Archive through April 05, 2007

[bleyland]

Wow. Thanks for the photos. Yes, I understood those to be the pulleys to oil.

I may have over-greased the spindles last season, as some grease ended up on the old deck belt.

I thoroughly cleaned the outside of the spindles and all pulleys when I replaced the belt.

 

[bleyland]

Myron, yes the deck tensioner pulley arm is free. The deck belt is taut.

 

[kweaver]

Have you got grease on the current deck belt or blade belt ?

 

[bleyland]

No grease on the belts.

Last time I ran the mower, and the belts were turning so slow... so was the PTO. It wasn't like the drive belt was slipping on the PTO.

 

[kweaver]

I'd suggest pulling the belt off the spindles and seeing if everything from the mule drive to the blades turns freely by hand and see if you notice any little "bumps" as you turn them to see if there are any bad bearings.

 

[kweaver]

PTO may be loose on the crank, or time for rebuild.

Also check the PTO button gap. You may not have set it back right when you changed belts. It may be trying to disengage the PTO a little.

 

[bleyland]

No bumps when the belt was being replaced this week.

Checking and oiling now. And charging the battery.

 

[mgargac]

I took all the suggestions. Thanks everyone. I checked the relief/check valves. Everything appears to be in compliance with my faulty 149 hydro. I have not put a gauge on, but I am pretty sure there is no pressure. If the charge pump is not working, do I pull it out? Should I look for another one or rebuild it?

Was looking forward to actually mowing grass after being gone for two years. This is starting to PMO.

 

[digger]

Mitchell G.
Pictures would be nice, You might have missed something we could see.
Springs,bends,worn pieces. It's really hard to believe the hydro pump is shot.

 

[kmcconaughey]

I'm still thinking sheared spirol pin.... Mitchell, with the engine OFF put a screw driver in the hole through the output shaft of the hydro to prevent it from turning while you try to turn the driveshaft by hand and see if there is ANY play between the two.

 

[mgargac]

Kraig, the driveshaft is spinning correctly & I have checked the back output shaft while the engine is running all all appears to be OK.

will try to take some pics.

If it is the pump, how difficult is it to pull out, rebuild?

 

[dfrisk]

BOB - Over-greasing the spindle bearings will cause the mower to pull very hard. The excess grease normally goes out thru the bottom seal in operation....not sure how You got grease on the deck belt. Quickest way to check for the exact problem is to park the tractor/mower someplace in the open at a medium idle and throw the mower deck/PTO into engagement while watching the PTO drive pulley on the front of the engine come up to speed and the mule drive belt & spindles on the mower also. Also a good way to check the engine governor response as well. Don't get too close and get Your toes under the deck while looking..and don't stick Your hands/fingers anywhere except to return the PTO lever to the disengaged postion after You find the problem..You should be able to inspect properly from 3-4 feet away from Your tractor/mower. Everything should jump into operation quickly and pull the engine RPM down, then the engine speed will pick back up. The idler pulleys on the mule drive don't really add that much drag to the mower....I've had bearings fail and the spinning pulley wore all the way thru the inner bearing race and half way thru the mounting bolt before I saw the sparks flying under the tractor. The mower still mowed fine and the engine pulled well. The bearings are sealed so putting additional oil on them may quiet them some but if they're worn they will get noisy again quickly and the oil will collect dust/dirt and kill them faster.
Kinda hard to diagnose from this far away but if the mower mows fine at first then the engine speed & load stays the same and the mower slows it almost sounds like a heat effected adjustment problem on the PTO clutch. A simple adjustment of the turnbuckle on the rod between Your PTO engagement lever and the lever up by the PTO itself may fix that.

 

[bleyland]

MIDDLE SPINDLE is LOOSE?
========================

The 2 smaller deck spindles are rock solid with no wobble. The middle big spindle has a good amount of give to it... you can wobble it around... although the top and bottom nuts are tight. Maybe it's worn out, like the old old one that I replaced a few years back?

The deck belt running to the PTO is whipping all over the place... it's practically a blur.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Mitchell, and it will even if the spirol pin is sheared due to friction......., however, when the hydro pump is under load the coupling where the spirol pin is, will then slip. Have you checked it under load or as I described below? It is extremely rare for the pump itself to fail, it is however quite common for the spirol pin to shear and all the symptoms point to sheared spirol pin.

 

[dfrisk]

BOB - Sounds like something is not right in the middle spindle. The bottom nut just secures the blade to the spindle....the bolt with the zerk in the head on top holds the double pulley to the spindle shaft and with shims or washers adjusts the preload of the bearings. There is a key in the pulley & shaft so the pulley can drive the shaft. If the pulley wobbles around very much at all You'll wear the bore out of the pulley and wear the OD of the spindle itself and short of welding the pulley to the shaft have to replace both parts. There's spacers inside the bearing housing on both the ID of the housing and the OD of the spindle shaft and those have to be adjusted closely so there's just a very few thousandth's of clearance in the bearings....just like a wheel bearing in a car. If the pulley wobbles on the shaft that could cause the mule drive belt to whip back & forth but even when adjusted properly the belt on My 38" deck (very similar to Your 42") whips back & forth about 2-3 inches between the double pulley and the idlers. You don't want that belt really any tighter than necessary or it puts huge stress on the pilot bearing of the PTO clutch, the two idlers, and the center spindle bearings of the deck.

 

[rwilke]

Lyle B. / Brian B.,

Were either of you fellas able to locate a part # or a supplier for those rubber compression rings located on the steel fuel line ends between the sediment bowl and the carb on your 127s?

Now I'm looking for some and I'm unable to locate any!

Thanks in advance for any & all help!
Ryan W

 

[digger]

Ryan,
You mean to tell me that non of the sponsors above have any?
If they don't, maybe we don't need'um! Or have you called or emailed them?

 

[mbounds]

Charlie: TC-113 says that carb fuel line on tractors with Serial Nmber 315299 & below use the following compression sleeve: IH-144526-H1 found at your local Navistar International dealer.

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom

 

[mgargac]

Ok guys, found the problem on my 149 hyrdo with no pressure. Took apart the pump assembly. The pump rotor specifically the pin assembly was cracked in multiple locations. Only thing I can think of to cause it, was about 4 months before I left for Iraq in 2005, I replaced a spirol pin, and the hitting may have cracked it. Kinda weird since I plowed snow this past winter. Must have been its time to go. Gotta find a replacment now.

thanks for all the help, I will post a picture when I can.

 

[bcorn]

Mitchell: Sorry got here late, can you see the pin behind the leather connection. Pretty easy to miss that one. If this has been asked and answered I apologize.

Lot of time I skim thru the post and usually miss something!

Pops