Archive through April 17, 2012

[kmcconaughey]

Ed, WELCOME!

The "L" is for load which means any load on the electrical system which includes the lights.

 

[kmcconaughey]

 

[mmasheris]

Tried the chrome powder coat on a 123 grill looks pretty good doesn't show how shinny in the picture.

 

[ecardinal]

Well I got 'er runnin'! That wiring info was what I needed thanks! She runs pretty good but the points arc off to the side. Also coughs a puff of smoke once in a while. Maybe a breather issue? The brake pads are toast. Read something about using Chevy S -10 pads or buying pad lining and glueing it on....Ed.

 

[dtanner]

Ed Cardinal

(She runs pretty good but the points arc off to the side.)

that is a tell that your condenser is not doing it`s job.I would replace it and see if the arcing issue goes away.

 

[pfitzwater]

Alrighty!Got those pins out... Thanks Charlie for correcting my ways with the pictures

I would like to take it all down and repaint/repair/replace what needs to be done on the tractor. I really need the motor rebuilt, it uses alot of oil and the muffler seems to not do its job. I know it would be better to do it all one time but money is an issue, and this is my main tractor. pushing a mower on little over 3/4 of an acre doesn't seem bad till you do it for awhile. So for now I will just fix what needs to be fixed as I go. My next project is the stearing while its apart.

Speaking of, here is a pic of that bearing. The shaft shows wear from the spring (run your hand down it and you can feel light ribbs) but I think its ok, thoughts? The bearing lost a few of its teeth and I am not sure if that metal ring is part of the bearing or is that part of the spring spacer?
Other questions:
Would it be safe to sand blast the shaft and repaint it?
What should be done if I want to sand blast the gas tank now that its all apart? I'm worried about static electricity and what gas may still be in the tank. What is the safest way to wash the tank out?
Here is the side of the bearing

Top of the bearing?

this is the area where the spring is and you can feel the presence of the spring on the shaft, but seems still straight

top of the bearing

 

[jchamberlin]

Patrick--
There is a FAQ about how to clean a metal gas tank with muriatic acid --worked for me! There are baffles inside the tank that are hard to get to via purely mechanical means.

Tristan--
How are you making out with that MWSC clutch? I went back and checked your link that Ken pointed out to me --that looks like one Heavy-Duty (and expensive) unit, I would be feeling disappointed and frustrated too.

After studying the clutch assembly in Parts Lookup, I can see why you asked about moving or modifying the Hanger Assembly (#9 below). Dennis' explanation of the basic issue makes sense; I'm just wondering what corrective action you decided to take: (1) work-around, (2) new shaft, or (3) reverting to OEM clutch?

 

[hydroharry]

Patrick - I see Jeremiah responded about cleaning the inside of your gas tank but it sounds as tho you also wanted to do the outside. If you clean the inside according to the FAQ using muriatic acid then I don't think you have to worry about gas fumes when cleaning the outside. If you're not doing the inside of the tank, and only want to clean up and paint the outside then I get very scared using a sandblaster since there will still be gas fumes and the blasting does heat the metal, and cam even make it brittle. I don't know what would happen and would NOT recommend sandblasting the tank. I met an old timer one time that brazed leaky tanks and he filled them with water. Even that bothered me since there had to still be fumes - so I never really understood how it would work. I've always been extremely cautious when wire wheeling the outside of my tanks. I would clean out the inside as much as possible with some type of soap and water, or other non-flammable liquid, and then proceed to the wire wheel method. Even a wire wheel will get the tank hot so I'd proceed at a slow pace and allow cooling. I'd also be ready to use a good cleaning solvent (kept a long distance from your work area) and some primer spray paint since the tank will immediately begin to show some surface rust (at least mine did).
Now, on your clutch assembly, I'm not one much for clutches (as my name may imply) but based on the few I have done your drive shaft certainly would seem to be reusable to me. I wouldn't bother sandblasting, I'd use a wire wheel again, or even just sand paper to clean off the paint and rust. I'm not sure about repainting it before it's all reassembled. I'd probably wait until you have the assembly together and then paint the entire assembly. You'll have some grease and oil on it so some parts won't paint well, but since it's mostly hidden and this is a worker I wouldn't be concerned. As far as the question on that ring, I can only assume it's part of the bearing. I don't think there would be anything like that for the spring spacer, but hopefully some Gear Heads will chime in here.
Good luck with your project.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and hydros require less maintenance)

 

[pfitzwater]

Thanks guys, Yes I was meaning just painting the outside. It had just been running two weeks ago so it dosent have old gas or anything like that. I just want to make things a little brighter and new. I wasn't even thinking about solvent. I might just use that.

after re-reading my post and looking at my pictures I just want to make sure I was clear that the "ring" I was talking about is the stem of the "mushroom"

looks like a mushroom in the first picture... what is in the center of the bearing? The washer like ring I have little dought it is not part of the bearing.

Thanks for everyones insite as always.

 

[cwenger]

hi, can someone please tell me the type of hydraulic oil and motor oil that is used for a cub 1450. also how to change hydraulic oil. thank you for the help

 

[memorgan]

Chris, click on the F A Qs at the top of the page, you;ll find all your info there,

 

[stanner]

Chris,
Also look on the manual page off of the main topic page, as the manual for the 1460 is there, with all of the fluid requirements. Your 1450 needs straight 30wt low-ash oil for the engine, and Genuine IH Hy-Tran and a Cub Cadet filter for the hydro...

 

[hydroharry]

Chris W - just to supplement the info from Scott and Mick - you'll find alot of info in the FAQs and Charlie's FAQs (which are linked to the FAQ page). What the FAQs don't tell you is why, and in addition I believe some of the FAQ info is confusing. So here's some additional info.

You should use Case/IH HyTran Ultra fluid in the rearend of your 1450. I believe the capacity is 7 qts (yes 14 pints or nearly 2 gals). This is top quality fluid and meets the all important IH Spec B-6, which has something to do with the fluid retaining moisture in up to 50% of its volume (there is alot of moisture build up in these rearends). There are some aftermarket or alternative fluids out there that "claim" to meet this Spec B-6. They may be ok. I used to be able to find Valvoline Hydraulic Tractor Fluid and it listed compliance with Spec B-6, but after I found the Case/IH HyTran Ultra was available I switched back. I recommend finding a Case/IH dealer (or one of the sponsors on here) and use the original recommended fluid.

Charlie's FAQ No. 83 provides a list of part numbers for the correct current CCC filter, and some cross-references to other filters. I've never used the others so I can't speak to them. For a few extra bucks I prefer the Original filter, and you can get them from a sponsor as well.

With regard to engine oil - if you can find the Kohler Low Ash 30W oil that's certainly the best and recommended by Kohler. I don't think you'll find IH Low Ash 30W but I've seen some collectible barrels. If you order the hydro fluid and filter from a sponsor then get the Low Ash oil as well.

Just wanted to provide a few extra cents of info to assist.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (Hydros really rule)

 

[cwenger]

thank you everyone for response on hydraulic oil. i forgot to ask as well does anyone know how many quarts of motor oil for the 1450. thank you all again, Chris

 

[jsklein]

Hello everyone - newbie here. I have a Cub Cadet 109 that needs a PTO clutch - or the one I have re-worked. From what I gather, I am not alone in my predicament. I hope I am not committing sacrilege here by asking the question I am about to ask - but can my tractor be converted to an electric clutch? I know, I know - why butcher up a Classic? It's just that I have heard horror stories about the manual clutches - rebuilding them, and even about getting them off and back on correctly. If anyone can give me any help it would be greatly appreciated. Thank You, Jeff

 

[hydroharry]

Chris W - the crankcase capacity is 3 pints (1 and 1/2 qts) for a K321AQS Kohler, which is the engine you should have in your Cub Cadet 1450.

Jeff K - you came to the right place and lurkers with questions are always welcome. The short answer is "no your 109 could not be converted to an electric PTO clutch" (without a lot of butchering, engineering, scientific measurements, re-wiring, etc). You may have seen/heard/read some horror stories about rebuilding a manual PTO clutch, but that is not typical. If you did a survey of members I suspect most would tell you that it's not really that hard to rebuild a manual one, and each time you do it, it becomes easier - SO JUMP ON IN. Before you begin removal tell us your symptoms and post some pics so we can help advise you. Most likely you don't need all the components - and best case you may only need a new fiber button (if you have a early production unit without the blade brake clutch) and not even have to rebuild the clutch.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (but continuous use does result in wear requiring service maintenance)

 

[jbaker]

Jeff K
Harry is right about the electric pto install and the manual one is very easy to rebuild if you get the kit with tool from the sponsers above. and if you do need a new pto button, get a brass one from our sponser as-well.

Take a picture or two of the problem area and post it here.....

we like answering questions with pictures..

 

[hydroharry]

Jeff - noticed your new signature line, how come you're still missing the 169?

 

[jbaker]

Harry I had to buy a manure spreader so when I mentioned a 169

I can't blame her, money is tight so I am planing a small man sale to fund a purchase of the true KING of all hydro GT's....wait I meant all GT's

 

[digger]

So this guy calls and says if you have what I want, I'll buy'um right now, only if you have them all.
Not a problem man!