 bolts hold it to the front of the trans. The bolt holes in the bracket are slotted so you can move the bracket up and down to adjust. Crack the bolts loose but leave them kind of snug. Put the tractor on stands so the rear wheels are off the ground. Then with the tractor running and the lever at N tap the bracket with a punch up or down until the wheels stop turning. Be careful not to get tangled up in anything. When it's adjusted shut off the tractor and tighten the bolts and then recheck the adjustment in case it shifted when you tightened it. Good luck

 

[digger]

Ethan K.
Operation neutral adjust is in the FAQ's.
http://cubfaq.com/questions.html

45. How do I adjust my hydro to find neutral again?

 

[ekincaid]

Ed,Digger thank you I'm so close to having this 1450 operational I can taste it.This rebuild has been an education for sure

 

[jbkrupar]

Question on the 149 - oil is leaking from the governor shaft onto the points cover. Lost approximately 1/3 of the oil in 30 minutes. Is there a fix? Started two weeks ago - no problems before that. Engine was rebuilt approximately 2 years ago.

 

[digger]

Jim K.
One of 2 things come to mind.
1. Maybe the nut that the shaft goes through got loose some how.
1. The cross shaft bushing is worn or broke.

If you have to take it apart, check the cross shaft needle bearing while your at it, just to make sure.
I'm bettin the cross shaft nut is loose though.

 

[jstorma]

Jim K. besides what Digger mentioned and not knowing what upgrades you used on your engine and what it's used for, but another thing you want to try is removing and checking the breather. It might be plugged with grim and lawn clippings.

I had oil draining out around the governor shaft as well on the 1650, changed the nut with a new one and it still leaked. Found out it was a custom breather I installed that was restricting too much. Once I put the original breather back on, problem gone! Mine was not leaking as bad as you mention; but enough that it was dripping down the front axle and leaving its mark.

 

[wshytle]

Just trying to stimulate a little activity here...

A while back here on the forum we had times when all that had a certain model, say a 124 would post a pic with maybe a comment or two about their 124.

I was going through some old pics and came across this 129 I found on CL in Danville, Va. I'm guessing it was about 2011. I was buying like a fool back then so as soon as I found it I was off to get it. The PO was into motocross bikes and, as can be seen the 129 was greatly affected. It's the only cub cadet I've ever seen with an expansion chamber for an exhaust system. I remember being a bit embarrassed and even thought about pulling over and cutting it back a bit but I didn't. I eventually put another K301a in it and have been using it ever since.

I also remember this is the one I did a trunion slot repair on which lasted about an hour. I lost control out in the garden but was able to "teddybear" it back to the shop. Once I got the seat pan off the slot, springs, and end caps were lying right there. IIRC, a weld broke but it's been a while and my memory isn't what it was. Anyway, she's been running strong ever since the second fix.

I know there are quite a few 129s out there so lets see a pic if you have one available.

.

 

[fcurrier]

OK, Wayne, I'll bite!
This one came in as part of a package deal on a 1450 with a loader. Sold the loader outfit - this was my "profit". It's patiently waiting to see what happens to it next.

 

[fcurrier]

Then there was this one:
I'd sold it to a friend and he forgot he had a hole in his driveway! Broke the left front spindle. If I remember right we towed it out of the hole with the Jeep.

I'd called this one "Classie" because she was a classic example of how many little things could be wrong. It was like an industrial arts instructor had set her up to teach a class and then just set her aside.

 

[snicklas]

OK All,

Quick question.... what is the difference between the 10 and 13 teeth starters for the 10-16 AQS engines for the Quietline and later Cubs...... (besides 3 teeth)

Are they interchangeable? Is it an early/late thing? Or you have one or the other and have to use the same and not swap them?

I know the starter choices in some of the Ford Diesels have a different number of teeth and that is part of the gear ratio..... is this the same thing?

 

[hydroharry]

Scott - I heard before there were 10 and 13 tooth starters and wondered the same questions you have. It's gonna take someone like Charlie to give us the real details tho.

Wayne - about the best I can do is say what models I had, which ones I wished I had back, and which ones not. 129 would be on the wished I had back list. Loved the red stripe decal. Gotta have a hydraulic lift tho. One of the best all around tractors. 1450 would be on the have back list. Liked the looks with the real steel side panels. Rounding out the list it would include 109, 149, 107, and probably a 782. On the better off not having back would be 102, 122 (lots of them) 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 147, 86. As you can see I never had a round fender unit of my own. I owned multiples of these various units but almost all before the internet came around, and round fender units just didn't show up that much that were in some reasonable condition. This was when I was living in CT and I traveled to NY, PA, NJ, MA, NH, VT to get my CCs. I did have one shipped to me from "Travelers Rest, SC (mostly because the guy had friends in the shipping business so didn't cost to much). That's when I learned SC rust was probably the worst in the country. PA rust was bad but didn't hold a stone to the SC stuff. I didn't have a sand blasted and used up a lot of wire wheels trying to remove it.

Hey Frank - up there is Spud Country (or is it Tree Country) - not to hard to convert that 129 into a 149. Is that what you're waiting for? I seem to recall you letting go of a 149 and saying you'd never do it again.