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Archive through April 04, 2013
- Thread starter vthomley
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
rvanmersbergen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2007
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- 154
- displayname
- Ray Van Mersbergen
Harry/Branden I'm thinkin all NF came with glass fuel shut-off and metal line...7hp looks a little different than 10-14 hp but metal all the same
Wayne- I have a ported pump ,plus that pump that you speak of to run power steering on any Cub.I just have so much in the works that I don`t have time now to do. I do have work for a few winters with what I would like to do to my Cubs.I just have to make up my mind and then take pictures for this site.I do have my ducks all sitting up and ready lol.
harry _ not many 100 pointers over here; I have made some changes to Cubs that I would never go back.This hobby has to remain fun or I`am done !
harry _ not many 100 pointers over here; I have made some changes to Cubs that I would never go back.This hobby has to remain fun or I`am done !
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2005
- Messages
- 812
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- Binder 1650
1650 update: Got the engine back in the tractor and bolted down. First time the engine has been bolted down since I bought the tractor.
I've got an interesting comparision going at the same time because as I work the 1650 engine reinstall, I'm also working the 126 engine install.
Tonight's effort on putting the engine in the 1650 was fairly tedious. We'll see how easier/harder it is putting an engine in the 126 vs a QL tractor.
It really helps having my teenage boys along for the ride. More than two hands are a definite plus - and the boys are learning how to turn a wrench too.
I've got an interesting comparision going at the same time because as I work the 1650 engine reinstall, I'm also working the 126 engine install.
Tonight's effort on putting the engine in the 1650 was fairly tedious. We'll see how easier/harder it is putting an engine in the 126 vs a QL tractor.
It really helps having my teenage boys along for the ride. More than two hands are a definite plus - and the boys are learning how to turn a wrench too.
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,377
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Bill J - sure glad you're making progress there. It might still run this weekend at the rate you're going. There is no question the solid mount engine is much easier to install than the ISO-mount versions. The front bolts are still the toughest to get at working thru the axle channel. Let us know what type of wrench or rachett you use on the front bolts. Offset, open end, 1/4 drive rachett. I keep hoping someone is gonna identify the "perfect tool" to use. Of course if you don't have the axle in the channel then it's really easy to get at the bolts and holes.
Bill J.-
I believe most guys on here can have an engine installed in 10 minutes or less. I use a punch to align the rear two holes to the frame (nf, wf) or to the rail in QLs. I insert the punch through the mounting hole into the bolt hole of the pan and give it a slight twirl. This usually allows you to start both rear bolts with fingers easily. Leave them loose and snake the front two bolts into their holes (tractor jacked up of course) and finger start them. On QLs I use a 9/16" socket because the bolts heads are recessed somewhat because of the rail system. WFs and NFs are easier and only require a wrench after starting with the fingers. I use a gearwrench here and after all four are started then torque away. If you find the front two hard to align you can tweek or move the engine with the other hand slightly and that usually aligns things right up so the bolts will start. Always make sure you have the bolts properly started with your fingers too. If cross threaded the wrench will just make matters worse and it'll be helicoil time for the pan.
I believe most guys on here can have an engine installed in 10 minutes or less. I use a punch to align the rear two holes to the frame (nf, wf) or to the rail in QLs. I insert the punch through the mounting hole into the bolt hole of the pan and give it a slight twirl. This usually allows you to start both rear bolts with fingers easily. Leave them loose and snake the front two bolts into their holes (tractor jacked up of course) and finger start them. On QLs I use a 9/16" socket because the bolts heads are recessed somewhat because of the rail system. WFs and NFs are easier and only require a wrench after starting with the fingers. I use a gearwrench here and after all four are started then torque away. If you find the front two hard to align you can tweek or move the engine with the other hand slightly and that usually aligns things right up so the bolts will start. Always make sure you have the bolts properly started with your fingers too. If cross threaded the wrench will just make matters worse and it'll be helicoil time for the pan.
Willie,
If that's what its doing I'd go ahead and pull the head and check for a blown gasket or loose carbon in between the valve seat. When they sit that carbon can loosen up and fall into stuff. If it puffs its getting some gas plus your plug was wet as you mentioned. If that isn't the issue it still doesn't hurt to throw a new gasket on and get all the carbon out of there anyway if you plan to use it much
If that's what its doing I'd go ahead and pull the head and check for a blown gasket or loose carbon in between the valve seat. When they sit that carbon can loosen up and fall into stuff. If it puffs its getting some gas plus your plug was wet as you mentioned. If that isn't the issue it still doesn't hurt to throw a new gasket on and get all the carbon out of there anyway if you plan to use it much
Terry, I believe the PTO body and the three throw out levers should be white.
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2005
- Messages
- 812
- displayname
- Binder 1650
Wayne S - Yes, I used a punch to align the holes. I had just bought a set of brass punches at TSC, so I felt pretty good about pulling the engine in line with them without fouling-up the threads. Still had to move the engine slightly and tilt it a touch to get a couple of the bolts started.
Harry B - I used a 9/16 x 1/4 drive socket to get the bolts in the front/through the axle clevis holes. Once I got everything started, I snugged all of them down and used a torque wrench on the rear ones - noted how much elbow I put on the wrench and then put a cheater on the 1/4 drive ratchet and tightened the front bolts to what felt like the same torque - if that's possible. Bottom line is - I'm glad I put a cast iron oil pan on this engine if nothing else to make stripping a bolt a little more of a challenge.
I think what makes the QL tractors be such a pain in the rectal aperture when servicing and/or removing/installing the engine is that they are such technically advanced/modern designed tractors with those hi-tech isolators, side covers and electronical pto gismo thingy. Just like the post IH Scout 800A automobiles, the more sophisticated the apparatus, the more difficult to work-on...
Having said that - when Momma says the fleet needs to be trimmed, the QL may go down the road first...
Harry B - I used a 9/16 x 1/4 drive socket to get the bolts in the front/through the axle clevis holes. Once I got everything started, I snugged all of them down and used a torque wrench on the rear ones - noted how much elbow I put on the wrench and then put a cheater on the 1/4 drive ratchet and tightened the front bolts to what felt like the same torque - if that's possible. Bottom line is - I'm glad I put a cast iron oil pan on this engine if nothing else to make stripping a bolt a little more of a challenge.
I think what makes the QL tractors be such a pain in the rectal aperture when servicing and/or removing/installing the engine is that they are such technically advanced/modern designed tractors with those hi-tech isolators, side covers and electronical pto gismo thingy. Just like the post IH Scout 800A automobiles, the more sophisticated the apparatus, the more difficult to work-on...
Having said that - when Momma says the fleet needs to be trimmed, the QL may go down the road first...
Don T
The last four numbers on a Delco Remy generator tag are the date code. The first number is the last number of the year, presumably 71 in your case, the second as far as I've decoded should be a letter corresponding to a month, are you sure it isn't a D which would make it April. In other words A=January, B= February, and so on. The last two numbers are the day of the month, in your case 23. If the 0 is actually a D, your's translates to a build date of April 23, 1971.
bob
The last four numbers on a Delco Remy generator tag are the date code. The first number is the last number of the year, presumably 71 in your case, the second as far as I've decoded should be a letter corresponding to a month, are you sure it isn't a D which would make it April. In other words A=January, B= February, and so on. The last two numbers are the day of the month, in your case 23. If the 0 is actually a D, your's translates to a build date of April 23, 1971.
bob
Ha Ha Richard-
I don't think HF even sells Gearwrench tools...do they??? The punch is one of my fathers tools and most of them are made in the good ole U S of A. I meant to mention since Don T. showed his roll pin punches that I got my set from Sears. I found them online and had them shipped to my door for under $25. I have always liked Craftsman but you need to be careful nowadays...Sears has a little "Chinese fever" too.
How was/is the show?
I don't think HF even sells Gearwrench tools...do they??? The punch is one of my fathers tools and most of them are made in the good ole U S of A. I meant to mention since Don T. showed his roll pin punches that I got my set from Sears. I found them online and had them shipped to my door for under $25. I have always liked Craftsman but you need to be careful nowadays...Sears has a little "Chinese fever" too.
How was/is the show?
