IH Cub Cadet Pulling and Hot Rodding

[htoler]

Any thoughts on which is a better tire for pulling the Titan true power ot the Titan true power at,, I like the look of the lugs on the titans as to the Carlisle,, but I see carlisle make the titans..

Thanks

 

[jabram]

THanks for the comments on the blocks!

Joe

 

[wcompton]

Anyone have any idea if anyone's going to be at Little G selling pulling parts?

 

[sblunier]

Wyatt,

I will be picking up my clutch assembly from Julian (Midwest Super Cub) on the way up there..... 8:30-9:00AM Sat.

 

[rmunday]

Silly question... Not CC related...

Aren't the engines supposed to be turning CCW when viewed from the output shaft side?

I've got a Briggs horizontal for the step sons minibike that's turning CW (which is the wrong way). Never seen that before.

Sure was a shock when I turned the throttle!




(Message edited by rmunday on August 04, 2004)

 

[kweimann]

Rick,
Only 100% correct way is to look at the cooling fins on the flywheel to determine if the rotation is right. The fins should be "cupping" the air causing sufficient flow over the block and head. Kenny

 

[rmunday]

It's setup for CW rotation.

It's just that I'd never seen that before. I had always thought that they all turned CCW and thought everything was made for CCW rotation as well.

CW rotation is really bizarre when you're sitting on the mini bike and hit the gas expecting to go forward...

So now I have to either flip the engine around and use a jackshaft or see if the old guy will swap engines with me.

(Message edited by rmunday on August 05, 2004)

 

[dkirk]

There is a quarter scale tractor pull tomorrow in Eden, WI, at Northwinds Supper Club on Rt. 45, just South of Fond du Lac. Pulling begins at 12 Noon. All Cub enthusiasts in the nearby area are encouraged to come. I'm bringing my 1250 to see how well it will do. Will bring camera as well to capture all the Cub action.

 

[dvogt]

I'll be there to watch. was planning on pulling but broke my foot in a motorcycle accedent(lucky thats all I broke) and it had to be the clutch foot.

 

[jpiper]

Don!Sorry to hear about your clutch foot.Hope it doesn't take long to heal.

 

[wcompton]

Question for the pullers-
Anyone have any luck running the aluminum axle housings WITH the coarse spline axle shafts?

 

[dvogt]

Wyatt I've seen it done. never did it myself. although I was planning on till Travis came to the rescue with some fine spline parts

thanks John , looks like 4-6 weeks. I should be healed by the time the NQS season kicks off in October in Princeton Indiana

 

[rmunday]

Damn Don! Sorry to hear about that.

 

[still gt pulling with my turbo diesel 1782]

Wyatt,sure,some of the later QL and early(IH) 82 series had the aluminum axle housings with coarse splined axles . They work great ;-) PS;any luck yet on my emailed question to you??

 

[mmasheris]

Some pics from "Twister".Does the newer fine spline carrier fit in the cast iron 982 type hydros with out any mods?Just have to shim the bearings for the carrier?

(Message edited by mmasheris on August 08, 2004)

 

[wcompton]

Mike-
Fine spline carrier & axles swap no problem at all, just put mine together and am getting it ready for paint today. The biggest pain is grinding the heads off all the rivets to pop the ring gear off. My only suggestion you won't see anywhere is to use grade 10.9 METRIC M8 bolts and nuts. They're slightly larger than the 5/16" hardware some recommend and just makes more of a precision fit. Stake the threads on those bolts or safety wire them. Mine is torqued to 40 ft*lbs, locktite'd, and staked. I haven't greased the spiral bevel gears to make sure they're getting the right pattern, but there's no bind my first shot out with the old shim packs.

If you're going to do it I can take all the pictures you'll need. Maybe I should put it in a series of posts suited to the "not new, but better than OEM" list. The more we crank up these Cubs the more the mod will be needed.

 

[aaytay]

Wyatt-
I for one would LOVE to see some detailed photos on that mod!

Also wouldn't mind someone doing a "How-To" on a ring and pinion "grease pattern set-up" for us novices... <font size="-2">Novi???</font>
;-)

 

[still gt pulling with my turbo diesel 1782]

Wyatt,the 5/16" fasteners work just fine with 40+ hp so I see no need for the metric fasteners,actually. I have lots of first hand experience with the HD carrier and fine-spline set-up,and have never had any failures.
Instead of grease,we use prussian blue(available at any machine shop) to set our helical gear sets(ring gear/pinion). It is a grease type product with a blue dye that works super! I think most companies recommend using it. It probably aint in the CC shop manuals,but it certainly is in the ag tractor guides. It is very important to use to set the ring gear/pinion mesh properly.
Mike: The fine splines will drop right in;just hafta change the ring gear over from the old carrier.

 

[still gt pulling with my turbo diesel 1782]

More on the fine spline axles and carrier; the later model CC tractors( post 1990 with the plastic hoods) still used the fine spline setup also. However,the axles are larger diameter(30mm vs. 1"[25.4mm])so you will have problems with fitting them into the same axle housings,obviously. The early fine splines fit great(those from the CCC x82 series thru the 1050-2072 series with the steel 82 series style hoods) are what you want to locate. Not thinking of this fact,I recently sold a setup from a plastic hood model to a friend for use in his 1200;he had LOTS of extra work involved in fitting these into the 1" diameter axle housings.

 

[dkamp]

Okay, so I R'd TFM, and in reassembly of this K241, under installing the crankshaft bearing (not on the plate) there's a line that says something to the effect of:

"if your bearing utilizes a shield, install the shield to face INto the crankcase."

Note that I didn't see a procedure for installing the seal for said end of the block (PTO side), but I assume they intend for it to be installed after the crank is installed (whatever).

But on my bearing, the inner raceway has a relief on the OD of one side of the raceway... as if it's supposed to fit against a seal or something. The other side of the inner raceway is basic, standard, and flat.

Now, not seeing this beforehand, I installed the bearing with this relief facing IN, and the flat side facing the PTO face.

I've got a suspicion that the relief should've been facing out (towards the seal), but didn't see anything about it in the book.

What's up with these, and how should I have it set in there? Did Murphy pull a fast one on me?

DK