-
This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.
Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Steve - I just run the A-C C-72's on My 72 & 129 usually. Combine the little bit of blow-by to add some oil vapor and I can plug them up in a couple mowings if conditions are right. I'll have to try Your larger K-341 filters next time.
DAVE, Wyatt - I'd just like to figure out how to build a long rod stroker Kohler without breaking the bank. Nothing real radical, just a nice flat torque curve. The old K-241 is approaching 1200 hrs on the last rebuild and could use some freshening up or replacement.
DAVE, Wyatt - I'd just like to figure out how to build a long rod stroker Kohler without breaking the bank. Nothing real radical, just a nice flat torque curve. The old K-241 is approaching 1200 hrs on the last rebuild and could use some freshening up or replacement.
bpalsgrove
Member
- Joined
- Oct 25, 2002
- Messages
- 13
- displayname
- Bruce Palsgrove
K&N makes a filter for the Harley engine that is exactly the same size as the standard round filter paper element. All u have to do is remove the material on the one side of the filter to make it fit. Harley has it made with a gasket setup on one side so its not a round hole straight through like a paper element. The paper filter actualy flowed the same amount of air as the K&N filter did on the flowbench. Like was stated before the filter in my opinion is not the flow problem on Kohler carbs. For a stock engine the #30 carb flows enough air for 4000rpms its getting the mixture tweaked in thats the fun part. U might even be surprise at what the #26 can do for bottom end torque with the right caressing
I was a fan of the Miller cycle for years, but as I've aged I have begun to rely more on the Bud cycle. I've observed that the Bud cycle can run with some excellent horses and still have incredible torque. On special occasions I will go with the Macallan cycle. PLOW ON!
Oh, I still have examples of the Schwinn, Trek, and Santana cycles in my garage, which are part of the reason my cub cycle is 10 miles away at a buddy's farm.
(Message edited by cmccarty on January 27, 2004)
Oh, I still have examples of the Schwinn, Trek, and Santana cycles in my garage, which are part of the reason my cub cycle is 10 miles away at a buddy's farm.
(Message edited by cmccarty on January 27, 2004)
Miller cycle, Otto cycle, Atkinson cycle. Wow, it's nice to see someone putting their formal education to good use!
Funny thing is, I used to know what all those are, too. Too many years since thermo class I guess.
Enjoying the discussions, guys. Keep it up.
Funny thing is, I used to know what all those are, too. Too many years since thermo class I guess.
Enjoying the discussions, guys. Keep it up.
D
dvogt
Guest
I ran the deep KT17 style air cleaner with the side facing down cut out. there were no gains or loses in that to no air filter at all. so for whats there for in a stock engine is good. there was a kohler bulliton about air cleaner tubes to the flywheel that talked about carb icing in the winter . I don't know iof it was because of the cold air coming in or if it was because it could take in snow dust with it that caused the icing. Franks right about the cool air charge = more fuel.
Bruce you're right on the carbs. size & tuning them in is so important. you don't just throw them on & hope they work or they work good enough.
Bruce you're right on the carbs. size & tuning them in is so important. you don't just throw them on & hope they work or they work good enough.
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,826
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Don,
So for a stock Kohler up to 16hp the tall K-341/KT series air cleaner = clean air with almost no flow restriction?.?.?.....
Did you run the stock "short" K-241/301 filter by chance????? Any restriction there???
The tall ones will sure tollerate mowing dust and dirt better than the stock ones!!!!
So for a stock Kohler up to 16hp the tall K-341/KT series air cleaner = clean air with almost no flow restriction?.?.?.....
Did you run the stock "short" K-241/301 filter by chance????? Any restriction there???
The tall ones will sure tollerate mowing dust and dirt better than the stock ones!!!!
Don Vogt--
I am building a stocker with a K-361 Kohler OHV 18hp engine. I am milling in a breather on the valve cover to take care of the lack of proper lubrication to the valvetrain. To save money and time I bought a 16hp rebuild kit from Stens. I have heard that the 18hp had a specific rod that was stronger than the 16hp. Should I spend another $103 and get the Kohler brand rod for this engine? Any other comments or information on this engine concerning building it for stock pulling would be appreciated. Boring it .020" over, also.
I am building a stocker with a K-361 Kohler OHV 18hp engine. I am milling in a breather on the valve cover to take care of the lack of proper lubrication to the valvetrain. To save money and time I bought a 16hp rebuild kit from Stens. I have heard that the 18hp had a specific rod that was stronger than the 16hp. Should I spend another $103 and get the Kohler brand rod for this engine? Any other comments or information on this engine concerning building it for stock pulling would be appreciated. Boring it .020" over, also.
D
dvogt
Guest
Steve Ive never played with the short element on one but in a 10 or 12 I'd guess it would be fine . if you do anything on a 14 the tall one would be in order or keep good maintanance on the short one.
Greg with out a doubt go with the Kohler rod for the 18. the 18s like compression so you could mell the head,. if your teck guy isn't to sharp a adjustable cam gear works well so you can advance the cam timing
Terry theres flyers out on the Florida pull , I haven't looked at it . I'm not planning on going. you could drop Julian a e-mail on it.
Greg with out a doubt go with the Kohler rod for the 18. the 18s like compression so you could mell the head,. if your teck guy isn't to sharp a adjustable cam gear works well so you can advance the cam timing
Terry theres flyers out on the Florida pull , I haven't looked at it . I'm not planning on going. you could drop Julian a e-mail on it.
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,826
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Dave K.
Is there any way to incorporate a tach driver into your transistorized ignition module....possibly one that would allow a 4-6-8 cyl. automotive tach to be used???
I know the existing module eliminates the noise for the Tiny Tach etc, but was just curious about the possibilities for a true analog tach.
Is there any way to incorporate a tach driver into your transistorized ignition module....possibly one that would allow a 4-6-8 cyl. automotive tach to be used???
I know the existing module eliminates the noise for the Tiny Tach etc, but was just curious about the possibilities for a true analog tach.
Steve-
I'd think a motorcycle tach could be used, I think they're usually just spliced into from the CDI to the lead going to the coil, many including Yamaha just reference one wire going to a coil. My snowmobile might be like that too.
I'd think a motorcycle tach could be used, I think they're usually just spliced into from the CDI to the lead going to the coil, many including Yamaha just reference one wire going to a coil. My snowmobile might be like that too.
Steve,
It's a good idea and will give it some thought. What's needed is a signal generated every 180 degrees of crankshaft rotation so one could use a tach set up for a 4 cylinder 4-stroke engine, which are readily available. I'll talk to some of my electronics colleagues and see if something can be done.
It's a good idea and will give it some thought. What's needed is a signal generated every 180 degrees of crankshaft rotation so one could use a tach set up for a 4 cylinder 4-stroke engine, which are readily available. I'll talk to some of my electronics colleagues and see if something can be done.
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,826
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Dave,
I noticed in the last JC Whitney catalog that they have a 2-1/16" RV tach, 0-4000rpm, 4-6-8 cyl., about $36 IIRC
If you could get the electronics right, it would make a great gauge to add along side the others in a wideframe dash, much like you did with your machine.
Keep us posted and thanks for all of the "improvement" work!!!!
I noticed in the last JC Whitney catalog that they have a 2-1/16" RV tach, 0-4000rpm, 4-6-8 cyl., about $36 IIRC
If you could get the electronics right, it would make a great gauge to add along side the others in a wideframe dash, much like you did with your machine.
Keep us posted and thanks for all of the "improvement" work!!!!
Since the short airflow discussion, I've been thinking on a little graphic on Brian Miller's website (see http://members.aol.com/pullingtractor/valvecam.htm). How much can be gained by a little reworking the valves. I toyed around with a junk valve to see how easy I can grind and profile a valve (not the seat).
I guess the question is, on an engine working around and below 4000 RPM, is there anything gained by working the profile of the valve including the stem for airflow? Also, I see a 30 degree grind is recommended, does this hold true for the said RPM range?
I guess the question is, on an engine working around and below 4000 RPM, is there anything gained by working the profile of the valve including the stem for airflow? Also, I see a 30 degree grind is recommended, does this hold true for the said RPM range?
Similar threads
