Shultzie,
Should be if you have all the parts.
Should be if you have all the parts.
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My new 1572 diesel
- Thread starter kshultz
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
We have the install manual ya know.
CLICK HERE
CLICK HERE
Yep, you gotta have this plate.
Same plate, according to the parts lookup.
Shultzie, that bracket will need to come off of the top of your differential.
Check the shaft that goes from the hydro output to the pto for wear. A few of mine had a lot of slop in the holes. That was a poor design in my opionion.
Check the shaft that goes from the hydro output to the pto for wear. A few of mine had a lot of slop in the holes. That was a poor design in my opionion.
mmasheris
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 8, 2006
- Messages
- 713
- displayname
- Michael A.Masheris
The rear plate is specific for CI or ALum rears.Check the spacers # 12 for fit inside # 11 if they are sloppy make new ones that are snug.and there is a belvile washer between the 11 part and housing.I get grade 8 threaded rod and seal with gray ultra permatex.Drain the rear and dry the bolt holes.They are prone to leak at the bottom bolts if not sealed .I just did my 1772 with PTO and 3 point.If you want the 3 point to float add 3'' of slot to the lift bar hole.It pushes to lift .If you don't add float the plow will push you out of the ground BTDT.Good LuckPS Aron has the back pto cover.
Well I finally got this finished up. Boy taking it off of the 982 was a breeze, but putting it back on the diesel was a chore. Fuel tank was in the way. Thanks to Charlie I had the install manual so I could refer to that after I screwed up several times.
I also replaced the glow plugs. It looks like the original glow plugs were still in according to the paint. It starts much better now.
I also replaced the glow plugs. It looks like the original glow plugs were still in according to the paint. It starts much better now.
Hey, I've been meaning to ask this for a long time, but I kept forgetting and it wasn't that big of a deal until last night.
I had this 60" deck and Cat 0 hitch on my 982 and both worked fine as far as lifting the deck. On this tractor it only raises maybe an inch off the ground if that. What's the deal? Last night I tried putting the disk on the back and the hitch wouldn't even go high enough to hook it up.
When it was on the 9 the deck raised about 4-5 inches. and the plow and disk raised up good. What could be the problem? Is there an adjustment I'm not seeing? Does this tractor have a shorter lift cylinder?
These pics are with the lift all the way up. Thanks!
I had this 60" deck and Cat 0 hitch on my 982 and both worked fine as far as lifting the deck. On this tractor it only raises maybe an inch off the ground if that. What's the deal? Last night I tried putting the disk on the back and the hitch wouldn't even go high enough to hook it up.
These pics are with the lift all the way up. Thanks!
Shultzie, any chance that the Spirol pins in the rockshaft are partially sheared?
mgonitzke
Well-known member
When the lift is all the way down, is the clevis pin for the 3-point lift bar perfectly centered in that hole in the side of the frame? I don't have a good picture of this, but I think you have the pins bassackwards. The one with the tab on it goes in the forward hole from the inside to connect the cylinder to the rockshaft, and the 3-point bar attaches to the back "normal" clevis pin.
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,826
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Matt is right, your cylinder and lift bar are not hooked up correctly.
Tab with stud: Stud goes in front and through the cylinder rod hole.
Headed pin: Pin goes in back, thought the opening in the side of the frame. Pin also connects lift bar for 3pt, rear hole on upside down "J" bracket off rockshaft.
Tab with stud: Stud goes in front and through the cylinder rod hole.
Headed pin: Pin goes in back, thought the opening in the side of the frame. Pin also connects lift bar for 3pt, rear hole on upside down "J" bracket off rockshaft.
