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Archive through April 30, 2007
- Thread starter kweaver
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
I don't use the "Official", it makes the line too long.
KENtuckyKEN / Kraig McC.,
You don't need to bother searching the archives for the blown engine example...I believe you.
KENtuckyKEN,
I still, however, stand by my earlier statement (No, I didn't do a scientific study and generate a raft of statistical supporting data to support my statement) that MORE ENGINES DIE FROM THE LACK OF OIL THAN FROM USING THE WRONG OIL. So, the point I was trying to stress was it's more important to be concerned with regularly checking & ensuring the proper oil level is maintained - versus - whether or not a person is using a multi-viscosity or single-weight motor oil. We all know that these old Kohlers don't have a oil pump and rely on splash for lubrication. There has also been lengthy discussions here regarding the use of these tractors on inclines and hillsides and how it effects the lubrication process and shortens the life of these engines (IIRC, that fact is mentioned in one of the OEM manuals). The type of oil likely won't help much in those non-level operations; (although I'd bet CERMA would help in such cases!).
If you choose to use straight weight oils - fine. I won't argue with your choice. The only thing I'd suggest/remind you of is when you want to fire it up when it's <30*F, I'd suggest you warm the engine oil in some way or fashion....straight 30 or 40wgt oil doesn't splash too well at those low temps.
Ryan W
You don't need to bother searching the archives for the blown engine example...I believe you.
KENtuckyKEN,
I still, however, stand by my earlier statement (No, I didn't do a scientific study and generate a raft of statistical supporting data to support my statement) that MORE ENGINES DIE FROM THE LACK OF OIL THAN FROM USING THE WRONG OIL. So, the point I was trying to stress was it's more important to be concerned with regularly checking & ensuring the proper oil level is maintained - versus - whether or not a person is using a multi-viscosity or single-weight motor oil. We all know that these old Kohlers don't have a oil pump and rely on splash for lubrication. There has also been lengthy discussions here regarding the use of these tractors on inclines and hillsides and how it effects the lubrication process and shortens the life of these engines (IIRC, that fact is mentioned in one of the OEM manuals). The type of oil likely won't help much in those non-level operations; (although I'd bet CERMA would help in such cases!).
If you choose to use straight weight oils - fine. I won't argue with your choice. The only thing I'd suggest/remind you of is when you want to fire it up when it's <30*F, I'd suggest you warm the engine oil in some way or fashion....straight 30 or 40wgt oil doesn't splash too well at those low temps.
Ryan W
Hey!
If it's slick and says engine oil on the side of the can/plastic bottle, use it.
Years ago, my dad used to add when when his engine started rattling, LOL
Don't think he ever touched a dip stick on any engine.
Personally I never start anything without checking the oil even on something that I know never uses any.
If it's slick and says engine oil on the side of the can/plastic bottle, use it.
Years ago, my dad used to add when when his engine started rattling, LOL
Don't think he ever touched a dip stick on any engine.
Personally I never start anything without checking the oil even on something that I know never uses any.
Ryan - I'm still searching , I don't like NOT being able to find something 
My cubs are 3 season use only since we don't usally get that much snow and I have no snow removal equipment anyway.
We <u>ALL</u> have to remember that some topics such as oil is season related and geographic related.
Just got company .....
My cubs are 3 season use only since we don't usally get that much snow and I have no snow removal equipment anyway.
We <u>ALL</u> have to remember that some topics such as oil is season related and geographic related.
Just got company .....
Charlie P.,
LOLOL! My dad was the same way!
In fact, I recall my ol' dad used to dump his old motor oil into a 5-gallon pail. Once the pail was about full, and a couple of days had pasted since the last oil addition to the pail, he'd slowly pour/skim off the top couple of quarts into glass quart jars and then re-add those quarts of 'settled-out' oil in the tractors/trucks that 'used' oil..... He never changed the oil in those nor did he never look at the dipstick; he just listened for the rattle...THEN he'd notice that the oil pressure gage was fluttering...and only then would he add a quart!
KENtuckyKEN,
Yeah, agreed.... We ALL SHOULD REMEMBER (that oil is season related and geographic related), but I make mention of it for the simple reason that I know some of us need reminding from time-to-time & that some of us forget things as we get older!
--- It's all good!!!
Ryan W
LOLOL! My dad was the same way!
In fact, I recall my ol' dad used to dump his old motor oil into a 5-gallon pail. Once the pail was about full, and a couple of days had pasted since the last oil addition to the pail, he'd slowly pour/skim off the top couple of quarts into glass quart jars and then re-add those quarts of 'settled-out' oil in the tractors/trucks that 'used' oil..... He never changed the oil in those nor did he never look at the dipstick; he just listened for the rattle...THEN he'd notice that the oil pressure gage was fluttering...and only then would he add a quart!
KENtuckyKEN,
Yeah, agreed.... We ALL SHOULD REMEMBER (that oil is season related and geographic related), but I make mention of it for the simple reason that I know some of us need reminding from time-to-time & that some of us forget things as we get older!
--- It's all good!!!
Ryan W
Hi, I'm a new member here, I just picked up a 106 this weekend. It's got a mower deck (need to check what size it is) and a plow blade. It seems to run well, and is in pretty good shape overall. The PO rebuilt the clutch, but for some reason replaced the "wear button" with a grade 8 bolt. He said it didn't last long before the clutch blew up. So, I've got all the manuals for this machine on order from Binder Books, and thanks to the FAQ page, I was able to identify the parts I need for the clutch, and get them on order too. I'm planning on going through the tractor, and adjust the clutch, brake etc., change all the fluids, and just generally tune it up and get it ready to work. I'm planning on using Mobil 1 10w-30 for the engine, and I'll drain the rear end and if it's pink, I'll use Hy-Tran, and if it's black, I'll use 90W. Does that sound reasonable? I know oil is a touchy subject, so please be nice! Thanks!
I'll post pics ASAP, too!
I'll post pics ASAP, too!
Christopher - Your 106 will not use the Hy-Tran as it's not a hydro. You should use a good 30wt not 90.
Hey Bryan - Cerma offers their proof. There is FINALLY a product out there that the company WILL stand behind 100% !
Hey Bryan - Cerma offers their proof. There is FINALLY a product out there that the company WILL stand behind 100% !
Ken,
I thought the manual called for Hy-Tran in both the gear and hydro drive models, but I could be wrong. After 36 years, who knows what is in there! Here's a dumb question: do the transmission and differential "share" the same oil, or are they separate? Thanks!
I thought the manual called for Hy-Tran in both the gear and hydro drive models, but I could be wrong. After 36 years, who knows what is in there! Here's a dumb question: do the transmission and differential "share" the same oil, or are they separate? Thanks!
Christopher - Since I'm doing an oil related search in my old archives I've been reading a lot of old post that said to use 30wt ... but double check in the FAQs to be sure.
The trans and diff share the same oil.
The trans and diff share the same oil.
Gentlemen,
How about 2 new topics for the FAQs,
#1 Why a person should not ask about oil
#2 Why Karl (thats me) should keep his mouth shut
I want to thank everyone for their advice, the 10w 30 I tried just did'nt sound right or look right. I did find some heavy duty 30 weight and the marvelous marvin stuff and replaced it last night. the 30 weight had on the package it is meant for heavy duty farm and garden equipment and it sounded better in the motor.When I said I had it idling for an hour I meant I had it running but speeding it up and down trying to get the throttle to set in one spot, it keeps coming back to midway when I let it loose. I also put the mower deck lift bracket and the deck on it and now the clutch and brake hit something before it will disengage the transmission, which is was not doing that before the bracket was installed. It also stops when it gets hot(will not even turn over) but starts great as soon as it cools off and I have cleaned all the wire connections like advised on here, new battery to boot and it is charging. As I said this mower had been setting since 1971 in a garage until 2 weeks ago
How about 2 new topics for the FAQs,
#1 Why a person should not ask about oil
#2 Why Karl (thats me) should keep his mouth shut
I want to thank everyone for their advice, the 10w 30 I tried just did'nt sound right or look right. I did find some heavy duty 30 weight and the marvelous marvin stuff and replaced it last night. the 30 weight had on the package it is meant for heavy duty farm and garden equipment and it sounded better in the motor.When I said I had it idling for an hour I meant I had it running but speeding it up and down trying to get the throttle to set in one spot, it keeps coming back to midway when I let it loose. I also put the mower deck lift bracket and the deck on it and now the clutch and brake hit something before it will disengage the transmission, which is was not doing that before the bracket was installed. It also stops when it gets hot(will not even turn over) but starts great as soon as it cools off and I have cleaned all the wire connections like advised on here, new battery to boot and it is charging. As I said this mower had been setting since 1971 in a garage until 2 weeks ago
A while back someone asked how to tell the diff from Series I/II KT's ...
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
By Kmcgiver (Kmcgiver) on Thursday, April 6, 2000 - 09:50 pm:
Travis:
All KT's have oil pumps. The KT series one ran about 5 psi and went strait to the cam. The cam had holes it which oiled the rods (NOT GOOD on HILLS). The KT series II had full pressure lubrication to mains, rods, and cam. The way to identify a series II: On the side of the engine opposite the starter near the bottom toward the PTO end of the engine there will be a plate held on with two allen head bolts if it is a series II. If there is no plate it is the original KT. The plate is for an optional oil filter adapter.
hope this helps .
MAC<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
By Kmcgiver (Kmcgiver) on Thursday, April 6, 2000 - 09:50 pm:
Travis:
All KT's have oil pumps. The KT series one ran about 5 psi and went strait to the cam. The cam had holes it which oiled the rods (NOT GOOD on HILLS). The KT series II had full pressure lubrication to mains, rods, and cam. The way to identify a series II: On the side of the engine opposite the starter near the bottom toward the PTO end of the engine there will be a plate held on with two allen head bolts if it is a series II. If there is no plate it is the original KT. The plate is for an optional oil filter adapter.
hope this helps .
MAC<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
Karl - If the engine is heating up getting hot that may be why it wont crank over when hot. If that is the case then pull the engine shroud off because there may be a bunch of mice nest stuff in there. BTDT!!
If it was cranking but not firing then I'd say the coil is about to go.
If it was cranking but not firing then I'd say the coil is about to go.
Thanks Ken,
I already checked for the nest and stuff from some stuff I had read on here, it is clean but I will remove the shroud and try that. this was a very nice sealed garage it was in, just hid in the back behind other stuff they had put in it
I already checked for the nest and stuff from some stuff I had read on here, it is clean but I will remove the shroud and try that. this was a very nice sealed garage it was in, just hid in the back behind other stuff they had put in it
Gary L.
Regarding your mule drive question for your rear mounted tiller operation. If your 1250 has a 38" mower deck with the big center blade and pulley, then that's the mule drive you need to use for tiller operation as the idler pulley arms are straight rather than angled. Getting the solid pulleys with replaceable bearings will ensure years of trouble free operation.
I believe the tiller belt length on the Quietline series is a little longer than the 8/9 series because the electric clutch pulley is a little bigger diameter. Also, I think the QL's use a 1/2" wide belt whereas the 8/9 series belt is a little narrower (15/32"?) belt which was a special IH feature back on those days to ensure steady replacement belt sales
.
Regarding your mule drive question for your rear mounted tiller operation. If your 1250 has a 38" mower deck with the big center blade and pulley, then that's the mule drive you need to use for tiller operation as the idler pulley arms are straight rather than angled. Getting the solid pulleys with replaceable bearings will ensure years of trouble free operation.
I believe the tiller belt length on the Quietline series is a little longer than the 8/9 series because the electric clutch pulley is a little bigger diameter. Also, I think the QL's use a 1/2" wide belt whereas the 8/9 series belt is a little narrower (15/32"?) belt which was a special IH feature back on those days to ensure steady replacement belt sales
Karl - I forgot now which model you have but , next check and double check all the grounds where parts bolt together ie ... engine/starter , engine/ground , voltage regulator/frame .. you get the idea. All else fails take a car jumper cable set and ground from battery to starter directly, that'll tell ya if the ground is at fault. Otherwise the starter may need rebuilt.
LAST ONE from the "oldies" that'll I'll post
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
Hal Hadaller on Monday, April 17, 2000 - 08:29 am:
Installed my new KT17 engine on my 682 Cadet. Started on the 2nd flip. Sounds real good. Glad that I read the attached tags as one says not to use multigrade oil - just SAE 30. Causes increased fuel consumption and deposits.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
LAST ONE from the "oldies" that'll I'll post
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
Hal Hadaller on Monday, April 17, 2000 - 08:29 am:
Installed my new KT17 engine on my 682 Cadet. Started on the 2nd flip. Sounds real good. Glad that I read the attached tags as one says not to use multigrade oil - just SAE 30. Causes increased fuel consumption and deposits.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
Karl S.
The GREAT OIL DEBATE is always a good topic once and a while.
And to EVERYONE!
I will say this though.
NEVER, and I mean NEVER hesitate to ask ANY question.
But by all means don't get all bent out of shape when someone, MOSTLY ME, tells ya to hit the FAQ pages.
There's been many many people over the years that put a lot of work into answering questions and the purpose of BOTH FAQ sections is to make it easier for your new guys and some of the old ones too, ME AGAIN!
Life's to freakin short to be so thin skinned gang, Besides,and to quote someone we all know! It's just a freakin garden tractor for god sake!
Like they say, there's no such thing as a dumb or stupid question.
The GREAT OIL DEBATE is always a good topic once and a while.
And to EVERYONE!
I will say this though.
NEVER, and I mean NEVER hesitate to ask ANY question.
But by all means don't get all bent out of shape when someone, MOSTLY ME, tells ya to hit the FAQ pages.
There's been many many people over the years that put a lot of work into answering questions and the purpose of BOTH FAQ sections is to make it easier for your new guys and some of the old ones too, ME AGAIN!
Life's to freakin short to be so thin skinned gang, Besides,and to quote someone we all know! It's just a freakin garden tractor for god sake!
Like they say, there's no such thing as a dumb or stupid question.
Grump,
If you don't quit makin the page go WIDE, I'm gonna have the wife whoop up on you!
If you don't quit makin the page go WIDE, I'm gonna have the wife whoop up on you!
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