lpalma
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here is my 125
Archive through April 13, 2009
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lpalma
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here is my 100
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- Home of the Plow Special
Rob D.
Sometimes when those Zerks get gummed up with old grease, I've had luck GENTLY heating the fitting with a torch to get things moving again.
You're not trying to get anything cherry-red with this method, just kind of melt that old grease.
Worth a try on an older tractor anyway..
Sometimes when those Zerks get gummed up with old grease, I've had luck GENTLY heating the fitting with a torch to get things moving again.
You're not trying to get anything cherry-red with this method, just kind of melt that old grease.
Worth a try on an older tractor anyway..
Rob D- I've had good luck with a grease zerk buster type of tool not sure what they call it that can be found at NAPA for a few bucks. You fill it with grease and place it over the zerk and hit it with the good old BFH.
Hello everyone, Im new to the CC world and this site, however I have a 1250 thats been in my family since new, but became mine a couple years ago. My hood hinges are missing along with the bottom of aluminum piece of hood where the hood hinge attaches. Could someone please show pics of these areas so I can see how to fab one, also direct me as to the possibilitys of rear pto options as I am dumb to what thel look like and how they attach. I enjoy modifications and adding toys to my cub. any help would be appriciated greatly, so I came to the best for answers. Thanks, love this site and love my CUB.}
thanks "Dennis Frisk (Dfrisk) ".
i could not find the "classic" link, but a search for "classic" brought to the right page.
now, not only do i have an owners and a service manual, i even know what year it was built and what the "A" on the end of the model number means.
hopefully tomorrow i can fix the stall under load problem.
i could not find the "classic" link, but a search for "classic" brought to the right page.
now, not only do i have an owners and a service manual, i even know what year it was built and what the "A" on the end of the model number means.
hopefully tomorrow i can fix the stall under load problem.
fcurrier
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- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
Tim:
I think you'll find that a rear PTO isn't an option on a 1250, being that it's a hydrostatic drive. However, there's a rear-mounted right angle gearbox available for running a tiller. Used hood extensions are quite readily available. The PARTS LOOKUP button above is a great resource, here, and shows that the hood extension for the 1250 is the same parts # as the 1x8, 1x9 series. (108-128, 109-169). Just my .02, and I'm sure you'll get more answers when the rest of this crowd wakes up!
I think you'll find that a rear PTO isn't an option on a 1250, being that it's a hydrostatic drive. However, there's a rear-mounted right angle gearbox available for running a tiller. Used hood extensions are quite readily available. The PARTS LOOKUP button above is a great resource, here, and shows that the hood extension for the 1250 is the same parts # as the 1x8, 1x9 series. (108-128, 109-169). Just my .02, and I'm sure you'll get more answers when the rest of this crowd wakes up!
Morning Frank, your up early
. The better half and daughter are off to the city for a shopping trip. so i guess i`ll work at some cub stuff today.I have so much to do. install brake pads on the 129 and Paint a few pieces also.Have a great day .later Don T
Could a 1250/1450/1650 quietline owner post a picture of the correct routing of the throttle and choke cables where they attach to the engine? Also does anyone have a recommendation on the correct governor spring placement (which holes to use) Seems like all the quietlines I get my hands on have been cobbled together by previous owners.
Could a 1250/1450/1650 quietline owner post a picture of the correct routing of the throttle and choke cables where they attach to the engine? Also does anyone have a recommendation on the correct governor spring placement (which holes to use) Seems like all the quietlines I get my hands on have been cobbled together by previous owners.
Frank, thanks for the info. I dont really NEED a pto, just love adding things to be a little different(keep my wife guessin what next). The hood has been set on and off for years for run and park time though and thought Id fab a fix to have something to do. May have to order extension though. Does the angle drive run off front pto belt?
mhomrighausen
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- Marlin Homrighausen
Willis H. Not owning a 109 personally I can only base my thoughts on the other Cub Cadets that I've owned or driven. Sssoooo.... YES a 109 is a great Cub Cadet to own and invest your hard earned $$$$ in. Now if I would have learned a long time ago that collecting Cub Cadets was cheaper than collecting women...
Tim S,
Yes, the rear mounted right angle gearbox is driven by the front PTO clutch and a long belt. You will need a mule drive as well, possibly can use the one with your mower depending upon which mower deck you have. The neat thing about the right angle gearbox is you use it for running a rear mounted tiller in its regular position or you can rotate it 90-degrees to use it as a rear PTO. To use it as a PTO you will need to remove the output pulley and find a splined PTO sleeve that mounts over the output shaft.
As for your hood hinge and the aluminum front nose piece for the hood, it would be easiest to find a used replacment. You can contact some of the forum sponsors using the colorful business cards at the top of the page or put an ad in the classifieds here on the forum and I'm sure someone will have a used one laying around they will sell you at reasonable price.
Yes, the rear mounted right angle gearbox is driven by the front PTO clutch and a long belt. You will need a mule drive as well, possibly can use the one with your mower depending upon which mower deck you have. The neat thing about the right angle gearbox is you use it for running a rear mounted tiller in its regular position or you can rotate it 90-degrees to use it as a rear PTO. To use it as a PTO you will need to remove the output pulley and find a splined PTO sleeve that mounts over the output shaft.
As for your hood hinge and the aluminum front nose piece for the hood, it would be easiest to find a used replacment. You can contact some of the forum sponsors using the colorful business cards at the top of the page or put an ad in the classifieds here on the forum and I'm sure someone will have a used one laying around they will sell you at reasonable price.
Help,, lol i had my 149 out and drag the back bade around for a time friday and the t cable kept pulling out from under the screw that holds it in place.thought i would rob from another Cub but the 1 on the 125 has the hole longated as well. So how do i repair this??? Thanks to all for your thoughts. Later Don T
Thanks Ron for the info! Do you know the rpm range of the output shaft when set up that way? Sounds like a fun project with lots more options for toys. I use my CUB more to travel around the farm on to fix fence and such, but love to tinker around and build things for it mostly for the satisfaction of accomplishment. Wife says I LOVE MY TRACTOR MORE THAN HER???????
DON - Your 129's fenders look GREAT. I'm sure We all want to see MORE PICTURES!
Sounds like Your throttle cable is slipping out of the little pivot fitting on the throttle arm that the governor spring attaches to. I always replace the OEM screw with a longer machine screw with a bigger head so I can tighten it with a larger screwdriver. I also make sure there's plenty of throttle cable wire sticking thru that fitting so I can bend it over right where the short end comes thru the fitting.
If the pivot hole on the whole arm is worn oblong that's tougher. If I remember right that arm pivots on a small steel sleeve, maybe You can make a larger sleeve and drill out the oblong home in the arm to fit the larger sleeve.
Sounds like Your throttle cable is slipping out of the little pivot fitting on the throttle arm that the governor spring attaches to. I always replace the OEM screw with a longer machine screw with a bigger head so I can tighten it with a larger screwdriver. I also make sure there's plenty of throttle cable wire sticking thru that fitting so I can bend it over right where the short end comes thru the fitting.
If the pivot hole on the whole arm is worn oblong that's tougher. If I remember right that arm pivots on a small steel sleeve, maybe You can make a larger sleeve and drill out the oblong home in the arm to fit the larger sleeve.
Dennis Frisk (Dfrisk) your right on what the problem is. i put a screw in from the back for now and hope it holds till i can find a few replacements. i`am trying to repair a 1862 right now for a friend that needs it to mow grass on his 4 acres. drive shaft in the front has some play and i don`t know if that is normal or not. the 129 will get some paint today(front spindles and breather)The hood and all other white parts are ready for a splash of white.Wife is on vacation so i`am kept out of the cub shed lol. later Don T
on a 128, 12 hp kohler K301A, how fast should the engine get too hot to touch?
mine goes from cold to too hot to touch in one minute. im wondering if that is too fast and it is overheating?
it is stalling under a load, do you think degreaseing the engine first is a good idea, before addressing the stalling problem?
or do they all heat up this fast?
mine goes from cold to too hot to touch in one minute. im wondering if that is too fast and it is overheating?
it is stalling under a load, do you think degreaseing the engine first is a good idea, before addressing the stalling problem?
or do they all heat up this fast?
