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Little Big Tractors
- Thread starter gcoleman
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GLEN - The K301 has the 26 mm carb correct? Just a bit over 1 inch diameter, and the venturi is even smaller, so any air filter with connections over 1" should add negligible restriction.
That all said, I'd try to make the tubing from the air cleaner to the carb about 1-1/2" dia., a rubber radiator hose would work good, they have nice smooth bends and smooth ID's. Look at Kurt Smith's scale tractors, he's relocated the air cleaners on lots of them.
The filter element is the largest restriction in the inlet tract, and the larger filter element will reduce that.
That all said, I'd try to make the tubing from the air cleaner to the carb about 1-1/2" dia., a rubber radiator hose would work good, they have nice smooth bends and smooth ID's. Look at Kurt Smith's scale tractors, he's relocated the air cleaners on lots of them.
The filter element is the largest restriction in the inlet tract, and the larger filter element will reduce that.
To be honest Dennis, Im not sure on the exact dimensions of the carter carb on my kohler, however I believe 26mm is correct. And just to make sure I follow what youre saying (havent had my coffee yet lol) the larger of the two filter elements would be less restrictive than the smaller steel one on the JD? Im trying to get some dimensions in my head so that I can guesstimate if one of those units will even fit ontop of the heat shield with the hood closed.
The only issue I have with the plastic ones is that the inlets are on the same side which works against my future plan of putting the intake and exhaust on the correct (right side if youre sitting on it) and Im not sure Id have room to make a stack under the hood to relocate the inlet for the air cleaner. I have managed to find a couple of the glass bowl type precleaners that will look the part and be scaled back as they are for a couple older mowers and one for a farmall cub - B tractor.
The only issue I have with the plastic ones is that the inlets are on the same side which works against my future plan of putting the intake and exhaust on the correct (right side if youre sitting on it) and Im not sure Id have room to make a stack under the hood to relocate the inlet for the air cleaner. I have managed to find a couple of the glass bowl type precleaners that will look the part and be scaled back as they are for a couple older mowers and one for a farmall cub - B tractor.
Does anyone happen to have either air cleaner unit type and if so could I get the dimensions of them? I want to see if theyll fit under the hood or if I'll have to figure out a different mounting spot since I dont think its smart to park the air cleaner infront of the engine to be heated by the air coming off the block...hot air doenst bode well for good combustion. Least not that Im aware anyway lol
Good news, Ive found a couple of the plastic air cleaners and the dimensions for one off of a Jacobson and or Toro fairway mower. The body is 6" in diameter and 14" wide, and the average inlet diameter is 2". Some have the dust bowl pre cleaners on them, others have the rubber hoods with screens in them, I prefer the look of the dust bowl type as it closely resembles the big tractors air cleaner. The hood is close to 16" wide and Ive got a little over 7" from the heat shield to the top of the hood so itll be a tight fit, but, I should be able to stuff one in there. Any ideas on how to make an intake manifold for it (Im guessing either lightweight aluminum piping or a radiator hose I can heat bend?)
Also the air cleaner on a 1206 has the bowl ontop of a large cylinder, ontop of the smaller stack that runs through the hood (see pic below) Is that the filter or just a screen for debris collection? Looks like a big screen but Im not sure.
Also the air cleaner on a 1206 has the bowl ontop of a large cylinder, ontop of the smaller stack that runs through the hood (see pic below) Is that the filter or just a screen for debris collection? Looks like a big screen but Im not sure.
GLEN - The screen below the bowl is called a "Pre-Screener" and is actually separate from the bowl on top called the "Pre-Cleaner". The air goes thru the screen and enters the pre-cleaner from the underside where angled vanes cause the air to spin and centrifugal force causes the dust & debris to spiral out and fall into the bowl while the cleaner air goes down the tube into the filter.
The pre-cleaners were common on most tractors after the mid-1950's. IH had their fruit jar precleaners which bring HUGE money now days. And frankly, they didn't work that great. Both the M & Super H had them when new and Dad replaced the one on the SH with the Donaldson bowl type and frankly, it doesn't work much better. About the only time I ever saw any dirt in it was when I was harrowing in oats one day in the front 40 acre field. There was a 5-10 MPH breeze from the south and I was running in 4th gear, 6 to 6-1/2 MPH. It was so dusty going north I could barely see the end of the hood on the tractor and all that dust was boiling up around the engine. No problem going south. After I got done with the 40 acres, after about 3 hours, there was maybe 1/16th inch of dust in the bowl. The one on the M & 450 worked better because they were larger in diameter, almost as big as the one on that 1206, plus the bigger tractors burned more air, more centrifugal force.
The pre-cleaners were common on most tractors after the mid-1950's. IH had their fruit jar precleaners which bring HUGE money now days. And frankly, they didn't work that great. Both the M & Super H had them when new and Dad replaced the one on the SH with the Donaldson bowl type and frankly, it doesn't work much better. About the only time I ever saw any dirt in it was when I was harrowing in oats one day in the front 40 acre field. There was a 5-10 MPH breeze from the south and I was running in 4th gear, 6 to 6-1/2 MPH. It was so dusty going north I could barely see the end of the hood on the tractor and all that dust was boiling up around the engine. No problem going south. After I got done with the 40 acres, after about 3 hours, there was maybe 1/16th inch of dust in the bowl. The one on the M & 450 worked better because they were larger in diameter, almost as big as the one on that 1206, plus the bigger tractors burned more air, more centrifugal force.
Dennis, interesting, I bet I could make something like that even if its only aesthetic, though functionality would be nice. I usually have alot of dust in the dry spells during the summer and in the fall when Im cutting up all the downed leaves so I figure a little extra filter wouldnt hurt, plus I love the way it looks. Ive noticed alot of 1x86 models with the cabs that have the tall intakes with what looks like an EGR tube connecting the two together, thought it was interesting as not many of the 1*66/86's seem to have the stack type intakes, certainly be a very cool addition to my little big tractor. Brad D and the rest, its finally been named. Its been called "Bog Foot"
GLEN - The air cleaners with the tube or hose running to the exhaust stack are called "Aspirated air cleaners". They use exhaust gas flow to suck the dirt/debris out with the exhaust gases. I thought we put them on the later vintage 86-series from the factory, but everything was under the hood.
I've seen tens of thousands of 86-series FARMALLs, and t be honest, I've never seen one with an above the hood air intake. Been then about 99% of them were just off the assembly line. ;-)
I've seen tens of thousands of 86-series FARMALLs, and t be honest, I've never seen one with an above the hood air intake. Been then about 99% of them were just off the assembly line. ;-)
Got my V61's in from Miller Tire today, got em tubed and mounted, personally I love the way they look and they steer pretty nice too. I think it looks close to the 1206 Wheatland below.
<font size="-2">(Again, ignore my terrible bolt spacing...oh well.)</font>
<font size="-2">(Again, ignore my terrible bolt spacing...oh well.)</font>
proessler
Well-known member
Glen-- lookin'Good. If you're still in need of air filtration options, U may want to checkout ...Engineaire.com
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Glen-
That sure is a sharp looking tractor. A couple questions for you. <font size="-2">(Sorry if these were already covered and I missed it..)</font>
1) What color is that tractor painted? It's really growing on me!
2) What's the story behind the "bolts" in the front wheels?
That sure is a sharp looking tractor. A couple questions for you. <font size="-2">(Sorry if these were already covered and I missed it..)</font>
1) What color is that tractor painted? It's really growing on me!
2) What's the story behind the "bolts" in the front wheels?
Paul, thank you! I will check it out, Im trying to find out all I can about how they work and such so that if it comes down to it I can build one for it.
Art, its painted with the Rustoleum brand CAT yellow paint to match the old caterpillar equipment, I was going to use the IH federal yellow but when I compared rattle can caps (and pricetags) the cat was maybe one shade lighter to my eyes and it won, although it looks almost orange at dusk and near JD yellow in really bright sun, I wanted to paint it the CASE "power yellow" which is like a burnt mustard color but its hard to find in a rattle can and expensive when you do as I was only able to find it in IH dealers store sites.
The "eight lug" wheels are just 1/4"x20 bolts I painted black and put in the wheels (obviously the bolt pattern was eyeballed), basically I was looking at the 1466's and saw they had eight lug front wheels, and since mines a mini 1466 industrial, figured I'd ad an easy and cheap big tractor. I think it adds alot to it. Ive just finished a scaled back oval body muffler and am working on a HD air cleaner that will both be relocated to the correct side of the tractor via manifolds, but that and the 26x12 rear tire upgrade are to come in the future. (once the cub budget refills some haha). I went with the oversize V61's because I like the floater look, and, thats where I got the idea to name it Big Foot. Im thoroughly pleased with it so far
Art, its painted with the Rustoleum brand CAT yellow paint to match the old caterpillar equipment, I was going to use the IH federal yellow but when I compared rattle can caps (and pricetags) the cat was maybe one shade lighter to my eyes and it won, although it looks almost orange at dusk and near JD yellow in really bright sun, I wanted to paint it the CASE "power yellow" which is like a burnt mustard color but its hard to find in a rattle can and expensive when you do as I was only able to find it in IH dealers store sites.
The "eight lug" wheels are just 1/4"x20 bolts I painted black and put in the wheels (obviously the bolt pattern was eyeballed), basically I was looking at the 1466's and saw they had eight lug front wheels, and since mines a mini 1466 industrial, figured I'd ad an easy and cheap big tractor. I think it adds alot to it. Ive just finished a scaled back oval body muffler and am working on a HD air cleaner that will both be relocated to the correct side of the tractor via manifolds, but that and the 26x12 rear tire upgrade are to come in the future. (once the cub budget refills some haha). I went with the oversize V61's because I like the floater look, and, thats where I got the idea to name it Big Foot. Im thoroughly pleased with it so far
PAUL - I checked Enginaire out too. Thanks for the tip. I'm looking to replace the oil bath air cleaners on my two FARMALL's with dry pleated paper air cleaners. Unfortunately the air flow direction of an oil bath is COMPLETELY Opposite of the air flow in a dry type filter. ;-(
I've heard there's a place that some antique tractor guys get their oil bath cleaners converted to accept pleated paper elements but mostly for those green tractors..... and we all know those guys have WAY too much money to throw around so the prices are crazy high.
Denny's Carb Shop sells a conversion kit to replace the oil bath but it's just a longer tube with a pleated paper car element on top. I'd like to stick with something resembling the oil bath with a large element to reduce restriction. Engineaire makes something that would maybe fit but I'd have to run the air "backwards" through it. I'm afraid after the element got a little dirty & restricted the element would break and "DUST" my engines.
I suppose I should service the air cleaner on the Super H. I think I've done it ONCE in the 15 yrs it's been here. That sounds bad but I've only put about 200-250 hours on it in that time and most of those are pushing snow in winter when it's not dusty.
I've heard there's a place that some antique tractor guys get their oil bath cleaners converted to accept pleated paper elements but mostly for those green tractors..... and we all know those guys have WAY too much money to throw around so the prices are crazy high.
Denny's Carb Shop sells a conversion kit to replace the oil bath but it's just a longer tube with a pleated paper car element on top. I'd like to stick with something resembling the oil bath with a large element to reduce restriction. Engineaire makes something that would maybe fit but I'd have to run the air "backwards" through it. I'm afraid after the element got a little dirty & restricted the element would break and "DUST" my engines.
I suppose I should service the air cleaner on the Super H. I think I've done it ONCE in the 15 yrs it's been here. That sounds bad but I've only put about 200-250 hours on it in that time and most of those are pushing snow in winter when it's not dusty.
Got my hour meter in and installed and functioning today, I'll post pictures tomorrow, nothing special, just a blackface six digit analog meter mounted like the 169's have theirs, though it fills in the gap and the black accents the yellow well. My little tractor is really coming together well.
mpatterson
Well-known member
Look's pretty good Glen! What size did you end up putting on the front? The side walls look MUCH taller than I am used to seeing? Unless it is just because of the angle you took the picture from? Would like to see some shots of that puppy outside in the day light to see what it looks like with the V's on now. I am still questionable which I want - V's or a nice set of tri-ribs?
Mike, theyre 18x8.50-8 V61's, and I just replaced the 16x6.50-8 firestone tri rib tires I had on it, both are excellent tires, but the tri ribs tore up my constantly wet yard and I had to get something that would float over the turf better so I went with the oversize tires. They steer great and get awesome traction even in the literal swamp I took the 1466 mini through today. The tri ribs get excellent steer traction everywhere in every condition, even under load from a blade, they dont load up with mud too easy and it falls right out soon as you get moving, they make the steering effortless too because all the tractors weight is focused on the middle 1 1/4" wide center rib as its the only one that makes contact with the ground most of the time. It cuts through ice and snow very well also. I cant wait to try out the V61s this winter if it snows here in Maryland.
I eventually plan to add 26x12-12 tires in the rear and fill them, and add narrow frame spindles to my front end to lift the nose up just a little higher and add that big tractor look even more, unless I can come up with the adjustable tube type axle Dan Hoefler made on his 100 Hi-Crop.
I eventually plan to add 26x12-12 tires in the rear and fill them, and add narrow frame spindles to my front end to lift the nose up just a little higher and add that big tractor look even more, unless I can come up with the adjustable tube type axle Dan Hoefler made on his 100 Hi-Crop.
Heres the hour meter installed and working, got a whole 6/10'ths on it now! I almost think the vibration is messing with its ability to turn properly but thats me.
Also I made the much needed fuel filler neck for my tank since my hood doesnt open without taking the muffler off. Its just a piece of rubber hose cut to length and the pipe thread section off my old tank, with a piece of cast plumbing pipe inside it (screwed right on, and tight too!) Im not sure what to do with the color argument, either paint the cap black to match the clamp and the neck or paint the neck yellow and deal with sticky rubber forever lol.
Also I made the much needed fuel filler neck for my tank since my hood doesnt open without taking the muffler off. Its just a piece of rubber hose cut to length and the pipe thread section off my old tank, with a piece of cast plumbing pipe inside it (screwed right on, and tight too!) Im not sure what to do with the color argument, either paint the cap black to match the clamp and the neck or paint the neck yellow and deal with sticky rubber forever lol.
these tries would look friggin amazing on the 1466, supposedly theyre 26x12-12 TITANS but I doubt theyre that size, they look way too big in comparison to the loader tires in the background. They do match the tread pattern of this 1586 wheatland though. I like the floater look of the wheatlands, I think itd lend itself well to mine, even though Im not sure they made a 1466 industrial or a wheatland version from the factory. (in other words I dont know if this is custom modified or not)
Im also a fan of this style of rear rim, once Im in the position to make wheel inserts for the project, this will be the center type that I hope to install. It looks like a heavier cast center, smaller in diameter to accommodate a wider tire, with heavy bolt on tabs...Dennis, I think this may be your queue
Im also a fan of this style of rear rim, once Im in the position to make wheel inserts for the project, this will be the center type that I hope to install. It looks like a heavier cast center, smaller in diameter to accommodate a wider tire, with heavy bolt on tabs...Dennis, I think this may be your queue
GLEN - What do you want me to say about those rear rims? There were four sizes like that, 20" wide & 30" rim dia, and a 20" x 34" that took 23.1 X 30 & 23.1 X 34 tires. The 20" x 34" used the same cast wheel as the double bevel rim used for 18.4 X 34's but the 20" x 30" used the same cast center as the other two sizes, which were 21" x 32" for 24.5 X 32's, the size I think that 1566 has, and a 27" x 32" for use with 30.5 X 32 tires. They were REALLY low usage rims, I NEVER used ANY 27"x32" the three years I was involved with tires, rims, & wheels @ FARMALL, and one, maybe two pair of the 21" x 32" rims & matching tires. I'd use maybe 40-50 of the 20" x 34" rims a year with the matching tires, but the 20"x30" rims got REAL popular on 2+2's and I'd use maybe 100-120 a year. I only had one source for them, Electric Wheel in Quincy, IL, and they had to use an antiquated machine called a "Hydro-Pierce" to punch the holes in the rims to rivet the mallable iron mounting lugs to, which the machine was prone to breaking down, lead times were really long and regardless of when I ordered them something always happened and I got them the week AFTER I wanted them.
I turned in a Cost Savings Idea on those rims about 1980 that would have saved FARMALL about $200,000 a YEAR on those four rims. Another tractor company plant in Waterloo, IA switched to steel disc wheels instead of a similar designed wheel and I researched ALL the part numbers of the cast centers and dual wheel hubs and compared costs, used past years usage to get the cost savings. Hinsdale Engineering shot me down in FLAMES, said the steel disc wheels would not be strong enough to withstand the stress of fieldwork. BUT Stieger Tractor never had any problems with the BIG 4X4's they built for IH with steel disc wheels on IH dual wheel hubs, all of the NTPA tractor pullers running IH tractors used steel disc dual wheels with no problem. And now thirty years later ALL big farm tractors use steel disc wheels so there are NO strength problems. I just don't think they liked Me referencing the jd part numbers for the wheels.
That Titan tire looks like it might be an 18.4 X 16.1" tire, popular on rear steering axles on small combines, and the mini-rod pullers in NTPA use that size, think maybe the truck pullers too but they all seem to use Dick Cepek pulling tires. I did notice that Cepek makes a 26-12.00X12 "V" cut pulling tire, only $225 EACH.
Think I mentioned a month or so ago about wanting to make a pair of adjustable tread width rear rims/wheels for a CC. I was thinking of using at least 3/4" and maybe 1" thk steel plate for the center, weld 4 or 6 tabs onto the inside of the rim so I could bolt them to the center either inside or outside the center disc. The thick steel center would add weight, be very strong, never flex. I've just never sat down to figure out what the center line tread width would be with the different thicknesses.
I turned in a Cost Savings Idea on those rims about 1980 that would have saved FARMALL about $200,000 a YEAR on those four rims. Another tractor company plant in Waterloo, IA switched to steel disc wheels instead of a similar designed wheel and I researched ALL the part numbers of the cast centers and dual wheel hubs and compared costs, used past years usage to get the cost savings. Hinsdale Engineering shot me down in FLAMES, said the steel disc wheels would not be strong enough to withstand the stress of fieldwork. BUT Stieger Tractor never had any problems with the BIG 4X4's they built for IH with steel disc wheels on IH dual wheel hubs, all of the NTPA tractor pullers running IH tractors used steel disc dual wheels with no problem. And now thirty years later ALL big farm tractors use steel disc wheels so there are NO strength problems. I just don't think they liked Me referencing the jd part numbers for the wheels.
That Titan tire looks like it might be an 18.4 X 16.1" tire, popular on rear steering axles on small combines, and the mini-rod pullers in NTPA use that size, think maybe the truck pullers too but they all seem to use Dick Cepek pulling tires. I did notice that Cepek makes a 26-12.00X12 "V" cut pulling tire, only $225 EACH.
Think I mentioned a month or so ago about wanting to make a pair of adjustable tread width rear rims/wheels for a CC. I was thinking of using at least 3/4" and maybe 1" thk steel plate for the center, weld 4 or 6 tabs onto the inside of the rim so I could bolt them to the center either inside or outside the center disc. The thick steel center would add weight, be very strong, never flex. I've just never sat down to figure out what the center line tread width would be with the different thicknesses.
