Archive through April 24, 2014

[prtombaugh]

I had the good fortune to purchase two Gannon Earthcavators today. They are both in very good, complete condition with minor surface rust. The problem I’m looking for help with is this: Earthcavator #1 (pictured) is a Model FD-42 (42 inch width with 5 rippers for Cub Cadet sleeve hitch). Earthcavator #2 (no picture) is a 36 inch width with 4 rippers and a Category O hitch. The 36-inch would look more appropriate behind my 100 than the 42 inch one. Should I swap out the hitches, with a bit of cutting and welding, and not care about the serial number plates? The Earthcavator I end up keeping and restoring will be pretty much for show only.

 

[jbaker]

keep the 42" the way it is and throw a set of dullie's on the 100... that would be sweeeet

 

[mschutz]

Brian E, Glad to hear you finally got it. Tomorrow it will fire up and run like a champ. Good Luck!

 

[hydroharry]

Brian E - I'm sure glad you had the patience to wait and work with it. Sounds to me like you got it cleaned out pretty well. I'm hoping she runs like a top tomorrow.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Brian E. The only thing I now use for things with rust or something like your carburetor is STRONG ARM SPRAY. Once you've used it you'll quit using PB Blaster or WD40. It's around $9.00 a spray can however a little goes a long ways.

David S. Nice little cart.

Paul T. I agree with Jeff B.

 

[kide]

Brian E:
Very Good, Grasshopper.......... I suspect one of the corrosion factors we deal with today is the alcohol in the gas we get now - brings water with it eventually. Keeping fingers crossed for ya, but it sounds like you've got it whipped...

 

[kshultz]

David S.
Excellent find!

 

[sbauer]

Does anyone know of another filter I can cross reference for the trans on my 782 cub cadet. I am tired of paying $13 at the local dealer for a cub cadet filter.

 

[pbell]

Paul T
As rare and hard to find as the Gannon Earthcavators are, I would not modify anything on either one of them, provided both are as originally built.

 

[hydroharry]

Steve B - you can have a look at Charlie's FAQ #83 which lists several that have been researched as being truly comparable.

http://cubfaq.com/HydroFilterX.html

Not sure any will be less than the $13 you're paying locally.

 

[jgoodine]

Micheal M is there any more pics of steering brakes available, that is something that really interest me. Tks

Paul T congrats, those are neat, and not something you see every day, much less two. If you modify them they probably will not be worth as much to some collectors. But they are yours now so you can do whatever you want to them. I sure would love to have one, modified or not,

 

[bellwood]

Ohhh yes! She runs beautifully... Started right up, barely even needed choke...

I have a few questions (big surprise):

1) When the throttle is set all the way down to low, the engine conks out... Would adjusting the "low idle stop screw" help adjust this?

2) When I did turn her off (throttle was just above the bare minimum to keep running) I turned the key off and on the last cycle it back fired... Is this something I can address or should be worried about?

3) The mow deck seemed to work OK but it took almost 10-12 seconds or so for the blades to come full spin (throttle was about 100%) I did grease the three fittings on the deck and turned the blades half way through to distribute the grease evenly BEFORE running it... Is this normal (I cant remember its been so long) or is there some other maintenance that might be needed to improve this? I didnt see any but are there grease fittings for the pulleys on the front of the lift frame/hangar assembly? Or possibly the tension pulley on the deck? Any recommendations?

Thanks everyone, having a blast =)

 

[dfrisk]

BRIAN E. - Yes, the low idle speed screw on the top of the carb is where you can adjust (raise) the low idle speed.

Most common reason for a back fire when shutting off a CC is not letting it cool down long enough, but the engine would have to be fully up to operating temp. Try it again next time you run the tractor and see if it does it again.

No other grease zerks other than the mower spindles, nothing on the idler pulleys. Engaging the deck at full throttle should pull the engine down and the blades should come up to full speed in 3-5 seconds. Two things can effect this, slipping PTO clutch, or slipping mule drive belt. Rebuilding the PTO clutch or replacing the mule drive belt should fix.

 

[jgoodine]

Brian glad you got that 124 going, there is no grease fittings on the mule drive (pulleys in the front), mine does backfire once and a while, sure like to see some pics, hopefully someone else can answer the rest of your questions

 

[hydroharry]

Brian E - well glad to hear she started right up. You didn't tell us much about how she seemed to run tho, other than what sounds like the idle speed screw being set to low.

I am concerned with the 2 issues you mentioned, backfiring and blades slowly coming up to speed. This sounds more to me like an issue either with the carb adjustments, timing, or possibly the governor setting. I get the feeling the it's not really a mowing deck issue but more like the engine sorta "lugged up to full speed". BUT, before we get into these things it could also be something as minor as a loose belt. You need to check the tension according to the 124 Operator Manual, or the mowing deck instructions if they are separate.

Now, if the belts are ok the next thing I would check is the timing. I recall you did install new points so your timing needs to be adjusted to "exactly" the S or SP mark on the flywheel. I'm hopeful you have a timing light. (Not sure which manual spells out and shows the pics on doing this but it's in one of them)

Once the timing is set you need to check the carb adjustments. I'm pretty certain these are detailed in the 124 Operator Manual as well.

If the backfiring starts to occur all the time when shutting it off - and starts to scare you, the neighbors and the neighbors kids, and even the preacher lives round the corner, then to avoid it you can let the engine run at idle for a short time before turning it off. It could also be you have a ton of carbon build-up on the piston and head, and the carbon is absorbing the fuel and not igniting until after you shut the engine off. It also happens with old old mufflers that have alot of carbon as well. But you've a ways to go before you pull the head to de-carbon things. You could have a look at it in the Service manual. Kohler does recommend it every 500 hours of operation.

 

[sshaff]

Some pics of the front blade refurbished last summer which finally got mounted on my 123 today. Looking forward to displaying this setup at A. J.'s Garden Tractor Jamboree in Oregon IL on May 17. Information on this terrific event at
https://www.facebook.com/AJsGardenTractorJamboree

 

[rgreenly]

Steve, Great looking set up! What size blade is that?

 

[hydroharry]

Steve S - nice blade and very nice looking 123. I think I heard you might get snow this weekend so you'll have a chance to use it before the show.

 

[bellwood]

Thanks everyone...

In regards to how she runs, she starts right up now...

Back in the early 2K's when I used it every summer it ran about the same except starting it was ALWAYS an arduous process... Whether this was due to the carb or it having the wrong plug in it or even an old battery, your guess is as good as mine

Things I did in my "overhaul" in the past 2 weeks:

-re-gapped the original points, they were only .05 off (.30 vs .25)
-put in a new H10C plug
-flushed the tank
-cleaned the fuel bowl and installed a new screen and gasket
-soaked, pipe cleanered the fuel pipette
-yanked the carb, cleaned it inside and out, replaced the bowl gasket, the bigger float gasket, the needle, the needle seat, the needle gasket
-greased all the fittings I could see
-brand new battery

it doesnt always backfire... in this case i only had it running for about 5 minutes, just enough for a lap around the house and to get the PTO going

I am 100% sure the belts are in need of replacement and the idler pulley lubed and maybe tightened (its bouncing around a bit)

I bought a new starter belt with my parts order (free shipping!) but I've gotta drop the deck this weekend to really inspect it, get the covers off and inspect the underside

When the PTO engaged the first time it did take some time but subsequent engages seemed to be a bit better... The first one just stood out in my mind...

She goes up hills OK etc with no real discernible hesitation

If I need to replace the muffler, I will, that beast is LOUD... either that or I need to invest in better ear protection

Regarding timing, I DONT have a timing light but I'm sure I could borrow one (I'm in tractor country) and I do have the shop manual on the cub and kohler respectively so it shouldn't be hard to do

One thing to mention is that this thing did run leaded gas for a real long time and its only been the past 10+ years its be on unleaded... Not sure if it makes any difference but figured I'd mention it

Looks like the Kohler book says 250 hours when leaded fuel is used and more often when used in a dirty and dusty environment (which camp was)

AFAIK the head has never been removed, nor carbon removed

I *think* that covers all bases... Feel free to ask anything and I'll give ya answers...

I will definitely get some pictures up this weekend

Thanks to everyone for their input and encouragement, it's seriously the old reason my 124 is running now =)

 

[sshaff]

Ron -- My front blade is an IH 42" spring trip type donated to me by relatives who used it with their 102 to scrape manure from their livestock buildings at their farm outside Reinbeck IA back in the day. Two years ago they rediscovered it sitting in a shed and asked if I wanted it for free for my collection ... My answer: Uh Huh!!

Harry -- This one's only for show, not snow. Removed the snowthrower today to do this project. Given it's late April I thought it would be a safe decision, but who knows after the winter we've just seen.