Kraig sent some video clips from Plow Day 9 and thought you might like to take a peek of the action.
CLICK HERE
CLICK HERE
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Archive through April 25, 2005
- Thread starter wcompton
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
bmcmeen
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- Oct 31, 2002
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- Bryan D. McMeen, Keeper of the Holy Hy-Tran
Jeff V. -
Yes, they're NLA from Cub Cadet. Perhaps there's a dealer or two out there that may still have a few in stock (C&G maybe?), but they've been replaced by a kit with a new shaft and 2 bearings, spacers, etc. And the price is about the same as the old bearings, so it's gonna cost ya to replace 3 bearings no matter what.
Yes, they're NLA from Cub Cadet. Perhaps there's a dealer or two out there that may still have a few in stock (C&G maybe?), but they've been replaced by a kit with a new shaft and 2 bearings, spacers, etc. And the price is about the same as the old bearings, so it's gonna cost ya to replace 3 bearings no matter what.
Charlie, thanks for posting those video clips!
rchristensen
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- Aug 12, 2006
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- Richard Christensen
Bryan
Why don't you put a picture like this in the heading.
Then below it say if you OWN a Cub Cadet you must BUY these books and then READ them before you ASK any questions on this Forum. Then list the places you can purchase these books.
I know people don't read the heading but a picture might get their attention.
Why don't you put a picture like this in the heading.
Then below it say if you OWN a Cub Cadet you must BUY these books and then READ them before you ASK any questions on this Forum. Then list the places you can purchase these books.
I know people don't read the heading but a picture might get their attention.
Jeff V......heres the price comparison of the spindle bearings...
759-3479........bearing changeover kit......$ 102
ST745......"waterpump" style deck bearing....$ 64
703-0115....upper flange for ST745.......$ 14.50
703-0117...lower flange for ST745.......$ 47
UNLESS the flanges are junk, buy the ST745 bearing and fix it!! You can save an extra $ 38 by doing so. Sometimes the "upgrade" or "replacement" part costs MORE than fixing the Original.
The ST745 bearings are still made (by popular demand) by BCA bearings here in the USA.....
759-3479........bearing changeover kit......$ 102
ST745......"waterpump" style deck bearing....$ 64
703-0115....upper flange for ST745.......$ 14.50
703-0117...lower flange for ST745.......$ 47
UNLESS the flanges are junk, buy the ST745 bearing and fix it!! You can save an extra $ 38 by doing so. Sometimes the "upgrade" or "replacement" part costs MORE than fixing the Original.
The ST745 bearings are still made (by popular demand) by BCA bearings here in the USA.....
Terry B,
And maybe we should check the Vault for some of your first post! heh!
And maybe we should check the Vault for some of your first post! heh!
bmcmeen
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- Bryan D. McMeen, Keeper of the Holy Hy-Tran
Terry B./Charlie -
Hmmmmmmm - I can change the text of the Preview/Post buttons
But then again, that doesn't seem to prompt those that are registering here to read the instructions...
Hmmmmmmm - I can change the text of the Preview/Post buttons
But then again, that doesn't seem to prompt those that are registering here to read the instructions...
Those video clips are great, gets me wanting to get my 72 running even more. Of course I'll be plowing with the Farmall Super M but the 72 has the disc!
Now I find that I have to spend another week on the road, I sure hope I have time to get the 72 ready before I head to the farm. Thats the big problem with this playing at farming thing, and with the farm being 450 miles away!
Now I find that I have to spend another week on the road, I sure hope I have time to get the 72 ready before I head to the farm. Thats the big problem with this playing at farming thing, and with the farm being 450 miles away!
Ken, i am a cub dealer, i never ordered just the bearings from cub, i always got them throught our sister store through tisco, and now tisco says that they are NLA!! i cant even get them throught stens, where do you guys get your?
Thanks, jeff
Thanks, jeff
I have a 128 that doesn't show charge on the guage. Does anyone have a simple way to see if it's the S/G, voltage regulator, or guage? I really don't want to swap all this stuff off and on. I did swap the SG already.
Tom,
If the gage moves to the negative side when starting, then the gage is working and its the regulator or the S/G. Check the voltage at the battery without the tractor running. Start the tractor and check the battery voltage. It should be greater than the off voltage. If the voltage is close to being the same then check the A or the GEN terminal on the regulator with the motor running. That terminal should be between 12 and 14 volts I believe. If its 0 volts then the S/G or wiring is the problem. If the voltage is between 12-14 then take the cover off your regulator. With the tractor running the cutout contact should be vibrating. If the contacts are not vibrating and they are on, then the contacts are most likely dirty. If they are off then the regulator might be shot.
If the gage moves to the negative side when starting, then the gage is working and its the regulator or the S/G. Check the voltage at the battery without the tractor running. Start the tractor and check the battery voltage. It should be greater than the off voltage. If the voltage is close to being the same then check the A or the GEN terminal on the regulator with the motor running. That terminal should be between 12 and 14 volts I believe. If its 0 volts then the S/G or wiring is the problem. If the voltage is between 12-14 then take the cover off your regulator. With the tractor running the cutout contact should be vibrating. If the contacts are not vibrating and they are on, then the contacts are most likely dirty. If they are off then the regulator might be shot.
rbedell
Well-known member
Tom H:
Here is a little test you can perform:
Start the engine and run it at 3,600 RPM. Using a jumper wire, temporarily ground the F terminal of the start/generator to its case or the frame. The unit should charge at this point, and you should hear a definite drop in rpm when the F terminal is grounded. That means the unit is charging, but it is an UNREGULATED CHARGE. NEVER LEAVE A MACHINE HOOKED UP THIS WAY. Provided that you have already carefully checked the continuity of the blue and the yellow wires, and both are OK, then:
(A) If the unit does NOT charge when the F terminal is grounded (no drop in RPM), the starter/generator is bad.
(B) If it DOES charge (RPM drops), the regulator is at fault.
Use this along with the wiring diagram on page 1-9 of the service manual.
Hope this helps,
Here is a little test you can perform:
Start the engine and run it at 3,600 RPM. Using a jumper wire, temporarily ground the F terminal of the start/generator to its case or the frame. The unit should charge at this point, and you should hear a definite drop in rpm when the F terminal is grounded. That means the unit is charging, but it is an UNREGULATED CHARGE. NEVER LEAVE A MACHINE HOOKED UP THIS WAY. Provided that you have already carefully checked the continuity of the blue and the yellow wires, and both are OK, then:
(A) If the unit does NOT charge when the F terminal is grounded (no drop in RPM), the starter/generator is bad.
(B) If it DOES charge (RPM drops), the regulator is at fault.
Use this along with the wiring diagram on page 1-9 of the service manual.
Hope this helps,
hey guys, i recently aquired an IH cub 682 with, you guessed it, a blown engine. can anyone tell me what other motors will fit? a new engine costs way too much, so ild like to find one in a bone yard,so i need to know what to look for. any help? thanks,john
Roland and Tom,
If (A) is the case you should temporarily short the A terminal to the BATT Terminal on the regulator to test the cut-out circuit. If the Unit then charges the cut-out section contacts could be malfunctioning.
(A) If the unit does NOT charge when the F terminal is grounded (no drop in RPM), the starter/generator is bad.
** The cut-out section contacts could be malfunctioning as well. No path back to the battery.
(B) If it DOES charge (RPM drops), the regulator is at fault.
** The cut-out section is functioning but the Voltage Current Section might not be.
If (A) is the case you should temporarily short the A terminal to the BATT Terminal on the regulator to test the cut-out circuit. If the Unit then charges the cut-out section contacts could be malfunctioning.
(A) If the unit does NOT charge when the F terminal is grounded (no drop in RPM), the starter/generator is bad.
** The cut-out section contacts could be malfunctioning as well. No path back to the battery.
(B) If it DOES charge (RPM drops), the regulator is at fault.
** The cut-out section is functioning but the Voltage Current Section might not be.
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