Just curious about your weight.
You should grab a bathroom type scale. Pull the pins on you lifting hydraulic cylinders. Put the scale under the front of your bucket. What is the scale reading?
Put the pins back in the cylinders. Jack up the back end and slide the scale under the center of the axle. Put a 2x6 on the scale so the wheels can rest on the 2x6 scale. What is the scale reading?
Measure the distance from the center of the front tire to the middle of the bucket with the bucket on the ground. The measure the distance from the center of the front tire to the center of the back tire. These 2 measurements will give you your weight ratio.
For example if your bucket to front tire measurement is 15 inches and your front tire to back tire is 30 inches then your ratio is 2:1. If you put 100 lbs in your bucket you need 50 lbs over your rear wheels.
Now lets say both measurements are the same then its a 1:1 ratio. 100 lbs in the bucket requires 100 lbs over the wheels.
So I would like 4 things,
-Uncoupled bucket weight
-Rear end weight
-Front tire to center bucket measurement
-Back tire to front tire center measurement
Remember a loader is nothing more that a fancy teeter-toter.
I inherited a cub cadet from my Dad and need some help idetifying it. By the only number I can find, 385058P, on the gear housing it looks to be a 1970. But what?? Any help would be appreciated. It has a sticker on the engine saying 10 hp kohler but no tag. To view photos go here:
Did you, by any chance, read the FAQ like it asks you to at the top of the page? Note the similarity of the number you mention and the casting code mentioned in one of the FAQ questions (shhh - here's a hint - #10)...
I bought my first cc(a 1250) at the plowday up at Travis's place. I have started to service it from one end to the other, thats when my problems started. What is the easiest way to get the drive shaft out so I can replace the cooling fan? Does anyone make metal fans or are they all plastic? Thanks in advance for the help.
Go in the with a good sized screw drive and give it a couple of light whacks (don't beat the s--t out of it though) between the friction disc and pressure plate. Lot of times the two will rust together.
Here is a Pic's of the area of your inquiry. The Tunnel Cover has to be removed to see this. There are rubber Flex Couplers on each end of the Drive Shaft that have to be removed. Then the Spirol Pin in the coupler arm will have to be removed so the coupler arm can be moved back or forward. The drive shaft then will come out. The cooling fans are all plastic. Make note of the original fan location in that it is important to have the proper position of the replacement fan (or 1-1/8" forward of the rear Flex Coupler)
anyone know where i can get the water pump style deck bearings for the newer 42" 44" and 50", i cant even get them from cub cadet with out orderign the whole spindle assy, i looked at stens, and theres are no longer available.
And the saga continues, Saturday and Sunday I spent a total of about 6 hours swapping components from the dead K161 into the "new" K161.
Getting the front pulley off was a trip, the manual is a bit vauge. Sure hope I remember how to put it back together. Kevin, it might be nice to put a little grease on the front shaft so you don't paint the pulley to the shaft, I ruined the one you sent me getting it off, had to use a bunch of PB blaster and some time with an emery cloth.
Everything seemed to go back together okay except the shroud metal seems too tight, it scrapes just a bit, figure that'll get ground down quick or I'll go crazy and get it with a file, Once its ground a bit the spot will be easy to find...
Didn't get to fire it yet because I haven't gotten a battery, hoping to get it going this saturday.