Archive through April 05, 2007

[eford]

Ed,
Little late but I don't read everyday and usually go to sleep before I get to go online, 3rd shift. About your loader, my case tractors are hydraulically driven and have the pump bolted directly to the block on what would be the front of the engine on a cub, case has the engine mounted reverse. I'm almost positive that if you were to get a case pump bracket and corresponding love-joy coupler you could mount the pump direct to the front of the engine. Only go this route if you want the pump spinning all the time the engine is running. I have gone over plans in my head but not broken out the tape and done some measuring. I'll take measurements if you'd like and can then compare them to your cub block.
Glad it's a 4-day weekend, not in any shape to drive at the moment

 

[kmcconaughey]

Mitchell, now that's a weird one! Good to hear that you have figured it out.

 

[digger]

Ok, I said to myself, Self, I wonder if anyone clicked the parts lookup button above That MTD gave to us to use to save time and money for Cub guys to buy parts. And guess what I found in less than one minute!

BTW, thanks for your info too Myron.

 

[eford]

Charlie quit doing things the easy way!

 

[bleyland]

The local Cub Cadet dealer thinks that the center deck pulley might have "wallowed out", because the shaft doesn't seem to move at all. Its the pulley that's wobbling around.

 

[bleyland]

Kraig,

I have no EXTENSION SPRING on the left front pulley (as you're looking at it).

I have bolts on both sides.

Maybe over the years, this caused too much tension on the deck's center pulley... warping it?

 

[bleyland]

Fortunately, I also inherited a Model 86 Cub... which has no engine or deck... but DOES have the extension spring assembly!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Bob, or the previous owner used it at one time with the rear tiller which required that the spring be removed and the mule drive tension pulley be adjusted with a bolt.

 

[mbounds]

Charlie....Several years ago, when I discovered the Navistar International source, it was because those compression sleeves were NLA from Cub Cadet at the time, as I recall. BTW the Navistar ones only cost about $0.80 or $0.90 cents, or so, each. It's been a while since I had to buy them so the price may have changed a bit....

Myron B

 

[lbaker]

Ryan- I installed the gas line directly into the carb and tighted the nut. There was not a compression ring on the motor I took out so went without. No leakage, works fine. I recalled Myron mentioned those earlier is use with the points cover also.

 

[mgonitzke]

Myron/Charlie/Ryan-

Those compression sleeves are also available from any small engine shop that carries Kohler parts, I bought some from one a few years ago.

 

[rbedell]

Mitchell G:

Well, I was going to mention the Shaft Pin to the Charge Pump Rotor, only after the pressure measurement. Since you have already progressed to that step, here is a diagram of the Charge Pump.

I would suggest that you try obtaining just the pin. If that is NLA, then obtain the Kit as indicated.

I think you hit the Lottery on this one. It is rare that the Rotor Pin would break or crack.

 

[eford]

How many times can you rebuild an engine if you sleeve the cylinder? Unlimited or is there a 'breaking' point at which you must stop.
Talking about the k series cast iron kohlers

 

[kmcconaughey]

Earl, not quite the answer you were looking for but yes, there is a breaking point.

 

[digger]

Kraig,
WHAT! The guy just wanted to check the cam end play!

 

[sblunier]

Bob L.

If the engine does not pull down, yet the implement will not work as it should and there is no immediate cause look for a broken finger on the PTO spring.

I had this very thing happen with similar results a few years ago. Broken "ear" on the end of the triangle shaped spring was just enough reduction is tension on the clutch disk to cause it to work fine in light grass, but bog way down (with no loss of engine power/rpm) in heavy grass.

 

[sblunier]

Looks like it's going to be a busy week before PD......USPS has my engine parts "lost in space" somewhere, or at least their taking their own sweet time with them.... If all goes well, I'll see them on the front porch tomorrow afternoon and the Briggs will be back in the action by Sat. night.

If not, I've got an old pedal tractor laying around, I'll put the pedals and chain out of it in the 582 and Steven III can pedal his way down the furrow........don't think so.......

 

[rwilke]

Charlie P.,
"...wanted to check cam end play."

That's a good one!

Kraig McC.,
"...there is an end point." -- Isn't THAT the truth!

Matt G. / Myron B. / Charlie P. / Lyle B.,
THANKS TO ALL OF YA FOR THE INPUT AND EDUCATION REGARDING MY FUEL LINE "SLEEVE" QUESTION!

As a matter of fact, I had looked it up on the MTD link & located the, #94; 'Sleeve, Fuel Line' part, but............WHO CALLS A COMPRESSION RING A SLEEVE!!?? I thought part #94 MUST be something else....so I screwed up...I'll take my punishment now...

Ow, Ow, OWWWW!

I must also confess, I did stop at my local CC dealer earlier this week, but they (again) told me, "I can't help you, Sir. I suggest you buy one of our tractors by the front door." This is the very reason why I HATE to stop there - all they want to do is sell me a new tractor. They NEVER seem to want to help/sell me any parts.

Bottomline: I will determine where my nearest Navistar International dealer, and with "P/N #144526-H1, Sleeve, Fuel Line" in hand pay them a visit -or- I'll try to contact one of the sponsors listed at the top of the page for their assistance.

Fellas, Thanks again for all the help (and the ribbing)!

Ryan W

 

[rwilke]

Fellas,
As I continue to get better acquainted with using the MTD parts finder link,

I was looking at the exhaust parts for my K301.

From what I could determine, there is an exhaust elbow lock nut (#1) that secures the exhaust muffler tube (#131) to the engine block. On the other end of the tube, a muffler clamp (#IH-681797-C1) secures the tube to the exhaust muffler (#130) via the compression generated by tightening a 1.25" long, 3/8" x 16 bolt with a square nut. That's all Fine & Good. What about a gasket at that compression joint?
Does anyone use any type of gasket at the clamped muffler/tube joint?

I tried HI-TEMP RTV silicone, but it didn't last too long. Anybody with a better suggestion?

Thanks in Advance! Ryan W

 

[jwalker]

Okay, havent posted back on the 1250 with hydro lift,trans and front ports but the guy ahead of me was a no show so I got it! Paid 250, may have been to much but couldn't resist(this suckers big and heavy I'm not!)Got it home, dropped a battery in, poured gas in the side of the carb and it fired on the 4th revolution.
Question: The heat sheild around the muffler is in bad shape and makes a God awful racket, do I need it (IH put it there for a reason) or can I loose it.
Thanks Joe