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Archive through April 13, 2009
- Thread starter lpalma
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
glippert
Well-known member
Tim S - Here are a couple pics of the hood hinge attaching point on my 1250. Hope they help.
Don, Frank - Could be a lean carb setting on the main fuel needle, maybe a blocked/dirty main fuel nozzle in the carb or a loose bushing on the throttle shaft letting the idle air mixture lean out on light loads also.
FRANK - Ignition timing, lean fuel mixture and reduced cooling air flow from debris in the cooling shrouds all can make a Kohler engine get warm really quick and over-heat. If Your engine gets too hot to touch in a minute of idleing I'd say You have several of these problems. And if You have a lot of accumulated dirt & grease on Your engine, especially on the carb & exh. side of the engine where the crankcase breather is I'd spray the whole side of the engine down with GUNK engine degreaser and let it sit for a few minutes then hose it down with a garden hose. A pressure washer has WAY too much pressure and could damage seals & gaskets. Wrap Your ignition coil, condensor and points cover with plastic before spraying. A clean engine runs cooler and is much easier to work on.
FRANK - Ignition timing, lean fuel mixture and reduced cooling air flow from debris in the cooling shrouds all can make a Kohler engine get warm really quick and over-heat. If Your engine gets too hot to touch in a minute of idleing I'd say You have several of these problems. And if You have a lot of accumulated dirt & grease on Your engine, especially on the carb & exh. side of the engine where the crankcase breather is I'd spray the whole side of the engine down with GUNK engine degreaser and let it sit for a few minutes then hose it down with a garden hose. A pressure washer has WAY too much pressure and could damage seals & gaskets. Wrap Your ignition coil, condensor and points cover with plastic before spraying. A clean engine runs cooler and is much easier to work on.
Frank, the advice from Donald and Terry is good, but overheating can also be caused by a lean condition in the fuel system. Start it up and spray around the carb base plate (gasket) and the throttle shaft with WD-40, carb cleaner or something similar. See if this changes the tone of the engine or if it speeds up. Make sure the carb is adjusted rich enough. Improper timing will also cause an engine to over heat.
glippert
Well-known member
Rob N - I don't know if these connections are correct or not, but this 1250 (K301) ran before I tore it apart to refurb it.
Greg, the those couple pics of your 1250 look great! I'm sure the engine and carb area looks much nicer now, looking forward to the pictures of it when your done!
Does anybody have any pictures or can tell me where to find the belt configuration for my mower deck & tiller on my 109 hydro I just Bought it and it has the plow blade on it now and I dont have a glue on how the belts go on the tractor,mower deck or tiller any help anyone out there can give would be great. And again a big THANKS to Marlin for the info on finding my serial #s I am going home as soon as I am done and hopefuly I can find them.
mstetar
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jun 26, 2008
- Messages
- 510
- displayname
- Matt (Diesel Creek)
well good news i should be trading someone from the other site my 1100 for an original that looks to be in good shape, the one thing i was really looking froward to tho was the decal on the hood i like the look of them but it has 70/100 decals on it! is it bad that i think originals look better as un-restored rusty work horses rather than showroom show pieces?
Greg L thanks for the pics, thats sorta what thought it would look like. There arent many CCs in my neck of the woods so I dont have much access to a complete tractor to see how it was origionally, and didnt remember how mine looked way back when. this site and you guys are so helpful. Maybe if everyone had a CC the world would be alot BETTER off. THANKS, Tim
dwilkinson
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 9, 2008
- Messages
- 46
- displayname
- Doug Wilkinson
I have a 48" deck that I am refurbishing. The blades have a friction washer between them and the spacer on the spindle. It is listed as part IH 473860-R1. Mine are very deteriorated and look like they might have been leather. Does anyone know what they are made of, and what can be used or if they are even needed at all? Thanks.
Yesterday I told you about the bad luck I had with my loader cub.
Well heres a couple of photos to show just what happened.
I removed the loader from the cub so this does not happen again. Here are some of the loader parts awaiteing to be put out back.
Well heres a couple of photos to show just what happened.
I removed the loader from the cub so this does not happen again. Here are some of the loader parts awaiteing to be put out back.
Doug W,
The fiber washers increase friction between the blade and spindle to keep the blade from slipping on the spindle and causing excessive wear. Any of the sponsors above or your nearest Cub Cadet dealer can get you a set of those.
The fiber washers increase friction between the blade and spindle to keep the blade from slipping on the spindle and causing excessive wear. Any of the sponsors above or your nearest Cub Cadet dealer can get you a set of those.
prightmyer
Active member
- Joined
- Nov 8, 2005
- Messages
- 38
- displayname
- Peter A. Rightmyer
Lonny:
OUCH!!!!!
OUCH!!!!!
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,826
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Steering box & loader:
Seems to me one of my loader manuals (Johnson or Kwik-Way) suggests wrapping several SS radiator clamps around the steering gear for additional strength.
I'll see if I can find it.
BTW, I would just get a new gear and leave that loader on...how could you live without a loader after having one (and knowing it's right out back)??????? Not me...I'd replace a steering gear every year to stay "in" a loader tractor!!!!!
Seems to me one of my loader manuals (Johnson or Kwik-Way) suggests wrapping several SS radiator clamps around the steering gear for additional strength.
I'll see if I can find it.
BTW, I would just get a new gear and leave that loader on...how could you live without a loader after having one (and knowing it's right out back)??????? Not me...I'd replace a steering gear every year to stay "in" a loader tractor!!!!!
question about my 100 runs very rough sounds like a back fire but not sure engine might be running at too high of an idle but it will not run unless at high idle or choke in what might be the problem also soaked the carb in gas for over a week and cleaned it with carb cleaner any help will be nice thanks
thanks for all the helpful advice, everyone.
just to clarify, it gets too hot to touch in one minute when at full throttle, in neutral, mower not engaged.
in trying to figure out where to start on the "stall under load" problem, i removed the air cleaner and filter and ran it, stalled about one minute after mower engaged.
i believe i ruled out air intake problem.
next, i sprayed carb cleaner into the carb throat when it started to stall, still stalled. carb cleaner had no effect.
i believe i ruled out fuel delivery problem.
now, before i get into carb adjustments,timing, points etc. i am thinking a degreasing is my next step, to see if that cools it off.
since i do not see the crankcase breather you are talking about, i will guess it is buried and plugged.
the engine is greasy.
im just trying to figure out where to start.
i think degreasing/ cleaning the cooling fins will be first.
just to clarify, it gets too hot to touch in one minute when at full throttle, in neutral, mower not engaged.
in trying to figure out where to start on the "stall under load" problem, i removed the air cleaner and filter and ran it, stalled about one minute after mower engaged.
i believe i ruled out air intake problem.
next, i sprayed carb cleaner into the carb throat when it started to stall, still stalled. carb cleaner had no effect.
i believe i ruled out fuel delivery problem.
now, before i get into carb adjustments,timing, points etc. i am thinking a degreasing is my next step, to see if that cools it off.
since i do not see the crankcase breather you are talking about, i will guess it is buried and plugged.
the engine is greasy.
im just trying to figure out where to start.
i think degreasing/ cleaning the cooling fins will be first.
