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Archive through April 10, 2011

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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dtanner

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Donald Tanner
Mike Patterson

(flywheel over - teeth seemed to seat correctly? Just don't want to strip the corner of the teeth off too much?

I think the adjustment on the slot will set how tight the starter gear fits in the flywheel . I don`t think you have to worry about it tearing off a tooth when you start the tractor. I do think its important to have the dept set correctly. The used flywheel should have wear marks to tell you how deep to set the starter gear. to tight will hurt the starter and to loose will cause damage to the flywheel teeth .

I did haul a few loads of ground with the loader today and now see I will have to give Charlie an order . the tractor will speed up on its own, I think there is a friction part on the hydro shaft that needs replacing .I have to hold the hydro lever to keep it from going to fast.It scared me today when it just took off . I did get a drive on the 147 and my 62 Original today also. Later Don T
 
Hey guys. I have a problem with my 1650. When I got the tractor the key switch wouldnt turn over the starter. So I bought a new switch, made sure it was wired right, and it worked. Now after turning it over a few times, its back to the same story as when I bought it. Key switch will not turn the engine over. Could I have burned up my switch or could it be the solenoid? Ground issue? It has me stumped...
 
Dawid,

Super job!! What happened to the original gas tank?

Ryan,

Are you sure the battery is good, and has a good charge on it? Just for thought.
 
Ryan McShane

Clean all your ground wires and see if you still have a problem. My .02
 
Thanks for the help guys. Ive changed the battery several times, and have had the charger on it while trying to crank it, and still no response. Ive cleaned the battery ground, but is there another ground that Ive missed?

I did get it running today (arched solenoid) and drove it for the first time since i bought it. WOW do those 1650's shake! Another thing...are there new wiring harnesses available for Quietlines?
 
Josh-What did your 1450 used to do? Did you unhook the switch, or just flip the toggle several times? I put a new toggle switch in it after I bought it because I thought that might be an issue to the lack of turning over. It must have got robbed by the PO...
 
I know this question has been asked and answered probably a hundred times, but a search didn't answer my specific question, so here goes...

I have a KT17 series I that I would like to convert to a series II. What parts do I need, I'm not concerned about the oil filter plate on the block, I just want full pressure lubrication like the M18?

Thanks
 
Norm-

You can't convert a series I to a series II. Pretty much everything is different, including the case, crank, rods, cam, etc.
 
Pulled the motor out of my 1450 today for a rebuild. I noticed the insulation in the field coil of the electric PTO has started to disintegrate. Does anyone know if this can be repaired and if so how. I was tempted to mix up some epoxy and pour it in on top of what's left of the original insulation but thought I better ask the experts first. Thanks
 
"Mike "F",
COOL pix, or should I say "Hot" pix." Thanks Tom, in a couple weeks I'll have the mower deck back on and then I'll take some new pics after mowing. I'm curious now what the temps may be...
 
Dawid, great job on your 102!
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Dawid,

Beautiful 102!!

Are you more in the city of Johannesburg or the country/outskirts?

Is the 102 a worker? On how much land?

THIS FORUM IS AWESOME!! Thanks Charlie & the other moderators!
 
TG Wilie,

Yes, I recall seeing something posted on here before about repairing a electric clutch field by repotting the end with some type of epoxy so it can be done. I thought it might be in the FAQ but I didn't see it during my quick scan. A search of the archieves should turn up some info on it.
 
I need help from a well experienced (not daring to call them old!!!) Machinist. Check out my new thread in The Machine Shop topic.

It would be appreciated! Ask your well experienced friends to give you the answer then post it for me.

It's regarding a Delta Milwaukee DrillPress model 220 Delta~Grip Chuck. I use it to fix my 169s (staying on topic).
 
Ryan, You turn the key and nothing happens? No solinoid "click"? Put a VOM Meter on the ignition wire to the solinoid and turn the key to see if you are getting power. If you are then the solinoid's bad (very common problem). You can also test the solinoid by jumping the BIG terminals with a screwdriver to see if it will work.

If all is good there, then it's more likely to be a bad starter. Try tapping it with the handle of a hammer. sometimes that jars the brushes into contact. Another test is to take a jumper cable from the battery to the starter to see if it will spin over. These are the two most typical starter problems. Good luck. Bob in RI
 
Robert K- Thanks for the advice! I know the starter is good because yesterday I did get it out for the first time and play with it (I got a bit antsy), so I just left my key on and arched the solenoid to fire it up. So in that case it must be a ground issue or I burned up the key, if the solenoid turned the starter over and the starter turned the engine over...
1a_scratchhead.gif
Does the key switch need to be grounded for it to work? Im running out of ideas.
 
Also, does anyone make new wiring harnesses for the Quietlines? My 1650 has goteen scorched a bit...some of the wiring has melted.
 

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