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Archive through April 25, 2009
- Thread starter sstanton
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
kide
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2006
- Messages
- 3,779
- displayname
- Gerry Ide
Scott:
The surface of that center button wants to be a smooth as you can make it. As you've got it all together, you might want to consider shining that up once you've got it on the tractor...(CAREFULLY apply an abrasive - I'm thinking maybe a fine stone or flex wheel in a dremel tool, with the clutch rotating to clean it up) This is potentially dangerous, but I can guarantee that if it's left rough, it'll chew up a new fiber replacement pronto (and a brass one in a little more time..)
The surface of that center button wants to be a smooth as you can make it. As you've got it all together, you might want to consider shining that up once you've got it on the tractor...(CAREFULLY apply an abrasive - I'm thinking maybe a fine stone or flex wheel in a dremel tool, with the clutch rotating to clean it up) This is potentially dangerous, but I can guarantee that if it's left rough, it'll chew up a new fiber replacement pronto (and a brass one in a little more time..)
Two questions:
1) I have a 149 and the engine has a lot of blow by at the dipstick. It was like that when I purchased it last spring. It used and or blows out about 1/2 quart after 2-3 hours of mowing. I was told that maybe the reed? valve was put it upside down. Could this be true? There is no smoke at all coming from the exaust and it runs strong. Could it be rings?
2) I have a 44" deck on the 149 and need blades. How well do the gator blades work on these? Do they put more strain on an old engine than it is worth? The blades that are on now don't mulch the grass at all, just slices it off and leaves it laying. Are there any other options on blades that would do a better job on mulching?
Thanks,
Chip
1) I have a 149 and the engine has a lot of blow by at the dipstick. It was like that when I purchased it last spring. It used and or blows out about 1/2 quart after 2-3 hours of mowing. I was told that maybe the reed? valve was put it upside down. Could this be true? There is no smoke at all coming from the exaust and it runs strong. Could it be rings?
2) I have a 44" deck on the 149 and need blades. How well do the gator blades work on these? Do they put more strain on an old engine than it is worth? The blades that are on now don't mulch the grass at all, just slices it off and leaves it laying. Are there any other options on blades that would do a better job on mulching?
Thanks,
Chip
I was under the impression that the higher up a throttle shaft was, the worse it's shape was. I have a carb soaking now and I don't see how a bushing will limit vertical movement. What am I missing? Also the intake gasket that was on there is about a 1/4 inch thick. My replacement is considerably thiner I don't know what's up with that unless it's an after market idea of creating a bit of a swirl space for atomization. I chickened out on removing the fuel inlet. It appeared threaded but I was afraid I'd crack the body trying to remove it. Charlie I'll be making an order, not sure when, for a air filter housing gasket and a hight speed needle jet. That thing has a tip like an o-ring pick.
Thomas H,
Welcome to the forum!! For the belt length, we have the "Frequently Asked Questions" link near the top of the page. If you click on that, there will be another FAQ link to cubfaq.com which as a number of helpful tips you can use in learning more about your 1200. Also you can go directly to the belt reference info by using the following address: http://cubfaq.com/belts.html and click on Page 1.
You can't use regular stock drive belts for the PTO/mower deck drive due to the various turns the belt makes going from the engine to the deck. You either have to get an OEM belt or a high performance belt.
As for getting parts, check out the fine sponsor buttons at the top of the page. I'm sure they can fix you right up with the parts you need and they will know what you are talking about and needing. It sounds like you need an operators manual and service manual to make sure you 1200 is set up properly. Binder Books can fix you right up with those as well. The CC parts lookup link above is also very useful in finding the needed part number information and seeing illustrations on how part should go together. Hope this helps.
Welcome to the forum!! For the belt length, we have the "Frequently Asked Questions" link near the top of the page. If you click on that, there will be another FAQ link to cubfaq.com which as a number of helpful tips you can use in learning more about your 1200. Also you can go directly to the belt reference info by using the following address: http://cubfaq.com/belts.html and click on Page 1.
You can't use regular stock drive belts for the PTO/mower deck drive due to the various turns the belt makes going from the engine to the deck. You either have to get an OEM belt or a high performance belt.
As for getting parts, check out the fine sponsor buttons at the top of the page. I'm sure they can fix you right up with the parts you need and they will know what you are talking about and needing. It sounds like you need an operators manual and service manual to make sure you 1200 is set up properly. Binder Books can fix you right up with those as well. The CC parts lookup link above is also very useful in finding the needed part number information and seeing illustrations on how part should go together. Hope this helps.
proessler
Well-known member
FYI Farm & Fleet has sale on 340 cca Lawn & Garden (Johnson Controls) batteries-- Reg. $29 minus $10 rebate..., also $10 Rebate on a battery charger!
Ron. Thanks for the reply.
When I got off of work @ 12 I came home and pulled the driveshaft assembly out, and added a 3/4" long extension to the end of the shaft, and used a 3/4" bit in the drill press to make a full concave in the end. I put it all together and low and behold for the first time in the 3 years Ive had it, there are no vibrations from the drive setup, other than from a slightly sloppy front pivot.
The belt I have been using, one was from a Cub dealer, he said it "should fit" and it was OEM. IT was a hair long and never really looked right, then I went to work (napa) and bought a blade runner belt, and it lasted a mowing, but was fuzzed out at the end of the mowing.
The last belt was a Stens Tru Blu belt, and it lasted the longest, but it also failed...
When I got off of work @ 12 I came home and pulled the driveshaft assembly out, and added a 3/4" long extension to the end of the shaft, and used a 3/4" bit in the drill press to make a full concave in the end. I put it all together and low and behold for the first time in the 3 years Ive had it, there are no vibrations from the drive setup, other than from a slightly sloppy front pivot.
The belt I have been using, one was from a Cub dealer, he said it "should fit" and it was OEM. IT was a hair long and never really looked right, then I went to work (napa) and bought a blade runner belt, and it lasted a mowing, but was fuzzed out at the end of the mowing.
The last belt was a Stens Tru Blu belt, and it lasted the longest, but it also failed...
Thomas H,
There's a reason your fuzzing/eating belts and you need to find it.
Checking the alignment of the mule drive pulleys, the alignment of the deck pulleys and the tension of the belt are all good places to start IMHO.
A good front to back inspection of the deck hanger and fittings would also be in order.
If you check the service manual and compare it to what you have, I'll betcha your gonna find the problem.
There's a reason your fuzzing/eating belts and you need to find it.
Checking the alignment of the mule drive pulleys, the alignment of the deck pulleys and the tension of the belt are all good places to start IMHO.
A good front to back inspection of the deck hanger and fittings would also be in order.
If you check the service manual and compare it to what you have, I'll betcha your gonna find the problem.
proessler
Well-known member
Another FYI Farm & Fleet has their own brand of Trans/hydraulic Oil w/ CIH spec..B-6 (Hytran) in 5 gallon pails about $34.00. Just passing on info in this time of Economic Stress!
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Paul-
Just my opinion, but that F&F stuff looks and smells nothing like Hytran. It's there, but I'll keep using Hytran...the 5 gallons I bought last year should get me through the summer...
Just my opinion, but that F&F stuff looks and smells nothing like Hytran. It's there, but I'll keep using Hytran...the 5 gallons I bought last year should get me through the summer...
lscarduzio
Member
- Joined
- Apr 10, 2009
- Messages
- 14
- displayname
- Lisa Scarduzio
Chip, gator blades are great! I put them on my 149's 44 inch deck last year and wished i had put them on sooner.
I was out mowing today with the 129, trying to bring under control about 12 days worth of fresh spring grass. I had freshly sharpened blades, so although I was working her a bit, she was handling it in stride for the first acre and a half of my slightly more than 2 acre lawn, but then it started to misfire, like it was starved for fuel. I confirmed it was a fuel system problem by pulling out the choke, which made it run temporarily better, and this let me nurse it back to the garage.
I suspected that something was plugging up the fuel system, so I disconnected the fuel line from the carburetor to see if fuel was making it past the petcock, which it was. I reattached the fuel line and pulled the bowl off of the carburetor, and fuel seemed to be coming out okay, so I put it all back together and after about 20 minutes more, it started starving for fuel again.
I decided to grab a beer and let it cool off for a while, and attacked the problem again, figuring that something was intermittently blocking off the fuel. I pulled the fuel bowl again, disconnected the fuel line, and shot compressed air back through the petcock valve, and made an attempt to back blow air through the needle valve area, but without removing the float, figuring I might dislodge something there.
Well, I put it all back together again, and it ran great for about 10 or 15 minutes, but started to die again. I was within 5 minutes of finishing up when it happened again. I pulled the fuel bowl, made sure there was gas in the tank, and added some extra in case, and repeated the previous drill. This time, it started to die after only a couple of minutes, so I decided to finish up with the Simplicity.
I still suspect a clogged jet or needle valve, but I also noticed a noise coming from the carburetor after the engine was shut off, similar to water boiling in a kettle. I might also guess vapor lock, but I've never had a problem like this before with the 129, or the 102 in all the years I've mowed with it.
I've called it a day for now, but I might pull the carburetor tomorrow and clean it out properly. Any guesses or things I might not have considered?
I suspected that something was plugging up the fuel system, so I disconnected the fuel line from the carburetor to see if fuel was making it past the petcock, which it was. I reattached the fuel line and pulled the bowl off of the carburetor, and fuel seemed to be coming out okay, so I put it all back together and after about 20 minutes more, it started starving for fuel again.
I decided to grab a beer and let it cool off for a while, and attacked the problem again, figuring that something was intermittently blocking off the fuel. I pulled the fuel bowl again, disconnected the fuel line, and shot compressed air back through the petcock valve, and made an attempt to back blow air through the needle valve area, but without removing the float, figuring I might dislodge something there.
Well, I put it all back together again, and it ran great for about 10 or 15 minutes, but started to die again. I was within 5 minutes of finishing up when it happened again. I pulled the fuel bowl, made sure there was gas in the tank, and added some extra in case, and repeated the previous drill. This time, it started to die after only a couple of minutes, so I decided to finish up with the Simplicity.
I still suspect a clogged jet or needle valve, but I also noticed a noise coming from the carburetor after the engine was shut off, similar to water boiling in a kettle. I might also guess vapor lock, but I've never had a problem like this before with the 129, or the 102 in all the years I've mowed with it.
I've called it a day for now, but I might pull the carburetor tomorrow and clean it out properly. Any guesses or things I might not have considered?
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Bruce N.-
Do you have that 1/4"-ish thick gasket in place between the carb and the engine? That insulates the carb and keeps the gas inside from boiling, which sounds like it might be occurring on your tractor.
Do you have that 1/4"-ish thick gasket in place between the carb and the engine? That insulates the carb and keeps the gas inside from boiling, which sounds like it might be occurring on your tractor.
Well --- using the dirt plow was not funny. Nice boat anchor! Plow sucks in about six inches and everything comes to a stop. This is with my original. Tire chains did help dig holes faster. Good news is that the engine/clutch are willing. Thinking I need more weight.
Has anyone ever bent the lift handle with the plow onCould pull hard enough that the front wheels would come up before the plow would lift.
Has anyone ever bent the lift handle with the plow onCould pull hard enough that the front wheels would come up before the plow would lift.
mstetar
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jun 26, 2008
- Messages
- 510
- displayname
- Matt (Diesel Creek)
jerry i used my 71 to plow dirt for my pitbike track and it worked well, i couldnt push in to far either, i just kept skimming it over and over until i was down about a foot or so, i was also in soft clay with tire chains, but i hear ya on the lifting, too much like work i would back up a tad before lifting then it went much smoother! check my profile pic and see what i mean
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Jerry B.-
I think you need to adjust your plow...you have too much point... I'm pretty sure you can bend lift handles, as I've got a few in my parts pile that are bent. It also helps to pull the plow out of the ground while moving forward.
I think you need to adjust your plow...you have too much point... I'm pretty sure you can bend lift handles, as I've got a few in my parts pile that are bent. It also helps to pull the plow out of the ground while moving forward.
lpalma
Well-known member
Charlie ...Did you forget about me?
Shoot me an email
Shoot me an email
Jerry, I've pulled a 12" plow with my Original without Ags running about 5". It was marginal in Iowa soil, but worked ok AFTER getting it dialed in perfect.
As for the lift handle, they are made of spaghetti-like steel, A lift assist spring is totally a must have....and it's still tough; but it should save your handle.
As for the lift handle, they are made of spaghetti-like steel, A lift assist spring is totally a must have....and it's still tough; but it should save your handle.
