Kraig,
Looks like I might wear out another scanner with this sucker!
Looks like I might wear out another scanner with this sucker!
-
This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.
Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades
Archive through April 30, 2007
- Thread starter kweaver
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Charlie, wow! That should keep you busy for a while.
Brian R.
kide
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2006
- Messages
- 3,779
- displayname
- Gerry Ide
Actually, Kohler didn't outright eliminate the use of multi-viscosity oils.. Here's what's in the instruction sheets that came with the K-301 replacement I put in the 129 in '96..
I run 10-30 in the winter, change it as soon as the weather warms up..
I run 10-30 in the winter, change it as soon as the weather warms up..
I have a new engine ready to drop into my freshly painted 125 and the only thing I have left to do is reassemble the front PTO. Do I really need to invest in the rebuild kit or can I just scuff up the discs and put it back together? Does the tension spring wear out? Does anyone have intructions or pictures to help me out? It has been awhile since I took it apart and my memory is not as good as it once was. I do remember it was a bi#@$ to get off.
Thanks for any help,
Jim
Thanks for any help,
Jim
Jim M,
If it were mine and I spent all that time and money doing new and making it look good, I think I'd go for the extra 30 or 40 bucks for a PTO kit IMHO.
http://cubfaq.com/mechanical_pto.html
If it were mine and I spent all that time and money doing new and making it look good, I think I'd go for the extra 30 or 40 bucks for a PTO kit IMHO.
http://cubfaq.com/mechanical_pto.html
JIM - If the PTO clutch was working fine before it shouldn't be a problem reinstalling it or using it. There's instructions in the rebuild kits. Most important thing is the spring tension setting tool. I put the old clutch from My K241 on the K321 I rebuilt. I suspect it may slip a bit on a hard pull but that's O-K. The clutch on My K301 did too.
An other aspect of the oil debate is the API classifcation .I read in one of the trade mags. that the new SM oils dosen't lube the lifters in a flat tapit cam well and could led to early failure.It said to use ether older oil or oil that meets the diesel spec.CF or better.The kolers as well as older engins all have nonroller cams.
Ok, I don't want to continue the oil debate, so I'm not asking what I should put in my engine or transaxle (is that the correct term?) in my 106. What I would like to know is, if my tranny has Hy-tran in it, and I was going to put 30wt, or if it had 30wt, and I was going to switch to Hy-tran, would I need to flush it, or clean the old fluid out somehow? And now, to really push my luck, I've got some generic "All purpose Hydraulic and Tractor fluid" that says it meets MS-1209 (and a dozen other specifications). Is that equivalent to Hy-Tran? Thanks!
Christopher C.
As far as I know there's nothing REALLY equivalent to Hytran.
In your 106, you can run Hytran, you can run 30 weight, or you can run anything equivalent to 30 weight, It really doesn't make a lot of difference in a gear drive EXCEPT for the water retention properties of Hytran.
Now if youo check the rearend on a regular bases and it doesn't set outside all the time, I'd put what ever you want in that thing.
Since your up in Maine and if you use your Cub in the winter. Hytran might be a better choice just to get it moving a little faster when it gets chilly or down right COLD!
As far as I know there's nothing REALLY equivalent to Hytran.
In your 106, you can run Hytran, you can run 30 weight, or you can run anything equivalent to 30 weight, It really doesn't make a lot of difference in a gear drive EXCEPT for the water retention properties of Hytran.
Now if youo check the rearend on a regular bases and it doesn't set outside all the time, I'd put what ever you want in that thing.
Since your up in Maine and if you use your Cub in the winter. Hytran might be a better choice just to get it moving a little faster when it gets chilly or down right COLD!
Charlie,
That link was exactly what I was looking for. I went through the FAQ's but must have missed it. However, it looks like that link is missing a page. It goes from 2-69 to 2-71. And of course the picture I wanted to see is on 2-70. I can't remember where the springs on the screws go. I guess I will buy the rebuild kit. The instructions also said to install 3 friction discs and mine only had 2 in it. I don't think it has ever been apart before. Not sure on that one.
Thanks,
Jim
That link was exactly what I was looking for. I went through the FAQ's but must have missed it. However, it looks like that link is missing a page. It goes from 2-69 to 2-71. And of course the picture I wanted to see is on 2-70. I can't remember where the springs on the screws go. I guess I will buy the rebuild kit. The instructions also said to install 3 friction discs and mine only had 2 in it. I don't think it has ever been apart before. Not sure on that one.
Thanks,
Jim
Charlie,
Is Hytran better for damp conditions? With the temp swings we get, condensation is a problem. Would 30wt or Hytran be better for that? I do plan to use it to plow the driveway when we get only a few inches of snow. More than that, and I think I'll need to use my walk-behind snowblower.
Is Hytran better for damp conditions? With the temp swings we get, condensation is a problem. Would 30wt or Hytran be better for that? I do plan to use it to plow the driveway when we get only a few inches of snow. More than that, and I think I'll need to use my walk-behind snowblower.
Thanks Charlie but,
What I was worried about was not so much the debate but all the time everyone lost posting to the debate, nice day to be outside. Thanks Ken I checked all the grounding and wiring again, I recleaned it even though it was shiney and restarted it. It even charges now (must have been a ghost I reckon) anyways I went thru the carb and started from scratch with everything turned all the way in, now it runs good and I just finished mowing the yard. checked the drive belt and had to adjust it all the way out to get belt to pull, tis what I get for letting advanced auto cross reference the IH number to one of their numbers. Done decided I will find a cub dealer tomorrow somewhere and go get the sediment bowl gasket and the right belt and air filter for this 174. biggest problem I have having now is getting the throttle handle to stay on high while I'm mowing, keeps vibrating back to middle
What I was worried about was not so much the debate but all the time everyone lost posting to the debate, nice day to be outside. Thanks Ken I checked all the grounding and wiring again, I recleaned it even though it was shiney and restarted it. It even charges now (must have been a ghost I reckon) anyways I went thru the carb and started from scratch with everything turned all the way in, now it runs good and I just finished mowing the yard. checked the drive belt and had to adjust it all the way out to get belt to pull, tis what I get for letting advanced auto cross reference the IH number to one of their numbers. Done decided I will find a cub dealer tomorrow somewhere and go get the sediment bowl gasket and the right belt and air filter for this 174. biggest problem I have having now is getting the throttle handle to stay on high while I'm mowing, keeps vibrating back to middle
Similar threads
