Archive through April 09, 2007

[eford]

Do you have a good friend close by with an area to work on it? I'm shopless and have a couple friends who would(have) let me use their garages for this purpose.
Next) Ask anyone relatively close to you that you trust there opinion about finding a shop, I know of certain car mechanics by me that would tackle this project. The shop is going to be easier, but more costly.
Find a used engine by you that could take up the slack till you figure it out, be careful of the engine tho, don't want another 'time bomb'

 

[rwilke]

Dave Holtmart,
I want to thank you for sharing your steering wheel removal technique listed at #13 in the FAQ section.

Although I'd been messing with trying to remove a darn 125 steering wheel over the last few days, with your technique it only took about 5 minutes! It worked great for me! Thanks Dude!
Ryan W

 

[rwilke]

Dave S.,

I would vote for #1.

You'll likely be busy enough preparing for your upcoming new house needs instead of messing around with trying to rebuild or have rebuilt an engine as #2 and #3 suggest. Sure you can always pay someone else to do the engine, but what fun is in that? If you don't want to learn about wrenchin' on it, then simply sell the 126 as is and go buy some other good running machine & don't look back. But because you're here on this forum, I'd bet you really DO want to wrench on that ol' gear-jammin' 126!

In the meantime, if you have to pay someone to mow along your river bank periodically, so be it. Or you could buy some other running machine just to do the job until you have the 126 back on it's feet again then sell the "fill-in mower".

Just my humble opinion, Ryan W

 

[sblunier]

Denny,

Hour meters:

Good point on the mechanical meters. I was addressing the "wire up" comment from the original poist and assuming we were only concerned with electrical hour meters where 1 hour = 1 hour.

 

[aschumacher]

Roland and Myron, thanks for your thoughts. Makes it easier to order parts. Think I should tell Charlie that parts site is wrong and he should call them up... ha ha

 

[sblunier]

Good night in the garage!!!!

Briggs is complete and wearing a new coat of paint!!! Tomorrow it goes into the frame, just in time for plow day!!!

I have to say, aside from the dumb carb and fuel pump, these Briggs twins are not bad little engines. I was impressed with the quality, given it's a middle of the road grade engine.

 

[tgallagher]

lonny,

I have (2) 2"x6"x12' rough oak planks that I use. These cubs are so heavy that I stand some cement blocks on end under the planks so they don't BOW to much

 

[lbuttke]

Tim,
I hear you on the cement blocks,
I had to reinforce my metal ramps with angle iron on the sides to stiffen them up, I am thinking of adding a middle folding leg on each one to help support the load.

 

[glippert]

I have a different hour meter question: The meter on my 782 works fine, but the glass (plastic?) lens is so cloudy I can barely see the face of the meter. Is this a sealed unit, or can the lens be removed and cleaned, or replaced? I'm not inclined to try it unless I'm confident I can make it better. (1st rule of medicine: do no harm!)

I assume this is a sealed unit, not intended to be taken apart, but then, I know what happens when I 'assume'.

 

[bmcmeen]

Greg L. -

3M Plastic Polish.

 

[dfrisk]

STEVE B. - I knew You knew about the mech. tach/hour meters....I think Your Dad still has a 656 He plants with correct? The tach drive cable on My Super H is for a 686 w/Nuess D310. The old Stewart-Warner hour meter is attached to the 72 again...A single wire lead to the coil and a ground. I couldn't have picked a worse place to mount & wire the thing if I tried, but it's "out of the way". I never had much luck with the "Tiny Tach" I had but that was before Bryan and the company's owner did some R&D so I'm sure they're much better now.

NICE looking job on the rebuild on that Briggs. There's been a LOT of ground plowed with B&S engines @ prior PD's.

CHARLIE - I've never plowed in "SNOW" before... I've plowed under a couple inches of frost before and plowed while We had a snow flurry or two but never plowed under 2-3 inches of snow...
You better have Your canvas cab installed!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Steve B., hmmmm, there's something about that Briggs & Stratton that I like.

 

[glouderback]

Greg (AKA Lips)'Greg -I take the attitude that anything made & put together was meant to be taken apart. I have taken apart the hour meter with the hands and reset the hands to 0 resealed with clear silicone sealer.Too soon to see if moisture will be a problem but on taken it apart I did not see where it was sealed all that great any way.
G.L.

 

[bcorn]

Plowed many of times with snow on the ground. Good way to put Mother Natures nitrogen down. Usually plowed until the ground got too slimmie, then wait again until the next morning.

Be back soon the 1000 is 2/3rds done. 1863 is readey to go mow and off to check out a 1650 tonight or tomorrow night.

My wife will be so happy!!

Yep Kentucky Ken drag me out from under the bed in about 3 days I should be healed!

Pops

 

[jhangartner]

Kissing cousins?

Seriuosly overloaded the ranger. She handled it well though.

Now I have some work to do. Good thing I am already ready for plow day. Don't know if either of these are coming along or not.

 

[ehall]

Where is a good source for those bronze PTO buttons?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Ed, try Madson's Service, click on the link above.

 

[sblunier]

Me too Kraig!!!

 

[rwilke]

Fellas,
I've got a couple of questions that I hope someone will shed some light on;

#1) Background: I've got a stubborn F/R hydro lever on my 125 that refuses to lift off of the shaft. I have removed the set screw and sprayed PB Blaster in the set screw hole and around the base with the hopes that it would loosen up - no go. I don't want to destroy it because I'd like to install it on my 127, which had a lever with a stripped-out set screw & was cut off. IF I was to put heat on the chromed cast-aluminum F/R hydro lever, I'm guessing it would pop/peel the chrome off of it quickly - not what I want to happen. Question: Does anyone have any good ideas on how to remove this stuck lever from the shaft without destroying it?

#2) Background: I noticed that some front PTO clutch rebuild KITS contain TWO triangle-shaped pressure springs. I have seen installed PTO clutches with two springs and some with only one spring. My Service Manual says, "Pressure spring located on pulley." Which indicates to me that there is only one spring.
Question: What is correct - one spring or two springs on the PTO clutch?

#3) Background: I have removed the front PTO clutch from my 127 and reassembled it with some better-but-not-new screws & nuts & friction disc. However, I don't have any of the three "friction disc springs" or also known as 'anti-rattle clips' to slip in between the non-drive side of the friction disc lugs and the clutch pulley cup. I know the clutch functioned without the spring clips in place but I don't know if it was hurting anything to not have them in.
Question: Should I order up some 'anti-rattle clips or just continue on and bolt it back together and run it without them?

Thanks in advance for any & all advice or opinions!

Ryan W

 

[kweaver]

Ryan -
#3 , I don't use anti-rattle springs. I never hear it over the exhaust.

#1 , I have the same problem. Heat wont help you there. My idea (but I'll just leave it on), is to take the shift rod loose underneath and raise it up out of the dash as far as possible then make a make shift slide hammer style of weight in two pieces that I can put around the shaft and slap it upward against the lever. If you can't come up with one I'll make you one.