mgallinaro
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- Jun 14, 2004
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- displayname
- MICHAEL J. GALLINARO
Tsk tsk tsk...
Just cuz we moved the posting rules to another page doesn't make them any less applicable here...
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Archive through April 25, 2005
- Thread starter wcompton
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Tsk tsk tsk...
Just cuz we moved the posting rules to another page doesn't make them any less applicable here...
Thought of a new question on the way home. The gas line on my tractor is hard rubber like on a car, can I replace it with clear plastic like on a snowmobile? I've got lots of snowmobile gas line around but none of the car type.
Also would it be a good idea to add a fuel filter in that line or is the sediment bowl enough?
Also would it be a good idea to add a fuel filter in that line or is the sediment bowl enough?
rchristensen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2006
- Messages
- 933
- displayname
- Richard Christensen
Finished my Cat 0-3point hitch for Wide Frames and Quietline Cubs. It's been a long road, a lot of engineering, designing, building and then re-designing till I have something I am happy with.
My goals when I started:
1. Build something that looked like it was built by IH for Wide Frames and Quietlines.
2. Build something rugged, yet safe to operate.
3. Build something that would mount without modifying the Cub.
4. Build something that would not prevent the tractor from being used for other jobs.
The lower lift arm bracket mounts to the three lower bolts in the rear end but also have brackets forward to the axles for additional strength. I moved the draw pins forward in front of the bracket to prevent problems if you put chains on the tires.
The lift bar mounts to the rock shaft like a sleeve hitch does. The upper lift arms mount with a rod or Frankenstein bolts in the standard holes in the Cub frame. I have two mounting holes in the upper lift arm bracket where it attaches to the lift bar coming from the rock shaft. One hole gives maximum lift while the other gives less lift but provides a slower operation on lift and drop so you can do a better job leveling ground with a blade.
The top link bracket mounts to 4 studs in the upper part of the rear end.
I had thought about using the same adjustable lift arms like all Cat 0 3-point hitches use, the ones that you have to disconnect to adjust, but Ken Weaver kept after me to do it right so I built my own design. They have a lock nut which you loosen and you can adjust up or down without disconnecting the arm. Thanks Ken for making me do it right.
I built all lift arms, brackets, added chains for stability.
Unit is really stout, handles the Gannon with no problem. Passed all stress tests I gave it.
When I built it I designed the upper lift arms to be under the fenders out of the way . You can remove the upper and lower lift arms with 4 pins and then remove the top link bracket with 4 nuts. That way you can switch to a mower deck for mowing and not have arms sticking out the back. When its plow day just drop the mower and hook up the 3 point arms and top link bracket in minutes and be on your way.
My goals when I started:
1. Build something that looked like it was built by IH for Wide Frames and Quietlines.
2. Build something rugged, yet safe to operate.
3. Build something that would mount without modifying the Cub.
4. Build something that would not prevent the tractor from being used for other jobs.
The lower lift arm bracket mounts to the three lower bolts in the rear end but also have brackets forward to the axles for additional strength. I moved the draw pins forward in front of the bracket to prevent problems if you put chains on the tires.
The lift bar mounts to the rock shaft like a sleeve hitch does. The upper lift arms mount with a rod or Frankenstein bolts in the standard holes in the Cub frame. I have two mounting holes in the upper lift arm bracket where it attaches to the lift bar coming from the rock shaft. One hole gives maximum lift while the other gives less lift but provides a slower operation on lift and drop so you can do a better job leveling ground with a blade.
The top link bracket mounts to 4 studs in the upper part of the rear end.
I had thought about using the same adjustable lift arms like all Cat 0 3-point hitches use, the ones that you have to disconnect to adjust, but Ken Weaver kept after me to do it right so I built my own design. They have a lock nut which you loosen and you can adjust up or down without disconnecting the arm. Thanks Ken for making me do it right.
I built all lift arms, brackets, added chains for stability.
Unit is really stout, handles the Gannon with no problem. Passed all stress tests I gave it.
When I built it I designed the upper lift arms to be under the fenders out of the way . You can remove the upper and lower lift arms with 4 pins and then remove the top link bracket with 4 nuts. That way you can switch to a mower deck for mowing and not have arms sticking out the back. When its plow day just drop the mower and hook up the 3 point arms and top link bracket in minutes and be on your way.
L
lwiese
Guest
Last Saturday, I brought home a 1972 129 hydro with a 44 inch mower. Not having anything else to compare it to, I think it is good shape. The only things missing, at this point, is the frame cover and the air cleaner cover (which I found this afternoon).
I have already purchased all the required reading material, in the hopes of finding out what actuates the safety switch under the frame cover. Is this a neutral switch actuated by the brake pedal? The only drawing in the chassis manual showing the switch is one with the standard transmission. There is nothing even close by the switch which would give me clue. Maybe this is why the PO had a couple of wires on the solenid hanging out under the panel bypassing everything.
I plan on restoring this tractor, so any help would be appreciated. I rather not hot wire it to start it like the PO did.
Thanks,
Lyle
I have already purchased all the required reading material, in the hopes of finding out what actuates the safety switch under the frame cover. Is this a neutral switch actuated by the brake pedal? The only drawing in the chassis manual showing the switch is one with the standard transmission. There is nothing even close by the switch which would give me clue. Maybe this is why the PO had a couple of wires on the solenid hanging out under the panel bypassing everything.
I plan on restoring this tractor, so any help would be appreciated. I rather not hot wire it to start it like the PO did.
Thanks,
Lyle
rbedell
Well-known member
Lyle W:
Here is a Pic's of the Neutral Switch Actuator. This diagram is from the TC-157 Parts Manual, Section F, Page 30. It would be most beneficial that you have the proper and completely manuals for your CC 129. You should have GSS-1464 Service Manual and 1-084-322-R1 Operators Manual. You can obtain these manuals from the forum sponsors located here, your local CC Dealer, or the Web.
This Actuator Lever (Item #14) is located on the Brake Shaft and when the Brake is depressed, this lever engages (pushes against) the Neutral Safety Switch.
Here is a Pic's of the Neutral Switch Actuator. This diagram is from the TC-157 Parts Manual, Section F, Page 30. It would be most beneficial that you have the proper and completely manuals for your CC 129. You should have GSS-1464 Service Manual and 1-084-322-R1 Operators Manual. You can obtain these manuals from the forum sponsors located here, your local CC Dealer, or the Web.
This Actuator Lever (Item #14) is located on the Brake Shaft and when the Brake is depressed, this lever engages (pushes against) the Neutral Safety Switch.
Richard, excellent design!
I was in the middle of the first mowing of the season last night with my 107 when the left steering knuckle broke and the wheel fell right off. It snapped directly below where the tie rod connects.
The dealer wants $51.44 for a new one(!!) And they have 2 in stock, which tells me this must be a relatively common occurence.
Have any of you guys welded one of these with success? I hate to shell out that kind of money if a weld repair will be as good.
-- Ken
The dealer wants $51.44 for a new one(!!) And they have 2 in stock, which tells me this must be a relatively common occurence.
Have any of you guys welded one of these with success? I hate to shell out that kind of money if a weld repair will be as good.
-- Ken
rchristensen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2006
- Messages
- 933
- displayname
- Richard Christensen
Wyatt
Here is a side shot of the hitch.
Here is a side shot of the hitch.
Ken F., yeah that happens. A weld with a support brace will fix it right up. For a look at one such repair, though here it's shown as a prevention, click on the link below then scroll down the page to the "Reinforcing the Steering Spindles (only on the narrow frame Cub Cadets)" heading:
Brian Millers Pulling Page
I broke one on one of my 125s and at the time I didn't have any parts Cubs like I do now so I had "splints" welded on each side of the spindle rather than one "strut" as shown in the link above.
Brian Millers Pulling Page
I broke one on one of my 125s and at the time I didn't have any parts Cubs like I do now so I had "splints" welded on each side of the spindle rather than one "strut" as shown in the link above.
jhillegass
Well-known member
Gee, Richard. Very nice hitch setup. I think you met your goals. Looks nice in the black finish too. Do you have detailed plans to share with us???
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