I have all the correct linkage in the correct spots as far as I can see. I even switched out the spring with a different one just to see and it made no difference. I did adjust the governor after I put in the new shaft and butterfly. A friend of mine told me that it could be the intake valve not seating all the way and when going down hill the force causes the engine to speed up and suck in more gas but the only problem with the is that I have 85ish lbs of cylinder pressure at mid throttle. I’m almost ready to put it by the road with a free sign..
Archive through April 28, 2010
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Lucas, The white smoke is combustion gases that have leaked past the piston rings,when the engines fires the fuel mixture in the cylinder. A small amount of leakage occurs even in a healthy engine. The reed valve (#3) allows the blowby to be expelled from the crankcase,but prevents a reverse airflow into the crankcase. The result being that a Kohler (and many other engines) run with a slight negative (less than atmospheric ) pressure in the crankcase. See the Kohler engine manual,section 4 pages 2&3 on how to measure for a negative. A slight "pulsing" at the cover might be found,as long as there is a "negative" in the crankcase. If you follow the test procedure and know that the breather assembly is installed correctly, and get a positive reading, worn rings,cracked piston or scuffed cylinder walls are likely causes. Also make sure the crankcase is not over full of oil.
The breather assembly must have all the parts and be assembled correctly to work. Part #2 has a small drain back hole that must be at the bottom. Part #6,the filter, uses the coaslescing principal to remove the oil vapor from the gases and allow it to return to the crankcase through the drain back hole in #2. Part #3, the reed, must lay flat and seal the two large holes in #2,when the parts are at rest. Let us know what you find.
The breather assembly must have all the parts and be assembled correctly to work. Part #2 has a small drain back hole that must be at the bottom. Part #6,the filter, uses the coaslescing principal to remove the oil vapor from the gases and allow it to return to the crankcase through the drain back hole in #2. Part #3, the reed, must lay flat and seal the two large holes in #2,when the parts are at rest. Let us know what you find.
When my 122 engin is under load a little white smoke comes out the exaust and every time I accelerate it misss a little then black smoke comes out when I let off the clutch in 3rd gear white smoke comes out I have a broken teaser spring which puts extra srain on the engin
is this all a carb problem
is this all a carb problem
Kentuck,
Well yea!
Well yea!
Lucas, Perhaps you have more than one problem. Suggest you read section 6 on fuel systems and governor. Probably you should check one system at a time and verify settings and adjustments. The manual covers several models,so be careful that the instructions apply to yours. Get a manual or download one,it is well written and an easy read with good illustrations. One of the situations with Kohlers is that the throttle shaft gets loose in the carb body and can make them run "funny",there is a fix. Ck ign points gap and condition and sparkplug condition and gap.
Gary , degrease that thing before going any further then run it,you should be able to see the leak then . could be the crank seal behind the PTO ,could be higher running down or like the others said it could be one of the hydro lines going to the fron outlets.
The dealer quoted you mounts and an oil pan probably because the mounts ware and the engine drops and wares the pan .Also the holes get stripped since its aluminum .
The dealer quoted you mounts and an oil pan probably because the mounts ware and the engine drops and wares the pan .Also the holes get stripped since its aluminum .
J
jott
Guest
What is the main drive belt size for a timed mower deck on an Original? (from the engine to the deck)
Josh, CUBFAQ #4 page 1 looks to be 1/2" x 82".
Frank C., according to Don, BIRTHY HAPDAY!
J
jott
Guest
Does he need some spankings?lol
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
By K G Ide (Kide) on Wednesday, April 28, 2010 - 03:51 pm:
Ref: Setting timing...
Kohler provided the static timing method for those cases where the mechanic might not have a timing light...There is no direction correlation between point gap and position of the piston - the correlation is the position of the piston WHEN the points open, which is why using a timing light on a running engine (or a VOM on a static engine) is preferable to just setting point gap.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
Kendell,
Would you please explain more (in layman's terms) on how to use a VOM to set static timing?
Thanks!
Ryan W
By K G Ide (Kide) on Wednesday, April 28, 2010 - 03:51 pm:
Ref: Setting timing...
Kohler provided the static timing method for those cases where the mechanic might not have a timing light...There is no direction correlation between point gap and position of the piston - the correlation is the position of the piston WHEN the points open, which is why using a timing light on a running engine (or a VOM on a static engine) is preferable to just setting point gap.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
Kendell,
Would you please explain more (in layman's terms) on how to use a VOM to set static timing?
Thanks!
Ryan W
Looks like a slow day on here so I'll posts this. I took this past Tuesday off from work to catch up on some work around the house. I needed to organize my shed so that I could get the <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> Windbreaker cab off the #2 125 and stowed for the summer. Then I needed to get the mower deck connected up so that I could chop up some Oak leaves that I got from my brother. Aside from compost, Oak leaves are the best soil amendment that I've found. A few weeks back I had dumped the leaves in a pile in the garden. Before tilling them in I run the mower through them chopping them up and spreading them around. I'll till them in in a week or so. In case you don't know this is called sheet composting. The blades on the 42" deck are really dull but I didn't want to sharpen them before I chopped up the leaves. I still have to haul another 15 or so bags of leaves so there'll be more leaves to chop up. The lawn needed mowing, so I went ahead and mowed with the dull blades. I was surprised how well those dull blades cut. After that I cut up some more fire wood. I have just a little to cut up then it'll be time to start splitting and stacking it. Then I went out to the farm and removed the snowblower from my mom's JD X585 GT, installed front weights and hooked up the 4' brush mower. I have 130 or so trees on order for wildlife habitat improvement so I needed to mow some areas to prep for tree planting. So, even though it was getting late I went ahead and mowed. I also mowed the rifle range and two paddock areas, no photos of the work at the farm but here's the photo trail of my work at home.
Busy day! Wish I could be this productive every day. I should mention that Monday evening I changed the oil in both cars. I'm beat, well maybe I'm just getting:
I added a shelf above the windows and filled some coffee cans with nuts bolts etc. and labeled them.
Yeah I know, it doesn't look organized.
Here's the leaves all chopped up and spread around. I have more leaves to get from my brother's place to mine. Then another round of chopping before I till it all up.
Dull blades mow OK.
I added a shelf above the windows and filled some coffee cans with nuts bolts etc. and labeled them.
Yeah I know, it doesn't look organized.
Here's the leaves all chopped up and spread around. I have more leaves to get from my brother's place to mine. Then another round of chopping before I till it all up.
Dull blades mow OK.
Here's one. I'll find more to post soon.
Here's another:
One more:
Rich, Ken, Jeff:
Thanks for the comments and taking time to guide me through. Much appreciated. Had to quit last night as my skin at the nails cracked. Anyway, to answer, I believe it is oil, but I'll check when it gets run. I did add about 5 qts of Hytran up to the plug three weeks ago when I changed the fluid and put in a new gasket. I've cut grass three times since, dropping 2/3 qt of oil on each occasion cutting 2 1/2 acres. I'll check the Hytran level today at the plug. I'll be back working on the Cub this afternoon and I'll clean up more. Thus far I've removed about four pounds of oil soaked grass. I'm going slowly so it's taken longer to remove the stuff, degrease, and keep track of where and what I remove than I thought it would. The front axles, inside front wheels, air duct, grill, oil filler tube were caked. I've begun by degreasing everything from the PTO side of the engine and in front of the heat deflector. I see nothing, so far, after the heat deflector that indicates a leak. After the check I’ll send more pictures. Is there anything I need to know about the clutch in front of the seal? A buddy said something about an air gap. I have no idea what that is. Finally do I need to remove all the bolts on the clutch or will the bolt at the rotor allow the whole thing to come off in one piece?
Thanks for the comments and taking time to guide me through. Much appreciated. Had to quit last night as my skin at the nails cracked. Anyway, to answer, I believe it is oil, but I'll check when it gets run. I did add about 5 qts of Hytran up to the plug three weeks ago when I changed the fluid and put in a new gasket. I've cut grass three times since, dropping 2/3 qt of oil on each occasion cutting 2 1/2 acres. I'll check the Hytran level today at the plug. I'll be back working on the Cub this afternoon and I'll clean up more. Thus far I've removed about four pounds of oil soaked grass. I'm going slowly so it's taken longer to remove the stuff, degrease, and keep track of where and what I remove than I thought it would. The front axles, inside front wheels, air duct, grill, oil filler tube were caked. I've begun by degreasing everything from the PTO side of the engine and in front of the heat deflector. I see nothing, so far, after the heat deflector that indicates a leak. After the check I’ll send more pictures. Is there anything I need to know about the clutch in front of the seal? A buddy said something about an air gap. I have no idea what that is. Finally do I need to remove all the bolts on the clutch or will the bolt at the rotor allow the whole thing to come off in one piece?
Gary, you probably won't need all this info but here's how the PTO comes off.
