Archive through April 17, 2012
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
After driving the 127 around for the past several weeks, I'm going to remove and sand blast the wheels, fender deck, seat, 40lb grill, front axle and the engine. I hope to have it back together by June 1 to take it to the tractor pull and BS in Port Orchard.
I went to the tractor swap meet in Elma, Wa, there was a nice all original paint 124 for $300 with a creeper gear and a rear lift. Some guy around 80 years old from Gig Harbor bought it.
I went to the tractor swap meet in Elma, Wa, there was a nice all original paint 124 for $300 with a creeper gear and a rear lift. Some guy around 80 years old from Gig Harbor bought it.
Don T.
I get mine from the gettin place.
Here's tomorrows projects, LOL
I get mine from the gettin place.
Here's tomorrows projects, LOL
So the old 1000 I drug home last nite paid for herself already!!
Got the 1250 set up to do some tilling and the clutch promptly decided to take a dump!
Lo and behold someone had stuck a new clutch in this 1000 parts tractor so I figure she don't owe me nuch any more!
Did the oil change and MMO thing on the old Gal w/some in the fuek also. Sure cleared the bugs out of the area!!
Got pic's but can't get the darn things downsized enough.
Dave Schwandt
Got the 1250 set up to do some tilling and the clutch promptly decided to take a dump!
Lo and behold someone had stuck a new clutch in this 1000 parts tractor so I figure she don't owe me nuch any more!
Did the oil change and MMO thing on the old Gal w/some in the fuek also. Sure cleared the bugs out of the area!!
Got pic's but can't get the darn things downsized enough.
Dave Schwandt
David S.
You know what they say!
A blind hog lucks on an acorn every now and then!
You know what they say!
A blind hog lucks on an acorn every now and then!
JC... havent done anything yet... I work 12hr nightshifts this week with 1hr drive each way, dont have time for much. Maybe this weekend. Oh and many of the parts were actually cheaper than OEM. But getting the whole package deal was more expensive since I didnt need to replace it all... just thought that getting the whole preassembled unit would avoid hassle and be an easy bolt-in, should have known better.
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By Jeremiah Chamberlin (Jchamberlin) on Wednesday, April 18, 2012 - 05:11 am:
Tristan--
How are you making out with that MWSC clutch? I went back and checked your link that Ken pointed out to me --that looks like one Heavy-Duty (and expensive) unit, I would be feeling disappointed and frustrated too.
After studying the clutch assembly in Parts Lookup, I can see why you asked about moving or modifying the Hanger Assembly (#9 below). Dennis' explanation of the basic issue makes sense; I'm just wondering what corrective action you decided to take: (1) work-around, (2) new shaft, or (3) reverting to OEM clutch?<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
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By Jeremiah Chamberlin (Jchamberlin) on Wednesday, April 18, 2012 - 05:11 am:
Tristan--
How are you making out with that MWSC clutch? I went back and checked your link that Ken pointed out to me --that looks like one Heavy-Duty (and expensive) unit, I would be feeling disappointed and frustrated too.
After studying the clutch assembly in Parts Lookup, I can see why you asked about moving or modifying the Hanger Assembly (#9 below). Dennis' explanation of the basic issue makes sense; I'm just wondering what corrective action you decided to take: (1) work-around, (2) new shaft, or (3) reverting to OEM clutch?<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
Dennis, when I returned the assembly to them because it was wrong length shaft I included the factory shaft so they could make it exact. Best I could tell when I got it back was it was identical to factory. And yes, there is a ball in there which I included. The shaft seems to be in the right position, up against the ball in the coupler end and on the flywheel end sits about perfect in the middle of the driver pins. I could shorten it a bit, but that is something that cant be undone and not sure if the small amount would make that big of a difference, but maybe. I'd have to re drill the coupler hole in the rear, and I dont know if the small difference would leave the holes overlapping and if that would cause some issues.
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By Dennis Frisk (Dfrisk) on Tuesday, April 17, 2012 - 09:31 am:
TRISTAN - I'm not familiar with the Q/L GD's, but I think there was a post here a few weeks ago that there are some differences between a Q/L GD & a normal NF & WF GD, the T/O lever is different, and there's a sleeve or cover over the teaser spring, but all the geometry should be about the same.
The center line of the crankshaft of the engine, the drive shaft, the input to the creeper should ALL be the same. The flex-mounted engine can move a bit, so some flexibility in the drive plate was designed into the Q/L's.
It almost sounds like your drive shaft might be just a bit too long, requiring your T/O lever to angle forward a bit. The whole relationship of the clutch to the engine, the T/O lever to the clutch, etc is fixed by the location of the clutch discs, pinned to the driveshaft. The stack-up of the teaser spring, T/O bearing, T/O lever has some effect on the lever angle, but the biggest thing is the total length of the driveshaft, if it's too long that throws everything FORWARD which sounds like what's happening. Isn't it the Q/L hydro's that use a ball bearing between the end of the driveshaft inserted into the drive coupling on the engine. Does the Q/L GD's use this ball too? I checked the parts look-up and it doesn't show one but spacing the whole driveshaft back about 1/4 inch would fix your situation. Let the T/O lever miss the drive pins.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
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By Dennis Frisk (Dfrisk) on Tuesday, April 17, 2012 - 09:31 am:
TRISTAN - I'm not familiar with the Q/L GD's, but I think there was a post here a few weeks ago that there are some differences between a Q/L GD & a normal NF & WF GD, the T/O lever is different, and there's a sleeve or cover over the teaser spring, but all the geometry should be about the same.
The center line of the crankshaft of the engine, the drive shaft, the input to the creeper should ALL be the same. The flex-mounted engine can move a bit, so some flexibility in the drive plate was designed into the Q/L's.
It almost sounds like your drive shaft might be just a bit too long, requiring your T/O lever to angle forward a bit. The whole relationship of the clutch to the engine, the T/O lever to the clutch, etc is fixed by the location of the clutch discs, pinned to the driveshaft. The stack-up of the teaser spring, T/O bearing, T/O lever has some effect on the lever angle, but the biggest thing is the total length of the driveshaft, if it's too long that throws everything FORWARD which sounds like what's happening. Isn't it the Q/L hydro's that use a ball bearing between the end of the driveshaft inserted into the drive coupling on the engine. Does the Q/L GD's use this ball too? I checked the parts look-up and it doesn't show one but spacing the whole driveshaft back about 1/4 inch would fix your situation. Let the T/O lever miss the drive pins.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
JEFF KLEIN - re manual PTO clutch in a 109. Putting a elec PTO on a 109 is possible but NOT easy, it has to mount right where your starter/generator basket pulley is, there are probably no mounting holes in your engine block for the elec PTO, so mounting the PTO is a problem, mounting your starter is a problem, I would NOT recommend replacing your manual PTO with an elec. clutch.
The manual PTO clutch is really very simple in design, and very durable as well. Get the complete rebuild kit from your local CC dealer if they stock it, or one of the sponsors who have hyper-links in the colorful boxes at the top of this page.
You probably want to read and understand the FAQ's, all of them about the manual PTO clutch, then remove the PTO and check all the parts, the pilot bearing mounted to your crankshaft, the basket portion of the S/G pulley, the teeth on the friction disc, the three levers on the face of the clutch, the condition of the center pin of the clutch, fiber thrust button, etc. Anything questionable, get new parts. The special bolts holding the clutch together are almost never a problem, you'll just need a really thin 7/16ths inch wrench to tighten the double locknuts when you assemble the clutch. Follow the assembly & adjustment instructions closely that come with the clutch kit and you should have no problem. Just make sure you get the right clutch kit and/or parts for your clutch.
TRISTAN - re Your 1000 engine clutch, Your concern about having to drill new holes in your new driveshaft are exactly what I'd be worried about too. To get a little more clearance between the three drive pins and the T/O lever you only need to move the driveshaft back just a bit, maybe 1/8th to 1/4 inch, the roll pin holes would overlap or be right next to each other.
Something sure doesn't sound right. The T/O lever shouldn't even be close to the drive pins.
The manual PTO clutch is really very simple in design, and very durable as well. Get the complete rebuild kit from your local CC dealer if they stock it, or one of the sponsors who have hyper-links in the colorful boxes at the top of this page.
You probably want to read and understand the FAQ's, all of them about the manual PTO clutch, then remove the PTO and check all the parts, the pilot bearing mounted to your crankshaft, the basket portion of the S/G pulley, the teeth on the friction disc, the three levers on the face of the clutch, the condition of the center pin of the clutch, fiber thrust button, etc. Anything questionable, get new parts. The special bolts holding the clutch together are almost never a problem, you'll just need a really thin 7/16ths inch wrench to tighten the double locknuts when you assemble the clutch. Follow the assembly & adjustment instructions closely that come with the clutch kit and you should have no problem. Just make sure you get the right clutch kit and/or parts for your clutch.
TRISTAN - re Your 1000 engine clutch, Your concern about having to drill new holes in your new driveshaft are exactly what I'd be worried about too. To get a little more clearance between the three drive pins and the T/O lever you only need to move the driveshaft back just a bit, maybe 1/8th to 1/4 inch, the roll pin holes would overlap or be right next to each other.
Something sure doesn't sound right. The T/O lever shouldn't even be close to the drive pins.
Dave Ross
I think I will try fleabay for the one gear that I see damaged,That gear was stored in a can that got water in it and that gear is in real bad shape. I know I need a breather also. But the rest of the small gears look to be in good shape. I see Charlie sells some parts and I will have to get the seal and the coupler for the drive shaft.The only cubs I have that I could use it on is my 100. I will someday buy a creeper for my 61 Original.I bet Charlie will get that sale.
I think I will try fleabay for the one gear that I see damaged,That gear was stored in a can that got water in it and that gear is in real bad shape. I know I need a breather also. But the rest of the small gears look to be in good shape. I see Charlie sells some parts and I will have to get the seal and the coupler for the drive shaft.The only cubs I have that I could use it on is my 100. I will someday buy a creeper for my 61 Original.I bet Charlie will get that sale.
trutherford
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- Troy Rutherford
Cub 100 with some new dual tires on it
Charlie was here!
Charlie was here!
I should get my 100 out of the Cub storage shed and drive it some.I do need to tighten up the left front spindle cap like most need .
Well I will pull the engine in my 125 again now. I do hope this will be the last time this year.
Well I will pull the engine in my 125 again now. I do hope this will be the last time this year.
stanner
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- Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
Jeff K,
I feel your pain in the PTO dept... Years ago I got an electric clutch for next to nothing, and the 149's mech clutch was fubar, and the shaft was balled up, so on it went... It is possible, but you need to remove the basket on the pulley and fab up a crankshaft extension... You'll also have to fab up the electric circuits to energize the clutch, with relays and interlocks. Mine was set up to use the mechanical PTO lever's switch.. The PTO floats on the shft, held steady by a length of chain to the frame to keep it from spinning..
The mechanical pto is a good unit, provided you have good parts and they're set up right...
A rebuild kit from the sponsor will get it going in no time..
I feel your pain in the PTO dept... Years ago I got an electric clutch for next to nothing, and the 149's mech clutch was fubar, and the shaft was balled up, so on it went... It is possible, but you need to remove the basket on the pulley and fab up a crankshaft extension... You'll also have to fab up the electric circuits to energize the clutch, with relays and interlocks. Mine was set up to use the mechanical PTO lever's switch.. The PTO floats on the shft, held steady by a length of chain to the frame to keep it from spinning..
The mechanical pto is a good unit, provided you have good parts and they're set up right...
A rebuild kit from the sponsor will get it going in no time..
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Troy R - I see you updated your profile with the same pic of the 100. I've got one word for it - NICE
Now, I do also have one question. I believe most people mount and dis-mount their tractors from the left side, and I noticed your seat cover is somewhat pointed to that side. Did you rig up some type of "swivel seat" to make mounting and dis-mounting easier when the duals are installed?
Now, I do also have one question. I believe most people mount and dis-mount their tractors from the left side, and I noticed your seat cover is somewhat pointed to that side. Did you rig up some type of "swivel seat" to make mounting and dis-mounting easier when the duals are installed?
hydroharry
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Don T - I didn't realize that since I've never had a pan seat. And I had been thinking about a short phrase to use for Jeff's unit, that used to be a slogan - Cub Cadet "One Tough Tractor". It just has that look. And by the way, I didn't miss your posts. I do hope its the last time in along time that you remove that 12K and fix the oil leak. I honestly wish you the best of luck this time. And I saw the pic of your 100. You need to build a shelf to put that unit on. It's to nice to drive around and the tires would just get dirty.
I finally found a moldboard plow locally to put behind my 1200. However it is not a brinly or an IH. According to the info I read in the FAQ's it seems not to be adjusted quite right. I've tried a few things but it jus doesn't seem to sit right. Would anybody be willing to post some pics of it for me? My smartphone isn't smart enough
Harry-
Don, like most of us likes to actually drive and use his tractors. They want and need to be driven. Do you at least go and sit on your 169 and talk to it? I bet it has a puddle of tears underneath like Dons 125 has oil.
You know, soap and water aren't that expensive.
Don, like most of us likes to actually drive and use his tractors. They want and need to be driven. Do you at least go and sit on your 169 and talk to it? I bet it has a puddle of tears underneath like Dons 125 has oil.
You know, soap and water aren't that expensive.
Wayne Shytle and Harry Bursell
Guys I had a great day here. the 149 was hauling the trailer with chicken poop in it for the wifes garden.The 129 loader was mover poop and some crushed rock . I also worked on the 125 some.Just one bolt left to remove so I can pull the K again.Washed up the shop floor also , now it is time for a cold one lol.
Guys I had a great day here. the 149 was hauling the trailer with chicken poop in it for the wifes garden.The 129 loader was mover poop and some crushed rock . I also worked on the 125 some.Just one bolt left to remove so I can pull the K again.Washed up the shop floor also , now it is time for a cold one lol.
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