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Archive through August 02, 2011
- Thread starter memorgan
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
I purchased a 1650 last year. As part of the refurbishing/preventative maintenance process, I replaced the four rubber engine mounts with kits purchased from Cub Cadet. Per the kit instructions, all four were installed and torqued to 8 ft pounds. In addition, the two snub bumpers were also replaced. Upon completion of installation, I started the engine and there was a significant "shaking" occuring which wasn't present before the engine mounts were replaced. Is this a result of wear in the driveshaft components? The engine may have settled on the old mounts over 30 plus years.
Thanks,Al}}
Thanks,Al}}
Al, WELCOME!
My understanding is that the new bushings are much stiffer than the original style bushings were. I forget the exact details, but it is advised to use the 4 best original bushings along with 4 of the new bushings. I'm sure that someone that is better versed in the QL series will be along shortly.
NIC - Firestone never had a mold for the 23-10.50. It was the size everyone wanted but Firestone never made. The 26-12.00, 23-8.50, & 6-12 were the only sizes they ever made.
And I'm sure there were a LOT of discussions about the Firestone name being on those tires too. But Miller makes a lot of full size discontinued tires with the Firestone name on them, so they're used to talking.
I suspect Firestone makes more money from Miller selling those tires than they did when THEY made them.
And I'm sure there were a LOT of discussions about the Firestone name being on those tires too. But Miller makes a lot of full size discontinued tires with the Firestone name on them, so they're used to talking.
I suspect Firestone makes more money from Miller selling those tires than they did when THEY made them.
Folks, I think I'm out to buy my first tiller, and after all of the searching and reading I've done, I'm still not certain that I am educated enough to be doing this solo. Anyway, here's the skinny: I own a 147, and I may have a line on one or more 1A tillers, all of which include extensions and the angle drive gearboxes. I may also have a line on a 2A. I feel that a 1A with a pair of extensions would be ideal, but...
I don't think any of the tillers I am chasing have mule drives or belts. I know I can chase down a suitable belt through a forum sponsor, but can I use the mule drive for my 48" deck with a tiller?
And of course, is there anything I should really look closely for when inspecting a tiller? Obvious things like damaged pulleys and worn tines are things I can figure out on my own, but being a complete Cub Cadet neophyte, I could use tips and suggestions.
...And yes, I already know that buying two or more of something is good for spare parts purposes, but my wife might be getting tired of that. (On the other hand, a few spare tillers I can hide. Spare cars? Not so much, but I bet I can cram one tiller in the trunk of each Mercedes on my property.)
I don't think any of the tillers I am chasing have mule drives or belts. I know I can chase down a suitable belt through a forum sponsor, but can I use the mule drive for my 48" deck with a tiller?
And of course, is there anything I should really look closely for when inspecting a tiller? Obvious things like damaged pulleys and worn tines are things I can figure out on my own, but being a complete Cub Cadet neophyte, I could use tips and suggestions.
...And yes, I already know that buying two or more of something is good for spare parts purposes, but my wife might be getting tired of that. (On the other hand, a few spare tillers I can hide. Spare cars? Not so much, but I bet I can cram one tiller in the trunk of each Mercedes on my property.)
nbextermueller
Well-known member
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- May 18, 2007
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- 909
- displayname
- Nic Bextermueller
Dennis,
That's news to me. I only repeated what was told to me over the phone by who I assumed was Bev Miller. Maybe she was referring to the 26x12x12's. We talked about it all in the same context.
Reguardless of where they originated... They are fantastic!
I'd be ok with a Ford emblem on a Cub. Putting Chevy is just plain disgraceful.
That's news to me. I only repeated what was told to me over the phone by who I assumed was Bev Miller. Maybe she was referring to the 26x12x12's. We talked about it all in the same context.
Reguardless of where they originated... They are fantastic!
I'd be ok with a Ford emblem on a Cub. Putting Chevy is just plain disgraceful.
mhomrighausen
Well-known member
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- Sep 20, 2001
- Messages
- 3,133
- displayname
- Marlin Homrighausen
Al W. Welcome!!!! About those OEM rubber engine mounts and the vibration thing. I installed a set on the Keepsake 1650 a little over a year ago. I used new all around. The first time I started the tractor up it shook so bad that I thought only a stripper would enjoy that kind of vibration. Still I ran the tractor and drove it around for about ten minutes before shutting it off. I waited around twenty minutes then started it up again. Hmmm... not quite so bad only still not quite right. So after driving it around for another ten to fifteen minutes and then shutting it off again then waiting over an hour. I noticed a pattern developing. I haven't done anything to isomounts since initial installation and it seems they just needed to "break" themselves in naturally. That tractor is one pretty smooth ride now and I don't notice any of that awful first time vibration at all. I've come to the conclusion that too many install the factory isomounts and expect a fantastic and smooth ride immediately. To that I say ... install to factory specs and do as I did. Patience pays off. Also, why would you want to use four old rubber mounts that may or may not last another 30 years. None of us were present when those Cub Cadets were assembled for all we know they may have been subject to that same really excessive vibration the first time they were started and run off the assembly line.
Just my thoughts and experience with those isomounts.
Wayne S. Nice little addition there.
Nic B. Pretty cool set of tires there.
Just my thoughts and experience with those isomounts.
Wayne S. Nice little addition there.
Nic B. Pretty cool set of tires there.
NIC - If you search back into the archives here the fact Firestone never made the 23-10.50's was discussed. The 23-8.50's are good tires, I hope Miller makes a batch of them sometime. I bought mine 10-11 yrs ago and they were two of the last three tires left in the country, and I know Firestone made them once, maybe twice since then. I don't know how many they made when they made them, I don't have the tire contacts I had 25-30 yrs ago when I was buyng tires for FARMALL.
But I agree, they are a really good tire. Before I put my first set on I had places in the yard I would always spin the inside tire when turning going up hill and in the ten years I've run my 'Stones all those places have healed up and are growing grass again. And as far as pulling a plow, I spun out many times with the old GY 6-12 pizza-cutter turf tires these Cubbies had stock. I can still spin with my Firestones but I've got over twice the HP in my plowing tractor now.
I will say my 23-8.50's which were only ever made in 2 ply mounted up a lot easier than the 4=ply 26-12.00's did. I'd recommend running tubes in them, even though they're a tubeless tire. Less chance of them slipping on the rim.
But I agree, they are a really good tire. Before I put my first set on I had places in the yard I would always spin the inside tire when turning going up hill and in the ten years I've run my 'Stones all those places have healed up and are growing grass again. And as far as pulling a plow, I spun out many times with the old GY 6-12 pizza-cutter turf tires these Cubbies had stock. I can still spin with my Firestones but I've got over twice the HP in my plowing tractor now.
I will say my 23-8.50's which were only ever made in 2 ply mounted up a lot easier than the 4=ply 26-12.00's did. I'd recommend running tubes in them, even though they're a tubeless tire. Less chance of them slipping on the rim.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Al W.-
You probably tightened them too much if you followed the instructions to a T. Tighten them such that one thread is showing on each nut.
Also, did you check/replace any driveshaft components? If the driveshaft is wobbling due to bad spherical ball bushings in either coupler, that'll contribute as well.
You probably tightened them too much if you followed the instructions to a T. Tighten them such that one thread is showing on each nut.
Also, did you check/replace any driveshaft components? If the driveshaft is wobbling due to bad spherical ball bushings in either coupler, that'll contribute as well.
