Archive through April 05, 2011
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Greetings all and first time for me on this forum. I am a member of the Farmall Cub forum and now pleased to be on this one- looking for some thoughtful advice of course. I came to acquire a 128 cub cadet a couple years ago. Came with a 44" mowing deck but was not used for mowing for years, just pulling stuff around. I have used it on occasion for mowing, after I fanally got the deck adjusted properly, mainly for leaf grinding and heavy grass- like in the spring. The big 1948 Cub (unrestored, working Cub) does a great job with a big 60" belly deck for regular mowing but is about all that HP can handle. I really want to convert a good deal of my mowing to the Cub Cadet. BUt I guess enough of the history and onto the problemo...
Can't keep it running. Started actually last fall in which it would run for several minutes then just die. Each subsequent start it would run for less and less time. This is regarless of throttle postion. Figured fuel issue and waited till winter to poke around with it. Couple months ago a mechanic friend took the carb off and gave it a total work over, cleaning job, but no new parts. Reinstalled and it started right up and after a few minutes died. Same pattern. Someone else suggested electrical. So I replaced a condenser unit coming off the coil, new plug (old one looked like it was lucky to have any spark), new plug/coil wire and new points. After getting those points adjusted, which took some time, it seems to give good spark, and starts with ease but same problem. Just won't stay running. When I first took the ingnition wire off the coil there was some moisture under there. I took the coil into the house by the woodburner for a few days thinking perhaps if there was moisture down in it, it would dry. Although my experience with coils on cars is they work or they don't, could moisture in it cause this kind of problem? Not sure where to turn to next, except borrowing a trailer and hauling it to the dealer and let them have at it.
Worst part is the bigger Cub is also semi-torn apart with a over-heating issue. So I am dead in the water and the grass is coming. To pile it higher, a 3-week old newborn baby in the house with the 3-year old, taxes not done, and spring turkey around the corner
. Now I'm just complainin` a bit....
Any thoughts welcome and thanks.
Can't keep it running. Started actually last fall in which it would run for several minutes then just die. Each subsequent start it would run for less and less time. This is regarless of throttle postion. Figured fuel issue and waited till winter to poke around with it. Couple months ago a mechanic friend took the carb off and gave it a total work over, cleaning job, but no new parts. Reinstalled and it started right up and after a few minutes died. Same pattern. Someone else suggested electrical. So I replaced a condenser unit coming off the coil, new plug (old one looked like it was lucky to have any spark), new plug/coil wire and new points. After getting those points adjusted, which took some time, it seems to give good spark, and starts with ease but same problem. Just won't stay running. When I first took the ingnition wire off the coil there was some moisture under there. I took the coil into the house by the woodburner for a few days thinking perhaps if there was moisture down in it, it would dry. Although my experience with coils on cars is they work or they don't, could moisture in it cause this kind of problem? Not sure where to turn to next, except borrowing a trailer and hauling it to the dealer and let them have at it.
Worst part is the bigger Cub is also semi-torn apart with a over-heating issue. So I am dead in the water and the grass is coming. To pile it higher, a 3-week old newborn baby in the house with the 3-year old, taxes not done, and spring turkey around the corner
Any thoughts welcome and thanks.
David, quite a few K241's were made from K301 castings. That gave them a thicker cylinder wall. To make one into a 12 hp you'd bore it out and use a K301 crank, rod, piston, and rings. There are some interesting in-between combinations as well. Brian Miller's website has some information. http://gardentractorpullingtips.com/engine.htm Start about a quarter of the way down the page.
Andy "Mc",
WELCOME! Check the fuel flow to the carb. Sounds to me that it runing just enough to burn the fuel in the line. Remove the fuel line from the carb, remove gas cap and do you best "Big Bad Wolf" impression, and see if you can blow the line out.
WELCOME! Check the fuel flow to the carb. Sounds to me that it runing just enough to burn the fuel in the line. Remove the fuel line from the carb, remove gas cap and do you best "Big Bad Wolf" impression, and see if you can blow the line out.
David B.
Decks are measured blade tip to blade tip with them in line with one another.
Click the Parts Lookup button above and enter in the model number and it will give you parts diagrams and part numbers for everything.
Then you can order anything you need from one of the sponsors listed above.
Decks are measured blade tip to blade tip with them in line with one another.
Click the Parts Lookup button above and enter in the model number and it will give you parts diagrams and part numbers for everything.
Then you can order anything you need from one of the sponsors listed above.
Thanks much. It kinda spits and sputters for a couple seconds then goes. Sometimes gives a bit of sputter just before it quits, revs up again for several seconds then it really quits. Kinda the standard early warning when you know any minute it is going to die thing.
I did blow out the fuel line up into the tank with a compressor and the other way through the carb, before the carb was off and blew it out and all over after it was off for cleaning. But did not know there is a filter of sorts in the shut off valve, of which (the valve) is in bad shape. Like as in so bad it twisted off the first time I tried late last fall. Had to just drain the gas before I could blow it out since the valve is in the open position of course. Debated trying to take the tank off and try to clean it out and getting a new shut off valve assembly. But the tank straps/bolts don't look too good either, afraid they won't come off too easily. But I keep suspecting fuel too. Have not checked the vent hole in the gas cap either. Damn, I wish it wasn't almost midnight cause I want to go fiddle with it now. You have re-energized me again thinking it could be something relatively simple. I did see some crap in the tank...but have seen worse of course.
I am good at the Big bad Wolf impression- I need to do it occasionally on the Farmall Cub! Works every time.....tastes great...less filling.
I will see if I can get out there tomorrow after work. I will check back on this during the day tomorrow beforehand. Hmmm...taxes or work on Cadet...Cadet for sure.
Thanks, Andy
I did blow out the fuel line up into the tank with a compressor and the other way through the carb, before the carb was off and blew it out and all over after it was off for cleaning. But did not know there is a filter of sorts in the shut off valve, of which (the valve) is in bad shape. Like as in so bad it twisted off the first time I tried late last fall. Had to just drain the gas before I could blow it out since the valve is in the open position of course. Debated trying to take the tank off and try to clean it out and getting a new shut off valve assembly. But the tank straps/bolts don't look too good either, afraid they won't come off too easily. But I keep suspecting fuel too. Have not checked the vent hole in the gas cap either. Damn, I wish it wasn't almost midnight cause I want to go fiddle with it now. You have re-energized me again thinking it could be something relatively simple. I did see some crap in the tank...but have seen worse of course.
I am good at the Big bad Wolf impression- I need to do it occasionally on the Farmall Cub! Works every time.....tastes great...less filling.
I will see if I can get out there tomorrow after work. I will check back on this during the day tomorrow beforehand. Hmmm...taxes or work on Cadet...Cadet for sure.
Thanks, Andy
I'm a new and novice 149 owner. It came with a 42in mower deck which I attempted to use recently. The belt that runs from the clutch on the front of the engine to the mower deck kept coming off. I checked the archive for suggestions and am working on several different solutions. 1) I purchased an IH belt. 2) There was "slop" in the blade/pulleys - i.e. I could feel the blade move up and down when I applied pressure to it in a vertical direction. I took off the blade and removed the stamped metal housing and bearing. There didn't seem to be any play between the shaft and the bearing, so I'm not sure if I need to replace the bearing or not. Any suggestions? I thought about trying to see if I could remove any space (if there is any) between the ends of the bearing and the top and bottom halves of the bearing housing. Any recommnedations? Thanks so much.
ANDY - Welcome to IHCC.com. I think you've gotten good advice on your Cub Cadet. Reading your first post I was thinking the coil was bad since it was the only thing you hadn't replaced but the "sputtering" leads me to believe it's fuel starvation. A shorted coil will run for a few minutes and as it heats up the engine will die like you turned the key off, no sputtering.
I've never been around Cub's that much. Neighbor had an early Cub to mow his lawn with a 42" belly mower, Dad had a '57 LoBoy w/48" mower I think it was, then a 154 with I think it was a 60" mower. They do get a little short on power if the grass gets very long.
I think your over-heating problem is probaby sign an engine rebuild is coming up soon. Dad's LoBoy had the same symptoms. To do them "right" gets kinda expensive but they run for years & years afterwards.
I've never been around Cub's that much. Neighbor had an early Cub to mow his lawn with a 42" belly mower, Dad had a '57 LoBoy w/48" mower I think it was, then a 154 with I think it was a 60" mower. They do get a little short on power if the grass gets very long.
I think your over-heating problem is probaby sign an engine rebuild is coming up soon. Dad's LoBoy had the same symptoms. To do them "right" gets kinda expensive but they run for years & years afterwards.
Andy,
It seems that you removed the carb. and cleaned it but did not rebuild it. If it were me I would order a complete rebuild kit from one of the above sponsors. Take it apart and soak it in cleaner, rebuild it. It is well worth it to start your trouble shooting with a fresh carb and fresh gas. If that wasn't the problem in the end you will be glad that you rebuilt it anyway. good luck. Tim P.
It seems that you removed the carb. and cleaned it but did not rebuild it. If it were me I would order a complete rebuild kit from one of the above sponsors. Take it apart and soak it in cleaner, rebuild it. It is well worth it to start your trouble shooting with a fresh carb and fresh gas. If that wasn't the problem in the end you will be glad that you rebuilt it anyway. good luck. Tim P.
Hi Andy,
I agree it does sound like a low fuel flow or float adjustment. I think you should stay focused on that.
However I would not rule out the coil/condenser.
Your right most of the time a coil will or will not work. One test to see if if the coil is weak is if the spark is all yellow, a good spark will have some blue to mostly blue in it.
I agree it does sound like a low fuel flow or float adjustment. I think you should stay focused on that.
However I would not rule out the coil/condenser.
Your right most of the time a coil will or will not work. One test to see if if the coil is weak is if the spark is all yellow, a good spark will have some blue to mostly blue in it.
Andy-
Have you checked the engine for a mouse nest? If you blow good pressure around the head through the fins you'll see stuff come out if that's the case. If so, you would probably need to just pull the engine and clean it well. The tank might have rust too which could continue to block fuel flow.
Have you checked the engine for a mouse nest? If you blow good pressure around the head through the fins you'll see stuff come out if that's the case. If so, you would probably need to just pull the engine and clean it well. The tank might have rust too which could continue to block fuel flow.
thanks for all the tips on the 1650 overheating guys. After cleaning the points last night, it fired right up. It acutally runs pretty good, but I didn't run it long enough to get it hot. It appears there is only one bolt holding the engine in. Tin cover over the head is missing, which may contribute to the overheating. I think I may have one though. I'm going to pull the motor and clean it and do the cradle mod while its out. which is better, solid mounts or new rubber mounts? Also, do the 16hp kohlers have balance gears? If so, I'll probably pull them will the motor is out. trunnion feels like it needs work, lights don't work, front axle is loose, etc. Another project to keep me busy.
MIKE - the cooling shroud over the head is VERY important to prevent over heating. And the 16 hp Kohler has ten head bolts/studs and is different than the 10/12/14 HP version with only nine, they don't interchange without modification. Hope your oil pan bolts that mount the engine to the cradle aren't stripped causing the missing bolts.
Most people do the cradle mod and go with new rubber mounts. The Parts Look Up above doesn't show ANY balance gears in the 1650 engine but not having ever been inside a K341 or around a 1650 I don't know for sure if they do or Don't have gears.
Most people do the cradle mod and go with new rubber mounts. The Parts Look Up above doesn't show ANY balance gears in the 1650 engine but not having ever been inside a K341 or around a 1650 I don't know for sure if they do or Don't have gears.
proessler
Well-known member
Frank Schmitz , Ask diesel Question in CCC/MTD forum section...
TOM - Did you see "EWC" stamped in the rim around the valve stem hole anywhere? And another "EWC" on the "convex" side of the center disc?
I know K&H, French & Hecht could make those small 12" dia rims but I've NEVER seen one.
I'm going to make an educated guess that wheel NEVER was exposed to CaCl..
I know K&H, French & Hecht could make those small 12" dia rims but I've NEVER seen one.
I'm going to make an educated guess that wheel NEVER was exposed to CaCl..
Randy F,
Check the small idler pulleys up front on your mule drive to make sure they spin smoothly and are not loose/worn out. Your deck bearing sounds fine, sometimes they get a little loose in the stamped steel cup holder. That can be fixed by taking the cups to an anvil and hitting the bottom of the cup with a hammer a couple times. Also check the bolt tabs and flanges to make sure they are flat. Make sure the three blades all spin freely as well.
Make sure belt is installed correctly and the tension is adjusted per the operator's manual and make sure the belt isn't touching anything other then the pulleys. Hope this helps.
Check the small idler pulleys up front on your mule drive to make sure they spin smoothly and are not loose/worn out. Your deck bearing sounds fine, sometimes they get a little loose in the stamped steel cup holder. That can be fixed by taking the cups to an anvil and hitting the bottom of the cup with a hammer a couple times. Also check the bolt tabs and flanges to make sure they are flat. Make sure the three blades all spin freely as well.
Make sure belt is installed correctly and the tension is adjusted per the operator's manual and make sure the belt isn't touching anything other then the pulleys. Hope this helps.
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