• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Loaders & Pumps....

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Don,

A larger lower (pump) pulley will make your pump run slower at all RPM's and you won't make as high of pressure as you do now. A SMALLER pump pulley will make it run at speeds over 3600 rpm if you rev the engine to 3600......you are best served by matching pump and PTO drive pulleys, or you run the risk of overspeeding the pump.
 
John,
Thanks for the link....

Seems like a quality valve. Italian made, beats a China part. And now for some reading.

Rick
 
Wow, it's funny what I can find with the control panel on my (newly relocated) website...links to my page. Loader looks good, Rick. Mine hasn't moved since 2011. It's still sitting in my parents barn, along with the other tractors my Dad doesn't use regularly. Long story short, I decided to take some rather extensive night classes. I'm busy 16 hours a day during the week until April 22nd, at which point I might have time to browse the forum again regularly.

Kraig was right, I logged in to update the link in my sig line...
happy.gif
 
Matt very good to see you post, its been a while, hope to see you back after night classes and thanks for your site update
 
Matt G,

Good to see your still kicken.
I understand the class thing. My wife has been going to college for as long as I've known her.
Had our 17th anniversary last year.

I think my pulley choice will be close. It is a 4" pulley, BUT is for multiple belt sizes, so the od over the belt is 3.75 compared to 4.375 over the belt at the PTO.
4.375/3.75=1.1666666
engine 3600x1.167=4200@ the pump (over speed by 200)
Don thinks 3/4 throttle is about all I'll need for normal loader use. I tend to agree.
3/4 x 4200= 3150 pump rpm @ 3/4 throttle.

It's max gpm rating is at 3600.
I'm pretty confident that this will be close to ideal for this pump.
The potential is there to go over it's max rpm rating, but if I set my governor just a little shy of 3600 it will be perfect.
 
I think I need to steal Don T's signature except 3 steps backwards 1 step forward.
In between delivering kids around in the soccer mom van, I have made progress.

Note to self: When getting ready to start welding make sure your brackets are oriented correctly....2 hours killed there....
Oh well, after a couple cans of engineering fluid, I moved onward. Here is the pump bracket at about 90% done. Some holes to drill and some cosmetic stuff.

Two bolts to pull the front bash guard / bumper and then pretty easy access and adjustments.

285117.jpg

285118.jpg
 
Rick Beem

Well now you see why I have that tag line . since I hardly ever listen and think there must be a better way to do something I tend to dream up something that is close but never correct. I like what you have done and the bottom picture the last part you added (bumper) will keep ground out of the pump area I bet. since I have only one belt adjuster bolt for the pump and two bolts on each side of the tractor frame I can remove the pump in a few minutes. I would use nylox nuts and lock washers because the pump vibrations will make the nuts move and the belt will slip. BTDT .

Your going to have a great loader ! great work .
worthy.gif
 
Uh, for once in my life I can say I got hosed...literally.

Here they are.
$322 out of the play fund which is now kaput. I still need to get the pressure hose and suction hoses made....I hope they kiss me first this time.
The swivel fittings are what killed me.
Note to self: If you buy a loader, make sure the hoses are good or it should be FREE!

I was going to splurge and get a professional paint job. Looks like the rattle cans are going to have to do the finish work!

285298.jpg
 
I'm not sure it is a good sign when there is more activity in the kitty cat thread than other areas of the sand box.
Maybe this should be called the "litter box".
1a_scratchhead.gif


Anyway this loader tractor project reminds me of my step brothers neighbor who is an Italian, like as in from Italy.
He is a Ferrari mechanic and explained this to me in a very fun to listen way. (Think that little fork truck character from the movie Cars)
"There is a no cheapa Ferrari... you buya a $7 tousand a dollar Ferrari ita gonna costa you a Tirty grand to a get a running and another a Twenty a five a grand to a make it a pretty"

So it goes with this project.
Started with a $10 tractor and a $350 loader. Current tally is $1924 and climbing.
SO...there isa no cheapa loader!
It's going to be sweet and basically all new, so I'm fairly comfortable with the price tag. BUT DANG!
Comments....moral support...requested and appreciated.
 
Rick, you are going to have one very nice loader/tractor when it's completed. My "free" (as in it was a gift) Original cost me around a grand to refurbish. Thanks for the laugh regarding the Italian accent. BTW, it was Luigi the Fiat 500 not Guido the fork lift that spoke. Oh, and my Allis Chalmers 620 loader needs new hoses and I've been afraid to even think about the cost, and your post has not helped me get over the fear...
icon_eek.gif


285307.jpg
 
Rick,
The loader work is looking real good. I am hoping to begin that process this summer.

If you would please tell me what size tubing you used for the sub-frame bolted under the tractor. The current tractor (other brand) with the loader has simple angle iron and I do not feel safe using that, I feel tubing is much stronger.
Thanks, Rich
 
So a Kraig, lika I wuza sayin'

You would think after watching Cars 87 times with the kids I would know that it was the talking Fiat. I would have been better off going to a Parker Hyd. store for the hoses. The implement I have them done at always does excellent work, but you get typical implement mark-up. Wish I still had access to hyd. equipment.
a_blink2.gif


Richard W.
The square tubing is 2"x2"x 1/8" wall, except for one piece on each side that the uprights bolt thru, these areas are 1/4" wall. All the flat stock is 1/4".
All the steel was new with a tab of about $160 fyi. I have plenty of oopsies to go in the inventory for the next project.
I am only using a Hobart 135, 110v wire welder with gas to do all this, so I am paying good attention to gussets and good geometry for good measure.
 
I finally cooled off enough to look at my receipt for the hydraulic hoses.
The swivel fittings were a large part of the bill. (One end on each hose is swivel)
$15.94 each X 12 = $191.28 for just the swivel fittings.
I'm not sure what better / cheaper options there are for this. My OEM stuff was pretty crusty.
Shop around, get a quote. I did not follow my own rules.
 
Rick B

I would hate to tell you how much $$$ the loader cost on my 129.just the loader 4 th and that does not cover the tires weights and the price I paid for the 129 .They can run into some real coin.
 
I think I am going to look at a johnson loader, any thing specific I should look for on it damage wise?


Also once your loaders are attached what is the total width of the unit??
 
Rick,Don,Doug going tommorrow morning to look at a loader that was on a 1450. I am going to put it on a 149 that should be no problem,, right?.

Besides the condition of the hoses what else should I look for??

he mentioned he had a set of duel spacers also,
 
Back
Top